My hardware showed up today from Joe Solinger and looks very nice. The question is, are you guys sharpening the leading edge of the rudder or leaving it as-is?
Sharpen it..........
JAP/JAE .12G construction
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Ron Olson
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Will do Rod.
Where I work we've got what they call Papermaker's knives that I thought would be ideal rudder blades for boats that don't need a water pick-up built in. A riveted wood handle could be easily busted off with a hammer. A little big for using on a .12 rigger but has possibilities for a .21 or .45.
Where I work we've got what they call Papermaker's knives that I thought would be ideal rudder blades for boats that don't need a water pick-up built in. A riveted wood handle could be easily busted off with a hammer. A little big for using on a .12 rigger but has possibilities for a .21 or .45.
has anyone considserd a .1/4" hollow boom tube , perhaps carbon fiber that would break easily upon impact.Or perhaps a 5/16 hollow tube for the same reason above ?It could easily be done by upsizing all the .250 holes in the wood and using brass 5/16 ID aluminum tubes in the sponsons.
NOT trying to redisign the boat , just wondering if these tubes shear easily and I do realize where they are solid they are better for drilling..
just wondering if the tubes that come in the kit will SHEAR or cause damage to the tubs ???
NOT trying to redisign the boat , just wondering if these tubes shear easily and I do realize where they are solid they are better for drilling..
just wondering if the tubes that come in the kit will SHEAR or cause damage to the tubs ???
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What comes in the kit is solid black fiberglass. I have thought of using a carbon arrow shaft before. Been so long since I bought them I can't remember the ava. dia. but one would be long enough if you removed the fletchings.I'm sure walmarts have them right now 4-$9 ea no shipping
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Jiri Kuukasjärvi
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I´m using:
8mm carbon tube (1mm wall thickness) for the tubes and
K&S 11/32 sound brass stock no. 134 for support in sponsons and tub.
Managed to brake the tubes only once so far, collision to track marker at full speed.. Cut the left sponson right off.
Another collision was also full speed.. That time head on. Boat sank half way to the tank (maybe 17-18cm from nose of the tub) in the marker.
No damages that time, but boat was quite firmly attached to the marker. Had to use some force to pull it out..
8mm carbon tube (1mm wall thickness) for the tubes and
K&S 11/32 sound brass stock no. 134 for support in sponsons and tub.
Managed to brake the tubes only once so far, collision to track marker at full speed.. Cut the left sponson right off.
Another collision was also full speed.. That time head on. Boat sank half way to the tank (maybe 17-18cm from nose of the tub) in the marker.
No damages that time, but boat was quite firmly attached to the marker. Had to use some force to pull it out..
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There were actually 2 tub designs. The 12G(Geraghty) has a slightly taller tub in the fuel tank area to accommodate the SS4 plastic tank. The 12H(Hall) has a lower front profile. The performance difference between the two is imperceptable. Rod's goal of a simple, low cost scratch built hull was better realized with the plastic tank. Heck, one of Walt's tanks would cost about teh same as the entire kit!
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The non slant tank will fit in both & the fuel line can be ran below the motor. I used the flex version tank slightly heated and pushed a vent bubble
at the top as the vent is on the side really like it, 3/8-1/2" on 3 sides maybe for more flotation or use foam to support cowl or the wood cutout.
I am skipping the tri stock at the top and am going to use 1/16X9/32" strips of plywood .The tristock will crowd my push rods & seals switch ect. Love it in the bottom. I built the mounts per plans holes were close to the edge as org. had 5/8" rails. If you are looking at the booklet to see motor placement, it looks like they shortened the mount 1/2" also as the 2" per direction tristock behind the mounts should be 2-1/2".
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Another note if you mess up a piece of foam for the sponson like I did. " foam with a bit of on it epoxy doesn't sand down but the opposite side sure does" the Owens pink 1" foam is 1/32" thicker and will mess up your over hang. Brass or alum tubing sharpned drills the foam perfectly by hand.
Rick Sowell
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I didn't see this question answered yet, are you guy's leaving an overhang on the bottom at the rear of the tub or are you sanding the bottom flush with the transom?
No, absolutely not! Leave the overhang off the transom, its there for a reason.
Larry Gempp Jr.
Ron Olson
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OK, it was Tommy that made the bottom flush with the transom.
[updated]
I went down to the basement after posting this and looked at my manual. On pages 25 & 26 it shows the bottom flush with the transon although I can't see why it can't extend beyond it a bit if you wish.
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Some of the pics look like there is no over hangs at all on the hull . I didn't leave any at the transom wish I did.I remembered that most hulls are supposed to be a sharp 90 so that's what I did. What about the ski does the edges have overhang ?
Rick Sowell
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Thanks for the reply Ron, I was about to sand it off then Larry says no, what to do, Rod if you are reading this let all of us know what the real answer is. I will leave it over hang for now, hope we get a definitive answer soon. thanks guy's
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