.12 hammerhead (project speed)

[Hammerhead]

Actually Don, the keel on the first one is two mm thick the ones on these two are only 1mm. Shouldn't change the wieght. The only reason I did it, is because it looks cooler and it also gives you another millimeter to adjust your strut.

Hammer

 

[Hammerhead]

Oh! By the way Don, The plans are in the making, Give Wade and I about 2-3 weeks, and they should be available in the free plans section. I'm thinking about charging like 2 bucks for the download that will be all donated to support intlwaters. Let me know what you think. If this will deter anyone from getting involved, I would avoid doing this.

My main purpose in making this available, is to get people involved.

Back to the keel The main purpose of the keel is to strengthen the lower decking and support the inside walls of the rear sponsons. They kind of act like a starting block for a 100m sprinter. Sorry! Bad analogy

In doing this in the past, I have put this so it would end up inside the sponson, and not visible when completed. I tried with my latest .90 hammerhead with the outside method. It looked really cool, so I will be designing my boats like this from now until I find a cooler way.

This boat also includes a bra for the rear. They have the same purpose as the keel , except they support the outer walls of the sponson. I started doing this with my CF .90 Hammerhead.

 

[_laxmasta2039]

whoa, your really are turning 'em out!!

i like the Paint Jobs, Green one especially. Hammer, i cant speak for anyone else, but i know for me the 2$ fee would deterr me from downloading the plans not because of the actual two bucks, but it'll a pain to get the money to you, especially if you're like me and arent old enough for a credit card.

Joe

 

[Hammerhead]

Oh! I wouldn't have you send the money to me, I would have you send it to Tom. But if it is really a hassle, we can give you the plans, but if you want a kit, your gonna have to pay for it.

Hammer

 

[Propjockey]

Lookin' good, Hammer!

On the paint, I used contact paper, like for lining shelves. Draw the pattern out with a 'Sharpie", cut it out with an X-acto and you have a very good mask. Stick it, paint and peel it off.

 

[Ron Olson]

Once we get the program from Wade we can figure out the cost for the kits and possibly work on hardware and engines to sell with it. The kit prices should be very reasonable. My sister is set up to take most plastic for those with it, Visa, MC and Discover.

 

[wswatzell]

I'm Just waiting on the mail now! ;D

 

[Hammerhead]

Fantastic Ron! We are almost there!

What kind of packaging are we looking at?

Will she be able to put prints of the instructions in the box and a label on it? Or will she just send us the cut stuff, for us to figure out.

I thought it would be really cool if people who wanted one could just give her a call and one would be cut up and shipped with the directions in the box.

There will be some stuff that the person getting the kit will have to find themselves, though. Like angle stock, 1mm or equivalant carbon sheeting, and dowel.

they are all listed in the directions, and will have references to places to purchase them. For example, the tanks that grim will make for them.

 

[Hammerhead]

Hey Wade and Ron! Don't wanna rush and make any mistakes, but the shop that said they wanted ten has been talkin' how they are gonna be getting some kits in, and the response to the video was amazing. Especially in the southern part of Japan.So, he bumped his order up to 20 kits, and we haven't even got everything together yet. Let's take our time and do it right, though. I wont be able to do much work on the directions until this weekend, but I should be able to finish them and edit some of the ones I have already sent Wade. You should have the package with the drawings in them tomorrow. Looks like the JMPBA is wanting to do an exhibition .12 race this coming May.

If it catches, this is going to be big

Hammer

 

[Propjockey]

See! I told ya the little riggers would be fun, didn't I? ;D

 

[Slideblues]

WOW!!!! Nice work Guy's!!!!!!

Its great when a idea comes together this fast,

Gene ;D

 

[Propjockey]

"I love it when a plan comes together." 8)

Make us proud, Hammer!

 

[MikeP]

And we saw it happen right here at International Waters!

Way to go Hammer!

-MikeP

 

[wswatzell]

HOLY COW!!!!!!!!!!!! 20. I WILL CALL RON TONIGHT TO LET KNOW. ;D

 

[Hammerhead]

I want to add this to my directions, compliments of MikeP.

I know a fellow boater that owns a body shop, he told me once that Rustoleum Industrial works good but it has to be Industrial. I haven't tried either one.

I suck at painting and never been happy with a paint job from a spray can. If you can remember the picture of my .12 is was finished with epoxy. I used pigment added to the epoxy for color, I used black and red. Here is a process that I used if anybody wants to try it. Mix good epoxy with lots of pigment, brush it on with a foam brush or paper towel ( I like the paper towel there cheap and you don't have to clean them). I do one side at a time so it will flow out flat. Lay it on smooth, wet sand it with 600 on a flat piece of wood or something, use 400 if you need to remove alot. but don't sand through just the high spots and keep doing this until it's flat. Usually 3 times will do but you can keep going until it's perfect. Careful on the edges they are the hardest to keep color on. As you get close to perfect on your last coat you finish sanding with 1200 or 2000. The finish will still be dull. To get the gloss rub epoxy on with a paper towel and let it sit a minute and then with a clean paper towel buff it like you would shoe polish. Don't touch it and let it dry, it will give you a nice glossy finish when its dry. I use the same process to finish CF when I have to sand on it. I just don't add color.

The benifits of this process are, it's cheap, I can do it my self, no over spray, it comes out perfect, each time you add a coat and block sand it you can keep the riding surfaces on the bottom sharp.

It sounds like alot of work but I have finished a couple of boats using Dupont Emron sprayed on at a body shop, by the time you spray and wet sand the good primer twice and after the Emron is shot, there is still rounded edges on the bottom of the hull that need to be wet sanded to sharpen them. Still alot of sanding. It coast almost a $100 in paint supplies.

I would like to have it with some URLs in it for suppliers though.

Hammer

 

[wswatzell]

;D ;D I got the plans in the mail today!! They look fine. I shouldn't have any problem drawing them up. I do have a question about the Hammer cut. I need 4 dimensions & I will be able to figure the cut easily.

A=??

B=??

C=??

D=??

Please excuse the bad drawing; I am doing this at home.

 

[wswatzell]

I have a little down time right now, so I started on getting the design into my computer. What do you think so far? This is just the tub assembly.

 

[Hammerhead]

Wow! That is trick! I see that that is about how far it would be completed with the instructions that I have supplied so far. I will be getting the rest of them for you tomorrow. I will get the measurements for the hammer-cut and send them in the mail with my first set of instructions tomorrow. I did a little editing to the word file you sent me today (the one where you added MikeP's finishing method). I will send it back to you to have a look at. I'm sure there will be more edits to come.

Thanks a lot Wade. I'm glad you around for this.

Hammer

 

[wswatzell]

No problem, this is fun! ;D

 

[Ron Olson]

I"M BAAAAAAAACK! Just got the 'puter home, don't even want to say how much it cost me! Had to stop here first.