Stainless tanks

[GraysonTaylor]

Do stainless tanks ever go bad? I have a nice one from one of the makers here and it looks like it could last forever.

I know that many are going to say "Don't! ", but I'm tempted to build the tank into my wood 1/8th scale. Instead of trashing the idea, I would like to know if you had to replace your ss tank and why?

Thank you. GT

 

[Kez]

I have made a few tanks in the past when I had access to a bench shear and sheet metal tools. I used Sta-brite silver solder. What I have found is that over time, the solder would get corroded. If you ever soldered a brass pickup tubing to the brass weight in those Sullivan tanks, you will notice the solder eventually gets corroded.

k

 

[GraysonTaylor]

I've replaced a few sullivan tanks. John's tanks use ss tubing. I'm guessing that Walt's use ss too. I know they will get gummy if not flushed out, but will they fail?

 

[Danny King]

Tank seems can open up and
Leak. Which is a problem if you can’t get it out.

 

[Walt Barney]

Do stainless tanks ever go bad? I have a nice one from one of the makers here and it looks like it could last forever.

I know that many are going to say "Don't! ", but I'm tempted to build the tank into my wood 1/8th scale. Instead of trashing the idea, I would like to know if you had to replace your ss tank and why?

Thank you. GT

Grayson

 

[Walt Barney]

Grayson,
I have built over 1000 SS tanks, I have had a few that after a while they leak either at the top seam, or the bottom seam The tanks do take a beating when the boats are going over 60mph + No tank that I know of can stand that kind of abuse forever, unless it is taken care of with some kind of cushion to help adsorb the shock of the boat pounding the waves at speed
I have seen some tanks that are well taken care of last as long as the boat I suggest that you make provisions to remove the tank if for nothing else to check it occasionally.
Walt Barney
Tanks 2 U

 

[Mike Cathey]

I have had to place foam rubber under a few sump tanks to stop the fuel from foaming and the motor leaning out. Is there a better material to place under the tank?

 

[Greg Wannamaker]

All my boats sport Walts creations, each fall I flush them out with thinner and pump a small amount of ATF into them, flush that out in the spring with some more thinner, fill them up and go again. I surround them with 1/16 th foam sheeting to protect them from vibrations, haven’t had one fail yet and some are probably 10 years old or a bit more.

 

[GraysonTaylor]

Thanks for the input. I'm probably not going to build it in, just needed to consider the option.

 

[Bradley Maglinger]

Thanks for the input. I'm probably not going to build it in, just needed to consider the option.

Would the tank be under the Deck built in? If so you could make a access panel you could tape on, just an option?

 

[Kez]

From experience, a metal tank with soldered seams leaks because the solder gets corroded. I am sure the vibration does not help either. I have used silver solder and also tin/lead solder with acid core. They both get corroded over time when exposed to fuel.

 

[GraysonTaylor]

Would the tank be under the Deck built in? If so you could make a access panel you could tape on, just an option?

I need to think about that one

 

[rctinman]

No matter what the tank is made from, you NEED to have access to it!

Steve Ball

 

[johnsteltzer]

Yes that’s what I think to like Steve said if it goes to leaking it will ruin a wood boat

 

[GraysonTaylor]

I think I got it figured out. I wasn't thinking "through" the box. I looked at the under the deck space and measured how big a tank would fit in there. Came to 15.75 oz. That would work, but the only way to get that through a side window would have been to cut a very large window to get the tank in. Not going to work because of the way I set up my motor mount.

Access through the top would work.

I started to figure out what size tank I could fit in there with a smaller window opening and then it hit me. Have the tank hang out into the center well. A reversed "L" shaped tank. The long part under the deck. Pretty sure I can make the tank 18 or so oz. that way. When I get it mocked up, I post a picture.

Thanks for the help and ideas!

 

[Greg Wannamaker]

Lots of great ideas, think about the underside access panel option, with what I was sharing with you the other day, that’s pretty much the only way to get the tank over the CG and your right the access hole in your engine bay would be too huge to get it in and out of there. Tons of guys do the underside access thing and it works and is unseen. Unless your upside down and that happens too! Haha.

 

[GraysonTaylor]

Lots of great ideas, think about the underside access panel option, with what I was sharing with you the other day, that’s pretty much the only way to get the tank over the CG and your right the access hole in your engine bay would be too huge to get it in and out of there. Tons of guys do the underside access thing and it works and is unseen. Unless your upside down and that happens too! Haha.

I hate it when that happens! LMAO.

 

[GraysonTaylor]

Hey Greg, thank you for sending your pictures of Tony. Everything I can get is helpful. GT.

 

[GraysonTaylor]

So I'm looking at the window I need to cut out from the center tub side and I'm lookingat my Dremal bit collection and thinking there's gotta be a better way. I found adjustable jewelers saws. Anyone have any recommendations?

 

[Tom Foley]

So I'm looking at the window I need to cut out from the center tub side and I'm lookingat my Dremal bit collection and thinking there's gotta be a better way. I found adjustable jewelers saws. Anyone have any recommendations?

The small Dremel slitting saw wheels work great . They are so thin the leave little kerf and very controllable . I was worried when I made these Seaducer tank access hatches but it was super easy .