Riggers from Japan

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Hi Mike! If you are having troubles registering as a member, send some mail to Gene or Tom Moorehouse. They will get you in here in no time.

I will post the pic that I believe that you are talking about.

This particular boats wing is controlled in conjunction with the throttle linkage. It doesn't have a gyro.

It is a .21 O.SRZ-M. It has been tweeked to the hilt to run on straight fuel. That is the rule. They are not allowed to use nitro in this contest. The boat runs a 12 km course. The driver controls the boat from with in a real boat that follows the model. They can run the course in about 6-8 minutes. It is for time only. That doesn't seem so fast, but when you consider that the waves have white caps. They are unbelievable fast for the conditions.
 
One more thing. This boat isn't a kit. It is hand built with plywood. Most of the racers in this class build their own boats.

About the gyro; I asked around, and I found out that the ones they use are RYOBI or Kyosho Helicopter gyros. I'm sorry but I am totally ingnorant when it comes to how they set them up. I know that outriggers that use them, have them control the rudder, and the off shore monos that use them use them to control the wings, trim tabs, or both.

I will be sure to let you know as soon as I find out more, because you got my curiosity churning.

Thanks Hammer
 
I got the info on the servo and gyro that the guys are using in their offshore boats. The guy who uses it in his rigger, uses the same set up. There is one thing You have to be careful of when you use a gyro. You have to mount the actual gyro unit as close to the CG as your radio box will allow. If it is to far back it wont be sensitive enough.

Posted are also pictures of the actual unit and servo.

Hammer
 
This is the servo that you have to use with the gyro.

The gyro is made by futaba. It is the GY240 / about $130

The servo is also by futaba. It is the S9251 / about $160
 
I just wrote a big story about the prop testing and my puter crashed right as I finished. #&$'$%'!!!!. Well, I will try again but, it will be summerized.

I tested the following props on Saturday and Sunday.

1667, H38, H40modified, X465, X470, 270modified, and 265modified. The H38 was the fastest, but it porposed like crazy. The H40 was too heavy, the X465 was too light, the 265 modified was the same as the X465, The 1667 was very similar to the H38. Not quite as fast, but it porposed like crazy. Too much lift. For the way my sponsons are set up now, the X470 and the 270 modified were the fastest without the porposing. I think if I lower the clearance between the sponsons and the bottom of my hull, I will be able to run the H38 in heat races. I don't have time before the next race to do major changes to my boat, so I will leave it like it is. The next race will be on the 28th of this month. The race is the Eastern Japan eliminations for the National Championships that will be held on the 15th of September. I will have a month and a half after the eliminations to dink with my boat. I will have to place in the top 3 to get a ticket to the Nats. I will run in other classes for insurance, but I really want to take my Hammerhead 90 to the Nats. I will also compete in the 400 meter time trial's elimination on the 4th of August. I will be going after a birth in the Nats for that competition, too. I will be running a .21 rigger with an O.S .21VZ that has been tuned to the hilt. I was running between 17 and 18 seconds at our pond. If I can avoid the butterflies in my stomach, I should have no problems going to the Nats with that boat. 17 seconds means that you are running between 125 and 130 kph in the 30 meter straights and dropping down to a 100 just as you are ready to pop out of the turns. That is about 77mph in 100 feet. Not bad apples. I'm using an H7 modified prop on that boat. I tried the 1450. It didn't have as much get up and go, but it was good for getting a perfect needle setting.

Don't ask me what has been done to the prop or engine, because I didn't do it myself, and I'm an idiot when it comes to tuning props or engines.

Have a good one. Hammer
 
Hammer,

Change the strut angle to stop it porpousing, do you run it flat our angled down?? i usually run mine flat with the 48's and 1 or 2 degrees down with the 38's as they lift less than the 48's.
 
Hammer,

Change the strut angle to stop it porpousing, do you run it flat our angled down?? i usually run mine flat with the 48's and 1 or 2 degrees down with the 38's as they lift less than the 48's.
Hammer,

I'll second that! Get yourself a H38 and when you get the strut angle & height right for it will be even faster! After that maybe try shortening the pipe a little!

Tim.
 
I will try it! Thanks to both of you. Dale and Tim. Unfortunately, the next time I will have a chance to run the boat will be at the eliminations, so I will have to do my best with what I have set up now.

I will dink around with the strut first and then the clearance after this race. I will have a month and a half to get it right. I really want to be able to run with the H38. I think it will scream once I can get the boat trimmed out right. That is one of the problems about making your own boat from scratch. There is no one who is familiar with it enough to tell me," This is what you're doing wrong". Anyway, I think that I will be able to get the perfect performance out of it with just a little more testing.

Tim! Right now I'm running it flat in relation to the bottom of the hull.

I haven't done any angle adjustments. Just up and down ones.

Thanks, Hammer
 
Try angling the strut down a few degrees, you will find that that should stop the hop in the back end with the H38, if you spin some good revs with the H38 you should be up around the 90mph mark,

youll get there just keep trying things, you may find that the OS cant make enough grunt to go any faster then you can move on to a more powerful engine and then you start all over again with the trimming and bigger props.

BTW i have TimD's eagle sg all painted should have some pics for you today!! :D
 
I've been waiting forever to see Tim's boat. Looking forward to getting it into my gallery. Thanks and by the way are you one of Tims pond mates?

See ya after I get home from work.

Hammer
 
You could say that, i work with him, race boats with him, paint his boats, i have know tim for a few years now.
 
That's cool. I've been B!%(#!~& at Tim to get some pics of his boat for about 3 months now. So... You are the guilty one ;D. Nice to meet you!

What do you recommend for a power horse? K-90s? They are getting a little bit more affordible here. I have been thinking about it. The people who use them, say the stock carb is garbage. What do you think? Most replace them with an O.S. carb, and a special made adaptor.

Thanks, Hammer
 
Hammer,

I'll send you some pic's today! Just got the boat from Dale (twin-K90). I did take my time with this boat even before Dale got ahold of it so I'm guilty too!

re the motor - what is the class size limit for your hammerhead 90 boat? If it's .90 then the K90 would be my pick. If you can use the 1 cube then probably the CMB ( Dale will say the A100 - just watch & see! he he)

It is very hard to go past the O.S 9B carb - they are awesome.
 
Yes im the guilty one!!! :)

We have been running the k90's in twins for about 4 years now, love em, had the standard carbs on them since day 1, pull h50's all day long, the only reason i think that they would change the carb is for a low end needle, but you dont really need them in a hydro,,

the other option is a CMB 100 they perform really well as well, will pull h50's all day long as well, probably a bit eaiser to work on as well, the K90's take a bit of care when putting together and stuff, but they dont have a low range needle either.

I would go the k90 over a CMB any day, im also looking at getting a A100 for my new mono, they seem to be working really well!!
 
Hammer,

I'll send you some pic's today! Just got the boat from Dale (twin-K90). I did take my time with this boat even before Dale got ahold of it so I'm guilty too!

re the motor - what is the class size limit for your hammerhead 90 boat? If it's .90 then the K90 would be my pick. If you can use the 1 cube then probably the CMB ( Dale will say the A100 - just watch & see! he he)

It is very hard to go past the O.S 9B carb - they are awesome.
HEHEHE how did you know i was going to say that?? only been talking non stop about them for 3 days now!! :)

hammer check out our site with some close up pics of the k90's and our twins http://members.optusnet.com.au/~kingcraft
 
here you go hammer, just for you, TimD's eagle SG

tim2.jpg


tim3.jpg
 
Hammer: how about some pics of your .21 rigger... is it CF as well? the H7 is a great .21 rigger prop. does anyone run the MAC .21 over there yet?

Twin-K90 you going to be painting a .21 rigger (firefighter) for timd pretty soon? also... great looking paint job! is that the 80 size for a 60?

TimD hows that rigger going? i'm dieing to know!
 
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