New Project by MikeP

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I warm my epozy before mixing, it makes it thinner and the bubbles seem to come out better. I have even warmed them in the microwave, before mixing, when I'm in a hurry. ;)

Bart, best use for a pressure cooker that I have ever seen! B)
 
Hi Mike G,

Well now the ladies can't tell we aren't able to use a kitchen tool :p :p:LOL

Re the warming up , yea , warming up helps for the viscosity , haven't really tested it but im sure its a help .

Rich , whats a K tank ?

regards ,

Bart
 
Ok a little more experimenting. I think this would work well for making rigger cowlings. Foam plug, 1 coat of polyurethane varnish.
 
Did a little sanding with 180 to clean up some rough spots then

soak with epoxy and wipe with paper towel, 3 times.
 
Mike P. can you use plaster paris if not were can i get the super x plaster and do you wax the plug or not, after the mold is made do you wax it before you make a part. exellent info keep up the good work

Mike :D :D :D
 
PHM Racing said:
Mike P. can you use plaster paris if not were can i get the super x plaster and do you wax the plug or not, after the mold is made do you wax it before you make a part. exellent info keep up the good workMike :D :D :D
I am new to plaster stuff, but here is what I know.

Plaster doesn't stick to the foam, but it will stick to epoxy.

If you use mold release it gets on the plaster and you will have trouble sealing the plaster with epoxy.

PVA will desolve because of the water based plaster.

You need to carefully remove the plug and the outside dams after about 2 hours while the plaster is still green but firm, then let it dry out for a couple days.

Foam and 1 coat of polyurathane is what I was told works and it does.

I tried a piece of aluminum and it stuck to it.

Plaster o paris is too soft

The plaster, called ultrcal or hydrocal is gypsum cement and you can get it from art type shops. I found it at an art shop that does sculptures and castings. I had to buy a whole bag, it was 30.00 for 95 lbs.

After the mold is made you seal it with epoxy, wax it and spray it with PVA.

Mike
 
I have been trying to make the aluminum hardware out of molded CF. These 2 pieces are for the strut and rudder to mount to.
 
Plaster was a mess, so I came up with a 4 piece delron mold that could be held together in a vise
 
Hard as a rock and can be glued directly to the hull :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This boat project is turning out a little to heavy. It was designed to be a .21 rigger with a removable body.

On with plan "B" A molded FF .21.

The plug was hot wired from the kit tub sides, lasercut ply makes really nice hot wire templates, the burnt edges are really smooth.
 
Going to use a parting tray to separate the mold halves, it's made of pressed board then set on a wood frame.
 
The hole it cut about a 1/16" bigger than the plug then the gap is filled with bondo for a perfect fit.
 
Pull out the plug and sand the bondo flush with the board and seal it all with epoxy.
 
The top has lots of carbon, mat, tow, fiberglass, mostly pieces out of the scrap pile to get it really stiff. The top will will have the hatch openings cut out of the mold.
 
This is the mold flipped over with the parting board pulled off and new edges set up.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top