JAP/JAE .12G construction

[Jiri Kuukasjärvi]

Who is using what to keep the boom tubes from sliding in the tube.zip ties wheel collars ??

What Turn fins are working well?

Here are my solutions..

M2 screw + lock nut through brass tube (glued to sponson and frame) and carbon tube (OD 8 / ID 6mm)

DIY- turnfin. Bent version seems to work better than my first model. Keeps right sponson down at high speed turns.

First version was a imitation of miss vegas fin that I cut from 2mm aluminium. Sharpened but no bends.

 

[tmunn]

Jiri, would you have a picture of what you use in the tub of the rigger or on each side next to the outside of the tub to keep them from moving left or right inside of the tub, Not from moving out at the sponson end.

I may have a DIY fin here that looks like yours...

How do you like your jae so far?

 

[153stars]

2 cell Li-Po 500 mah with a regulater Thats what I plan, also my scale I am building I plan on 2 cell li-po with the new high voltage servo's no need for a voltage reg,!!

NICE packs nimh 4.8-400mah 2/3 AAA $11.50 with rec. end ONLY 1 OZ. http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/items.asp?db=6

Love the 6v. versions too. Real well made.

 

[153stars]

2 cell Li-Po 500 mah with a regulater Thats what I plan, also my scale I am building I plan on 2 cell li-po with the new high voltage servo's no need for a voltage reg,!!

Sorry sir, I didn't make it very clear that I'm an FE kind of person lol. That packs I need to cram in there are 4000ish sized. Although that's the first I heard of high voltage servos. Have any quick links to them? I always thought I was up on the latest and greatest.

There made to handle 7.4 volts I know JR has tiny ones picked up 98oz ones barely bigger than mg81. A lot of guys at track say they have been running high torque digitals on 7.4 no problems anyway.

 

[Jiri Kuukasjärvi]

Jiri, would you have a picture of what you use in the tub of the rigger or on each side next to the outside of the tub to keep them from moving left or right inside of the tub, Not from moving out at the sponson end.

I may have a DIY fin here that looks like yours...

How do you like your jae so far?

At first I just glued the carbon tube to the tub. Not a good idea, crashed my boat to track marker and broke both tubes on one side.

Repaired it by gluing a brass tube to the tub too. Tube length is tub width + ~10mm on both sides.

Same M2 + lock nut -solution there too - on both sides.

Carbon tube is fixed the same way to both tub and sponsons.

It´s my first outrigger but I like it. In fact I´m building a JAE.21G now.

btw, if someone has drive hardware (everything that spins) for a .21 for sale, pm me..

 

[tmunn]

I like the brass tube Idea and keeps it neat looking and your already using it on the sponsons so it keeps the hardware the same.

Did you just drill the tub to accept the brass tubes after you had the boat built.

I was thinking that all the holes in the sides of the wood and the doublers could be enlarged to the size of the brass tube o.d. ,before construction.

Make sense?

 

[Jiri Kuukasjärvi]

I like the brass tube Idea and keeps it neat looking and your already using it on the sponsons so it keeps the hardware the same.

Did you just drill the tub to accept the brass tubes after you had the boat built.

I was thinking that all the holes in the sides of the wood and the doublers could be enlarged to the size of the brass tube o.d. ,before construction.

Make sense?

You have the lasercut kit? What do the instructions say about this subject?

I built mine from plans & sheets of plywood. Saw a picture of similar setup somewhere so I did the same.

Cheap and works fine for me

Brass tube was glued to the sponson sides from the beginning, but tub holes were enlarged after the crash.

 

[kcvnd]

2 cell Li-Po 500 mah with a regulater Thats what I plan, also my scale I am building I plan on 2 cell li-po with the new high voltage servo's no need for a voltage reg,!!

Something about lithium NEAR water made me think twice about putting them in my scale. I use lipos for my heli, they are a pain and make me nervous every time I charge them. Call me paranoid h34r:

 

[tmunn]

I have a kit comming and have read the instructions amd they just give a few options in this area.wheel collars, zip ties.Get something made.

I like your idea best do far.

 

[Ron Olson]

Terry, I'd like to find what Geraghty is using, some nylon wheel collars! I might have to resort to radio box tape and zip ties.

I started framing up the tub this morning and everything went quickly. I clamped the starboard side to the hollow-core door that I use then tacked the bulkheads in place. A little filing on the inside corners and it all fit very well.

Off to the LHS tomorrow to order what I already don't have which isn't much.

I'm going to use the Aquacraft Grimracer Miss Vegas turn fin. The instructions don't tell as far as I can see which one to use.

 

[Terry Flynn]

Look at these something here might work.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=3tjwix

 

[Joe Petro]

We are using a short (1/4 inch) piece of clear vinyl tubing and a small zip tie. Works perfectly, and it's cheap!

We couldn't find any kind of collar that was suitable, without adding 20% to the kit price...

We figured people would rather have an inexpensive kit.

As for the turn fin, we have fins in stock for the 12. These are based on the current 12 sized hydro fins.

They are made from sharpened 6061 aluminum, and will include screws and washers for $12 shipped.

We are waiting on the screws, so watch the web site for availability.

We also added the turn fin recommendations to the manual (thanks Ron).

Pics tomorrow...

Joe

 

[Geraghty]

We are using a short (1/4 inch) piece of clear vinyl tubing and a small zip tie. Works perfectly, and it's cheap!

We couldn't find any kind of collar that was suitable, without adding 20% to the kit price...

We figured people would rather have an inexpensive kit.

As for the turn fin, we have fins in stock for the 12. These are based on the current 12 sized hydro fins.

They are made from sharpened 6061 aluminum, and will include screws and washers for $12 shipped.

We are waiting on the screws, so watch the web site for availability.

We also added the turn fin recommendations to the manual (thanks Ron).

Pics tomorrow...

Joe

If you remember when JAE released the JAE.12G plans,we said it was much more fun to build than to buy.

When Joe [Zippkits] contacted me about building a kit I said that I wanted it to be first and foremost inexpensive and I intentionally

wanted it to be a "short kit".It didn't need every screw and washer to be included included.

I intentionally wanted to engage the builder into thinking about making design decisions on what it took to bring the boat to completion.

These boom tube collars are a good example of an area where the builder is required to exercise some design initiative and make some

decisions on what to use.This dialogue is great.

For the .12 size boats,I believe, the vinyl tubing is a great idea for retaining the boom tubes.It may even work on the .21 boat also.

The JAE design team is going to try it.Don't tell the world it won't work until you try it.

The point here is don't poo poo an idea until you try it...

This construction dialogue is exactly what model boating needs.It is encouraging to see a whole new genre of "new builders" appearing and not just buyers.

It has been very gratifying to see how much enthusiam has been generated for model boating by a $39.95 kit.

Build and enjoy and keep the fire a burnin'.

Rod Geraghty

 

[Richard Dahlheimer]

We are using a short (1/4 inch) piece of clear vinyl tubing and a small zip tie. Works perfectly, and it's cheap!

We couldn't find any kind of collar that was suitable, without adding 20% to the kit price...

We figured people would rather have an inexpensive kit.

As for the turn fin, we have fins in stock for the 12. These are based on the current 12 sized hydro fins.

They are made from sharpened 6061 aluminum, and will include screws and washers for $12 shipped.

We are waiting on the screws, so watch the web site for availability.

We also added the turn fin recommendations to the manual (thanks Ron).

Pics tomorrow...

Joe

If you remember when JAE released the JAE.12G plans,we said it was much more fun to build than to buy.

When Joe [Zippkits] contacted me about building a kit I said that I wanted it to be first and foremost inexpensive and I intentionally

wanted it to be a "short kit".It didn't need every screw and washer to be included included.

I intentionally wanted to engage the builder into thinking about making design decisions on what it took to bring the boat to completion.

These boom tube collars are a good example of an area where the builder is required to exercise some design initiative and make some

decisions on what to use.This dialogue is great.

For the .12 size boats,I believe, the vinyl tubing is a great idea for retaining the boom tubes.It may even work on the .21 boat also.

The JAE design team is going to try it.Don't tell the world it won't work until you try it.

The point here is don't poo poo an idea until you try it...

This construction dialogue is exactly what model boating needs.It is encouraging to see a whole new genre of "new builders" appearing and not just buyers.

It has been very gratifying to see how much enthusiam has been generated for model boating by a $39.95 kit.

Build and enjoy and keep the fire a burnin'.

Rod Geraghty

Position boom tubes in tub, and wrap vinyl electrical tape around tubes next to tub sides. I have seen this method used on a great running .12 hydro at TCMBC pond. NO poo poo! Richard D

 

[TCHedOff]

I've seen some questions about batteries. I wanted small batteries and a 6volt set up, so I chose to go with C-5 KAN700 AAA Flat Pack w/22AWG wire and w/a male HiTec fitting (cost $12.50) from cheapbatterypacks.com. The side-by-side flat pack is narrow enough to lay flat on the bottom of the tub in rear against the transom (and out of the way of the stuffing tube).

 

[Geraghty]

Position boom tubes in tub, and wrap vinyl electrical tape around tubes next to tub sides. I have seen this method used on a great running .12 hydro at TCMBC pond. NO poo poo! Richard D

cool....

 

[tmunn]

Rod, where did you get the collars on your boat ?

 

[Geraghty]

Rod, where did you get the collars on your boat ?

I turned them on the lathe out of delrin........

 

[Ron Olson]

I got a little bit more done today. I found that using a scrap piece of brass tubing helped to align the front boom doublers and the engine mount rails.

While wandering around the LHS this morning I got to wondering if drilling a 1/16" hole in the booms and tubes then using the RC car and truck body clips might be a way to go for securing those parts. I probably won't go that route but just kind of thinking.....

When I got home I started putting more stuff together but my 5-minute was setting up too fast to do more than just a couple of pieces. It might be because you might want something quicker setting around the foam (?) but I'm going back to the Z-Poxy for the rest of it.

 

[tmunn]

Thanks guys...If a person was not in a hurry would be an issue if i were to use west sytem for the complete build as an adhesive and a coating .It sure would be stronger but would it be too heavy.I have all winter and like the waterproofness of west.

just throwing it out there..The only thing i see different would be the wait time between epoxy cure.Most 5 minute and most 30 minute epoxy are not waterproof....