.12 hammerhead (project speed)

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Why not use a smaller receiver battery pack like this.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...p?&I=LXFD88&P=0

I use a 110mah 4.8v in my 6 cell rigger with no trouble, and it has a standard and a micro servo.

Love what you guys are doing, I am planning on building a .12 to answer a challenge. A few guys that I work with said it would run 35 and never see 40. With the info I have gotten of this and other threads I thik I can do that with no trouble. I have all the hardware I need from my f/e boats all I need is a motor.

Do they make a 90 degree header for a side exhuast engine?
 
35-40 should be pretty easy to obtain. use the v937 prop, macs makes a 90 degree header and pipe for the engines.
 
Hey Don! That design it radical! You used my Anzai maru toe with the Hammer cut. Cool. That will hand rough water, no sweat. 110 mah, RunnerX. That isn't a lot. Nitros have a hard time getting the freq past the pipe with low amps. I will go check the amp rating on my receiver battery pack, and get back with you.

thanks for your interest. These babies are soooooooo fun to build.

Hammer
 
Hey RUNNERX! The NR 4QB by futaba that I'm using is 4.8V at 600mah.

I don't think I would feel safe with 110mah. What do you think, Tom?

Hammer
 
I run two quater scale and one stantard servo off of a 6v 800mah pack in gas cat. 110 may be small but the 270 on that link would be fine.
 
I have a Hitec 6V 270mah 4cell pack. My Kingcraft wouldn't pass the radio check with the engine idling. My radio check is standard, I believe. I take 25 paces from my boat with the transmitter antenna down. All functions should work at that distance as if the antenna was up. Had the same problems with my .90Hydro, .21 mono, and Pacer airboat. With the 6V 800mah mugen seki 5 cell that I use in my Kingcraft I can run all day with no problems. I think that there are easier ways to lose weight than gamble on batteries. They Sanyo 2 cell isn't much lighter than the 4QB anyway. Sorry that I don't have any weights for you to compare. Couldn't find any on the URL, that you gave or the Futaba URL for the 4QB.

RUNNERX! Don't want to sound like an old fart, but I am really worried about radio response. Not only that, but also leaky radio boxes and the sort. Any questions about safety while running RC is not acceptable to me. Here in Japan, we have to have a license to do RC, and I pay insurance with 1,000,000 dollars coverage that is mandatory. You have to prove that you are covered when you get your license renewed every two years. If you have an accident, they will cover you , but never again, so your racing days are over. I also don't want to mess up a rigger that I have spent several hours building over a few grams. It is probably a personal thing with me, but I am very careful when I run my boats. I never run if there are people in or near the water, I always do radio checks several times an outing, I go home if I even find one drop of moisture in my radio box, which is very seldom. Our club is very strict about frequency management. I don't run when there are beginners running. I never crack open a beer until I'm done with my after run maintainance.

I spend more time on preventive maintainance than I do running.

Do you get my character. Probably a little over board, and excessively worried, but for me it works.

By the way, I want to take the Hammerhead .12 out and work the bugs out of it first. I think it will do okay, as it is. I'm terrible at CAD, and almost as bad at Microsoft Paint. If some one out there wants to do them up in CAD mail me your address, and I will send you a copy of the plans by snail mail. I have to get them into inches, for they are in millimeters now. Will millimeters be okay?. Tom will you post them in your plans file, if someone so kindly accepts my offer.

Thanks all you guys for the inputs (RUNNERX and WSWATZELL)

Tom! How about some receiver battery opinions?

Don! I have everything now. I even got some special 30% nitro boat fuel for small engines made up for me. Also had a more user friendly shaft joint made for me. Lots lighter, smaller, tougher than that antique Octura with the narrow butt nut that hid itself underneath the flywheel rim, so I couldn't tighten it.

Hammer
 
Oh! Don! You miss my RED DEVIL? It's still there! I'm holding it in my arms like a lover ;D.

Hammer
 
Today I went out and ran the Kingcraft. I was hoping that the .12 would be ready for a spin, but I was waiting on a few parts. I went and picked up the last of the things I needed after running a few laps at the pond. And... It is FINISHED ;D.

I will go run it on Wednesday if I have time. If not, then next weekend.

Gonna attach some pics of it all finished.

Hammer
HH.12DONE.jpg
 
Pic of the rudder linkage. I used 2mm carbon rod for the push rod, and a clevise that can be attached to the rod with grub nuts.
HH.12RL.jpg
 
I have a 6V 600mah in my boat. Hammer, are you not using nicads?

I thought all nicads were 1.2V. How do you get 6V out of 4 nicad cells?

Also, I thought mah is for running time and volts is for power to the

receiver. I have the flat pack duratrax with 5 Sanyo KR600AEs. I would

be a little afraid of using 4 cells with my Futaba 3EGX. I agree with you

on the safty. I've seen 10# boats jump cars at no more than 40 to

50mph.

Don :)
 
I have a 4 cell in my .12 (NR 4QB9) it is 4.8V rechargable at 600mah. The Hitec I was talking about is a 5 cell. It is a lot smaller than the normal 5 cell, though. The 5 cell I use in my big boats is made by Mugen seki. It is 6V 800mah.

I would tend to agree with you on the mah vs. volts logic, but I'm speaking from experience. The low amp rechargables don't pass my radio checks with the engine running. Thanks Don!

Hammer
 
"WOW" Looking great! That new shaft joint looks much better.

I'd love to know how much weight is on the strut when it's resting

on the front sponsons without the fin.

Changed my mind-Wouldn't mind seeing those plans!

Don
 
I really like these batterys I have been having made for me by a battery shop here. They are 2/3 AA 600mah. You can get 2/3AAA @ 300mah. I use the AA 1800mah in my transmitter. You can get them online from: http://www.batterystation.com/

Here is a picture of mine

www.ad.kengarff.com/mikep/cf90/600.jpg

-MikeP
 
I'd love to show you the plans. Gotta find some one who will draw them up on CAD for me first.

Thanks for the info Mike!

Hammer
 
i might be able to do it for you hammer..... you should try delta cad..... worlds easiest cad!
 
Hey Mike,

Looks like you'r using the NIMH cells. My nicads are 17mm dia X 28mm.

If I used the 2/3AAA Nimh 300 or 370mah cells,(they are about 10mm

dia X 29mm) I could probably put a hump pack on one side of the

tube and help the weight distribution a bunch.
 
Sorry I gave you the wrong info on on of my packs, its a 600 not 800.

Hammer, no you don't sound like an old fart. In your case I would have over kill also. I just thought I might save you a little weight. Your pack looked like a 4 cell full sized AA, if that is what it is you could still use 2/3AA with the same mah. that way you have the same mah and volt in a smaller lighter size, or you could add a cell for more voltage.

Does this look like a good engine?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...p?&I=LXCKX7&P=7
 
I have a Hitec 6V 270mah 4cell pack. My Kingcraft wouldn't pass the radio check with the engine idling.

Hammer
Hammer When you said 6V/4cell above you really threw me. That's why I thought

you might not be using nicads. I'm sure you'r right about using the higher mah

batteries. That is power in a different form. In my 60 boat I use 5 KR1100s.

However, it sure would help my weight distribution if I could get away with

a 6V 370mah nimh pack in my 12. :D
 
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