Radio discussion

[John Beardslee]

Yeah?....screw that!

Tim, I’ve always used a rule developed by Jim Drew at Xtreme RC with no failures. “Keep the antenna 2” above any electrical conductor and 2” above the tuned pipe. Served me well for the last 10 years in small single engine riggers through twin riggers. As an aside, Jim Drew designed and handled the communications for Ballard when he went to the bottom on the Pacific/Marianas Trench.

 

[Wasted wages]

Frank, Then you can see the challenges with 2.4 near the water. The the main reason Spek had so many issues as a marine radio early on. A large part of that was channel surfing (Futaba) and not.. (Spek). They have gotten much better however. (they have a very nice, very smart dude working RF for them now)

The VERY FIRST 2.4 FAST receivers that came out in the surface market had blue labels.. (yes.. FAST with blue labels) they "COULD" be challenged by HEAT related issues. (I never experienced it but we did prove it in the test lab.) that was over 15 years ago now.. (time fly's) that's been solved for years now...

We became quite enticed by that short antenna (both TX and RX). BAD IDEA.. LOL... yes they work BUT.. one better pay close attention to your installation and operation. ITS ALL GOOD, working great.. I love this.. . until its not.....

From my testing and from Futaba USA.. get that RX antenna as far away from the water as you can......(its not hard) but we choose to ignore. (I did for a time too)

Most of the air issues I see at the local club are radios un-binding.. (note.. we at Futaba LINK), we do not pair or bind.. (that's the other guys),, if ya know what I mean. I know.. generic but it help us talk about what's what.

Be well buddy.. we all in this together!

Grim

Grim, I’m not knocking 2.4…

My first step into them was with a Used Futaba 4px with 13 used receivers from a very good and well known person on I/W ..

I would not have even considered buying used if it wasn’t for this person..

Not sure why the radio did what it did,, but the installation followed all the rules concerning 2.4 and it was definitely a receiver issue.
I don’t give radio equipment second chances and the receiver is sitting at the bottom of the lake now.

Replacing the receiver with another one out of the batch of 13 did the trick, and the boat drove perfect after we changed it..

I now own 4 of the same transmitters and a whole bunch of receivers, so I’m now vested in the 2.4 game for keeps!!

 

[John Beardslee]

Grim, I’m not knocking 2.4…

My first step into them was with a Used Futaba 4px with 13 used receivers from a very good and well known person on I/W ..

I would not have even considered buying used if it wasn’t for this person..

Not sure why the radio did what it did,, but the installation followed all the rules concerning 2.4 and it was definitely a receiver issue.
I don’t give radio equipment second chances and the receiver is sitting at the bottom of the lake now.

Replacing the receiver with another one out of the batch of 13 did the trick, and the boat drove perfect after we changed it..

I now own 4 of the same transmitters and a whole bunch of receivers, so I’m now vested in the 2.4 game for keeps!!

Frank, did you do a range check? I still do it for every first installation/ new boat etc.

 

[Wasted wages]

I did, but with 2.4 it’s not like the old FM where you could collapse the antenna and walk away from the boat… so I drove across the parking lot and had another member on the cellphone confirm it was working good… BUT .. the boat wasn’t running.
I don’t know if vibration was the issue,, or spark plug interference or what.
It’s a gas mono, and there was plenty of antenna stick out and it was away from the pipe… the boat does have a cowl, and the antenna protruded thru it about 2”…

The receiver was the dual type (?) with the little foil antenna inside of it (?) as well as the coax one..

Like I said, the boat did go out and made about a half lap and then went bonkers..
and I ran the boat with the same battery pack and servos for the rest of the day with no problems…

 

[Timbo Whalen]

Tim, I’ve always used a rule developed by Jim Drew at Xtreme RC with no failures. “Keep the antenna 2” above any electrical conductor and 2” above the tuned pipe. Served me well for the last 10 years in small single engine riggers through twin riggers. As an aside, Jim Drew designed and handled the communications for Ballard when he went to the bottom on the Pacific/Marianas Trench.

Yes, John, I'm actually 3" above top of pipe....thanks

 

[Timbo Whalen]

Tim, I’ve always used a rule developed by Jim Drew at Xtreme RC with no failures. “Keep the antenna 2” above any electrical conductor and 2” above the tuned pipe. Served me well for the last 10 years in small single engine riggers through twin riggers. As an aside, Jim Drew designed and handled the communications for Ballard when he went to the bottom on the Pacific/Marianas Trench.

John, what are you doing with residual antenna wire between Rx and antenna base, underside of radio box lid?....

 

[John Beardslee]

John, what are you doing with residual antenna wire between Rx and antenna base, underside of radio box lid?....

I just route it neatly and secure it with velcro. The only effective/ functional part is the last 3/4”-1” with the coax exposed. I still use my red caps but do not fold the coax, I use velcro on the inside of the lid and fitting to keep the antenna from sliding back down the tube.

 

[Timbo Whalen]

I just route it neatly and secure it with velcro. The only effective/ functional part is the last 3/4”-1” with the coax exposed. I still use my red caps but do not fold the coax, I use velcro on the inside of the lid and fitting to keep the antenna from sliding back down the tube.

Same here....the Futaba manual talks about that setup, pretty much what you've said.

 

[Grimracer]

I take and clip off the starter end of a 4in zip tie and stick it up in the antenna tube to hold the antenna. Works a charm..

 

[Timbo Whalen]

I take and clip off the starter end of a 4in zip tie and stick it up in the antenna tube to hold the antenna. Works a charm..

Excellent idea, Grim....I was taking a toothpick with a dab of contact adhesive on it and tacking right there where antenna wire passes through antenna base at radio box lid. Your solution seems simpler....thanks!

Hey, are you splitting the Rx and coating PCB with anything?.... there's a proprietary solution for that, and some spray PCB down with Corrosion X, and close it up.....what say you?.....again, thanks.

BTW, want me to pencil you in for a new 2025 1,064 hp ZR1 w/ZTK package?.........she'sa spinner!

 

[Grimracer]

LOL.. lets do it............. wait... HONEY!.......................................................................

she said no.............. ratts..

Grim

 

[Grimracer]

I dont use any coatings on my RXs BUT YOU CAN.. crossionX is a good choice.

Grim

 

[Timbo Whalen]

LOL.. lets do it............. wait... HONEY!.......................................................................

she said no.............. ratts..

Grim

Well then.....


.....

 

[Grimracer]

BAHAAAAAAAAAAA

 

[David Bryant]

I think the odds are pretty good that many who have made the switch to DSM are using digital servos but haven’t changed battery chemistry, thus living on borrowed time before a brown out causes a signal failure.

you mean folks that are still using NiCad packs?

 

[Jeff Krietemeyer]

I should go on to qualify that..

You can use ANY 2.4 system for ANY RC application.. HOWEVER.. the MFGs still use special protocols between surface and air (i don't know why)

Grim

Only Spektrum! And I'm not sure that still applies. I think their current surface radios use their DSMR protocol.

 

[John Beardslee]

you mean folks that are still using NiCad packs?

Yes, the newer chemistries are far superior in my opinion and experience.

 

[Kris Flynn]

Has anyone used these 'cheaper' radios for SAW events, with the boat up to 400m away from you?

cheers
Kris

 

[Grimracer]

To me LIFE has changed the game in on board RX power.

They "sit well" ,VERY LITTLE self discharging.
Good capacity for the weight
About as safe as we are going to get from a "modern" battery for now

NEVER USE ONE IN ANYTHING!!!! with a rating of LESS THEN 5C. Yes.. there are 1 and 2 C packs out there.

Make sure you have a charger that tackles this task. LOTS to chose from.

Once you switch or start using them.. you would have a VERY hard time turning back.

Grim

 

[Terry Keeley]

I switched to ProTek Life packs a few years ago and never looked back - zero issues. You can charge them and let them sit for 6 months with very little drain.

With the 1600 mah rx packs I can run all day and only use 3-400 mah with digital servos. And no voltage regulators!

https://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=life&fb=209