TNT Racing Banshee 60 Official BUILD THREAD & Instruction

[Mario Johnston]

26. Set the 3D printed pin collars in place as shown. These will face inward and away from the bulkhead notches. These will need to be epoxied in place around their flanges. There are 2 collars for the left sponson, and 5 collars for the right sponson.




27. Identify the inner sponson frame as shown. Clamp this to one of your rails and set the inner section in place. Each bulkhead will slot into its designated location, the pin supports should align with their holes in the frame. Epoxy in place




Collars epoxied in place

 

[Mario Johnston]

28. The sponsons have an innermost 'vanity panel' as shown here. Epoxy this onto the inside of your sponson. Use your rails or straight flat surface to be sure this step is square. Glue the sponson's last end cap and end cap 'vanity panel' onto the frame during this step.





End cap and vanity panel

 

[Mario Johnston]

29. With your sponson frame set up, take time to fillet the corners of each bulkhead to the frames.

 

[Mario Johnston]

30. Epoxy the three-aluminum turn fin threaded inserts in place

31. Glue stringers in place. The stringers will be 1/8" x 1/4" rod. glue the upper stringer in place first, then the lower. The lower stringer will need to be pulled upward to meet the upper stringer at the forward most bulkhead. A third stringer will need to placed at the rear






32. Block sand the rear underside of the sponson and epoxy rear floor in place

 

[Mario Johnston]

33. Block sand the sponson's lower non-trip section and epoxy its skin on first. Once your lower is in place, sand top edge flush with bulkheads and epoxy the upper skin in place.



34. Block sand the sponson's top surface flush.
Fill the rear cavity with expanding two-part foam, Epoxy the top skin in place




35. Place tape over 3D printed flanges inside the sponson. This will stop your pour foam from bleeding through the pin holes as it expands.

 

[Mario Johnston]

36. Flip your sponsons over and use two-part expanding pour foam to fill each cavity. Cut and sand smooth when foam hardens.




37. The sponsons' ride surfaces can be made from 1/16" wood, Carbon fiber sheet or G10. For this boat, we used 1mm carbon fiber. Cut material to appropriate size with provided template, scuff and epoxy in place.

Mario's note: Leave around 1/16" additional trailing edge on each ride surface







FINISHED RIDE SURFACES!

 

[Mario Johnston]

38. Glue Sponson nose blocks and shape carefully.
*Mario's tip: I made a wedge that notches into the trailing edge of the sponson and allows me to use a long clamp for the sponson nose block gluing. This made the blocks very tight and very clean!

 

[Mario Johnston]

39. Drill and tap your 4 aluminum pin inserts to 8/32 thread. Each hole should be around 1" from the pins' end. The right rear sponson pin must have 2 holes drilled.



40. Align your pins using a straight rod through your bolt holes before you epoxy the pins in place.

 

[Mario Johnston]

Gluing the rear sponsons:

41. Drill holes in your transom and mount the strut assembly. Insert boom tubes in your tub and mount front sponsons. Rest the hull on your flat work surface. Use an angle finder positioned on the hull's floor at the forward engine mount hole to establish a zero degree flat spot. This area on the hull should be parallel to the flat surface you're working on, make adjustments in hull angle with your strut. The hull should now rest on the sponson trailing edges and the strut. The rear sponson trailing edge will need to be around 3/16" above the strut and angled to around 1.2 to 1.5 degrees. Use a flat 3/16" thick piece of material to rest your rear sponsons on and tilt the material to the desired angle. Glue the rear sponsons in place. Double sided tape can also be used to secure sponsons.



42. Insert 3/8" dowels cut to 5" lengths into the boom tubes. Be sure that the dowels are centered within the tube. These will maintain the strength of the tube when tub screws are tightened.
Insert boom tubes in the hull. Look for approximately 8" of length on either side of the tub. The RIGHT FRONT tube edge will need an 1/8" sanded off the end. This will toe the right sponson inward. Mark hole location for each sponson pin and drill tubes carefully for set screws









Drill boom tube centers through tub floor. Insert 6/32 set screws.

Mario's Note: I chose to use set oval screws with a plastic finish washer under the hull to secure my boom tubes. You can use a flush nut under the hull and run the screws down from the top, either is good!

 

[Mario Johnston]

43. Mount your engine on its rails within the tub and begin cowl fitting. Use G10 or Carbon Fiber plate to make a lip under the front of the cowling. On this boat we used Carbon Fiber.







44. Decide on your cowl mount system. For this hull i chose StumpFab's swivel style cowl locks


45. Add sufficient flotation to your cowl. If using pink foam like this boat, seal the exterior in epoxy to protect the foam from nitro fuel burn

 

[Mario Johnston]

46. Machine your Right strut mount bracket and your rudder mount to fit the transom.
Use these images as a reference





Mario's note: cut your rudder length to between 2.25" -2.5" below your rear sponson ride surface

 

[Mario Johnston]

Much of the work beyond this point is fit and finish, therefore you have creative freedom to build your own details into the boat the way you see fit.
Here are some more images and notes about how i finished this hull

Steering Servo mounting:
I made my mount from cherry blocks and epoxied the assembly to a 1/8" pedestal within the radio box. The entire mount is also glued to the rear bulkhead to add structural support.

 

[Mario Johnston]

The bait box is a fully sealed compartment on this hull. I used a piece of brass tubing, flared and epoxied into the transom for a rubber boot to be fitted.

 

[Mario Johnston]

I made a support block from cherry to be placed around my stuffing tube. This adds more structural support to the tube

 

[Mario Johnston]

This hull was sealed with West System Epoxy, 105 resin and 207 slow hardener. The tub sides and sponsons were cleared using SprayMax 2k Clear







View attachment 20240904_105946.mp4


View attachment 20240904_105838.mp4

 

[Mario Johnston]

Down to final assembly

 

[Mario Johnston]

This concludes my build thread/instructional walk-through of the TNT Racing Banshee kit!
I hope you guys enjoyed looking through my process, this was an incredibly fun boat to build!
I tried to keep everything as clear and easy to understand as possible, but if we're honest, if you're building a 60 outrigger, this ain't your first rodeo!

Huge Thank You of course to Troy & TJ Hammons for this kit and their trust in me to put this together for you all.
Special Thanks to:
Stu Barr, CMB Motors, USA
Gabe Clegg, StumpFab/NovaRossi Marine
John Steltzer, SS Custom Tanks
SpeedMaster Hardware, Rossi Sales
Dave Roach, Dayton, OH
Mark Sholund, Props 4 U
Alan Elzer, BAM Racing Products

-MJ
Cincinnati, OH

 

[dr gary turner]

Very nice build Mario.
Should be very FAST.

Just a comment I think 60 hydro is making a come back. In my early years in the 80’s, 60 hydro was the primary class. I had a great CS competition 60 and got beat by 50 points by Roger Moran at the Indy Unlimited.

I have revisited my at least 20 year old CS 60 and re-powered it with a new motor and it is a blast.