Which Gas Cat to buy

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Hello everyone....
Jake that's terrible...was that the Orion 48" cat....I remember several months back you posting a thread about " this hobby is getting out of hand"....and I saw that cat and was in awe....please say its not that one....
Eddie...im watching the weather and hoping to be invited back to hang with you for a day...District 12 races start in April....its a long drive but worth every minute...I need someone to run with...by yourself is ok...but nothing to compare to and your Cat is hooked up...I may need a little nose weight.
John V...
I have telemetry capable on my radio and have been considering how to install the pickup for the rpm sensor...or is there a different method thats more straight forward...John...the prop started as a stock Zippkits 6717/3...only balanced/sharpened...
Then I got home and went to work on it...I reduced the diameter found a blade that was not inline with the others..did a back cut and the notch thing I see on many props ..then put it on the lathe and checked for absolute symetry ...then rebalance...and ofcourse sharpen...
Thanks for reply everyone...there is a new video on my youtube channel that was taken by my friend that came out with me...its just a different perspective.
 
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Robert, sounds like you are familiar with props, that's a good thing!. I ran a bob Austin 6717/3 505 on my conquest but that was maybe 5 years ago. someone maybe came up with a better prop?. as far as the tach goes I got a small tach off ebay, cant remember how much but it wasn't expensive at all. my opinion get that motor up to maybe 18k with a prop, pipe and strut combonation and see how it pulls through the corners and straight line. if you have the wrong prop it will upset the boat in the corners and you wont be happy. test, test, test. have fun
 
John...thanks for the reply.. So were talking like a Tiny Tach brand...or along those lines....red wire wraps around the spark plug lead type deal...has a permanently mounted battery and such..

Its so fun getting old...brain farts galore...John...it finally came to me and this is on order...should have it by the weekend...thanks...Oh..also..my knowledge about props is limited but growing..if it gets really technical thats when I really get interested...thanks for the tips and recommendations from above...
 

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yep, same tach I have, works great zip tie the tach inside the hull and attach the lead to the plug wire, if I remember right don't cut the wire to shorten it , I think it messes up the signal. go testing at the pond with someone who has a full prop box, try a few 2 and 3 blade props. preferred the 3 blade myself, I think it ran smoother in the corners. every conquest is different, just because the guy next to you has good luck with his prop doesn't mean it will work for you. its much easier to borrow props to test than buying a collection
 
When I was flying full size experimental aircraft...Tiny Tach was the popular brand...thats the brain fart I was talking about....don't cut the red wire....
 
Quick delivery...tach arrived...and installed...
 

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Hello everyone...
Well im starting to understand how many of us boating enthusiasts get so many props....
I just received a new prop from Chris @ Dasboata...2 blade ABC....the 3 blade shown is the first prop I used on the Aeromarine Cat...im really excited to give this a testing...
 

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yep, same tach I have, works great zip tie the tach inside the hull and attach the lead to the plug wire, if I remember right don't cut the wire to shorten it , I think it messes up the signal. go testing at the pond with someone who has a full prop box, try a few 2 and 3 blade props. preferred the 3 blade myself, I think it ran smoother in the corners. every conquest is different, just because the guy next to you has good luck with his prop doesn't mean it will work for you. its much easier to borrow props to test than buying a collection

You can shorten them if done right. If you cut it you loose the splice where it was converted to regular wire from coax. Cut that off and you have coax only until you cut it back and separate the center from the shield around it. You really only need the center wire if I remember right because I want to say the ground is just to kill the high tension signal it may discharge if not shielded. It really doesn't bother modern 2.4mhz stuff.
If you are good with coax and splicing it is actually a simple thing to shorten the coax and add the regular wire back onto it.
Cut open what they did and copy it if you need. Easy peezy stuff for ambitious modeler. Lol.
 
Daniel...
Yea doing coax work is simple stuff...but running two wires is is simpler than wiring modifications...also the TATER XX is on its way...again...hopefully I should have it by weeks end
 
Daniel...
Yea doing coax work is simple stuff...but running two wires is is simpler than wiring modifications...also the TATER XX is on its way...again...hopefully I should have it by weeks end

Nothing to do with one or two wires it is the huge roll of wire you are trying to get rid of. You need 6" not 6 feet.
 
Hello everyone...
Well with not much happening due to the situation at hand....I was inspecting the Conquest Cat and noticed the smallest ever so little imperfection in the stuffing tube. it started as a small crack in the epoxy joint...then turned into a complete removal of the stuffing tube...being we seem to have an abundance of time...I may as well make it right this time..kind of reminds me of a dentist visit....a simple cleaning becomes a major undertaking...its all good...I will update with a pic when done
 
well, better you found it now then blowing the drive tube and loosing your favorate prop, I have a few nice props at the bottom of my test pond. that's probilly how I got into the habit of buying 2 props at a time from bob Austin. just out grew my 48 prop carry case, need another one!
 
You had the actual 5/16" stuffing tube epoxied directly through the bottom ?

Usually you epoxy in a sleeve so the stuffing tube just slides through. That allows for movement so you can adjust the strut.

Best to glass from stringer to stringer to add strength or the flexing is going to continue to crack. Glass not strong enough by itself just gluing to only what is there.
 
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