JAP/JAE .12G construction

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It wasn't clear in booklet was there supposed to be overhang on back of transom? Pics don't look like it.My floor shifted a bit in front if the bottom over hang blends to nothing at the front angle would that be okay? I blended the other side to match so far.

THESE ARE NOT COMPLAINTS

Note Tri stock behind motor mount is 2.5" instead of 2" per directions.

When doubling up doubler and motor mounts you should square them up with the boom tube in them "waxed up or pam sprayed" carefully not gluing them in, my holes didn't end up square ,front to back ,even though I matched the blocks up exactly per directions.

After blending the front skid on tub my plate ended up short.I was very careful not to cut down the leading edge rails.

This was my first build I'm sure to make some mistakes.
 
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Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong but it appears that it does hang off the transom just like the sponsons.

I also noticed that the tub floor is also a little wider. Before sticking it on tomorrow I'd like to know if I should center it and leave the side overhang or sand that off? I'm thinking leave it as is.
 
here is what I see, the tub does not need overhangs because it has the ski, my transom was sanded flush, I left overhang on sponson parts L4-L5-R4-R5, and on the ski naturally.
 
Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong but it appears that it does hang off the transom just like the sponsons.

I also noticed that the tub floor is also a little wider. Before sticking it on tomorrow I'd like to know if I should center it and leave the side overhang or sand that off? I'm thinking leave it as is.
Ron I would leave the sides overhang on the tub and the sponsons this way the water can't trickle up the side of the tub. it helps lunching bigger props <_<

Nick
 
That's my thinking also after seeing the discussion on the anti-wicking or what ever they called it.
 
Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong but it appears that it does hang off the transom just like the sponsons.

I also noticed that the tub floor is also a little wider. Before sticking it on tomorrow I'd like to know if I should center it and leave the side overhang or sand that off? I'm thinking leave it as is.
They say the overhangs helps launch"keeps the water from running up the sides" be sure to leave enough in front to blend in front skid.I don't know about the back.

ANYBODY?
 
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Possible boom tube locks.Dubro 4-40 ball links. The full size that have a screw clamp to the ball.Of coarse they will need a drill ran through them and the end trimmed off. I wouldn't fully drill the curve out the middle the 2 lips may clamp tighter than one large one.I also looked at some outer snap rings ,would have to cut a small groove in the boom tube. Ace didn't have them in galvanized.One with a o-ring behind it would be very clean install. Also heat shrink with the glue in it, wound be pretty neat and can be cut loose & cleaned off pretty easily ,quickest & cheapest one I can come up with.

POST YOUR TIPS
 
Go to Page 4, post #56 of this thread to read Rod's comments and look at pic #2 of post 57. Yesterday was my last race with the green boat; am going to build another (from plans - not the kit - I LIKE to BUILD) over the winter. Was VERY happy with how the boat itself performed (not so much w/the driver! :p ).
 
hi,i like to show my first wood build so far.it was made from the 1st plans when they came out,cooling head is not on yet and just finish putting on the tips.still have to seal and paint.
 
Mine's coming along after spending a lot of time yesterday hibernating in the basement and a little this morning.

I took this shot last night. I added some triangle stock to the servo mounts for a little added insurance and in the "I Can Leave Nothin' Alone" department made up a carbon fiber radio box lid and may make one yet to cover the fuel tank.

In the thinking depaertment I may drill out the boom tube holes in the tub and run some tubing through there, not sure yet.

Hobart2009034.jpg
 
hi,i like to show my first wood build so far.it was made from the 1st plans when they came out,cooling head is not on yet and just finish putting on the tips.still have to seal and paint.
Hey Al push your F stop higher and the whole boat will be in focus, that's you photo tip for today. I can't see what you did at the tips very well. Boat looks great, you did it the harder way I waited for the kit. We have been building them together via speaker phone, he's way ahead of me. Look out Terry gave me my .12 back got to get em in the water before it gets hard. Dang thats a cool header ,you got the last one."the shark"
 
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Need someone to give Walt from Tanks 2 U the dimensions so he can fab up some fuel cells for us. These are the measurements he said he needs:

Length______________

Heigth at Front__________

Heigth at Rear___________

Width at Front___________

Width AT Rear____________

Distance from each side for location of fuel tubes
 
I believe the boat is designed for a sullivan plastic tank.Use that , save some money and you can see when they are full.
 
hi,i like to show my first wood build so far.it was made from the 1st plans when they came out,cooling head is not on yet and just finish putting on the tips.still have to seal and paint.
Hey Little Al,

Looks Great !!!

I will say I have tried using the hs55 and had trouble with them failing and failing fast. I am not sure they are meant for the vibration, I use a hs65mg. I am pretty sure its the same size and they last alot longer. Hope to see you racing a .12 next season :)

Paul
 
The Sullivan SS-4 fits in there with room to spare. Maybe some 90 degree angle flipped up on the front and rear (3/8" x 3/8"?) so that it could be screwed into some small wood blocks.

Terry, some of us like the Bling of a metal fuel cell. Right now it looks like the vent bubble in the tank may be just a hair higher than the tub. I want to cover the tank if possible. I know it sounds kind of dumb if I want a fuel cell in there then cover it up. I do have some sheet Lexan that would still show it off.
 
The Sullivan SS-4 fits in there with room to spare. Maybe some 90 degree angle flipped up on the front and rear (3/8" x 3/8"?) so that it could be screwed into some small wood blocks.

Terry, some of us like the Bling of a metal fuel cell. Right now it looks like the vent bubble in the tank may be just a hair higher than the tub. I want to cover the tank if possible. I know it sounds kind of dumb if I want a fuel cell in there then cover it up. I do have some sheet Lexan that would still show it off.
I went with the flex tank ,I heated and pushed my own vent bubble as it'S in the side when you lay it down.The cap comes out straight & puts the fuel line nicley under the motor if you'd like. I think the kits tub are 1/8 higher than the plans from what I've read. I going the cheap on the build as intended on this one better to show off at LHS that way.

Guy at the paint counter @ home depot was interested in 12g , when he was wondering why I was checking true on yard sticks @ the corner of his counter.He said he remembers when he used to see alot of nitro boats running.
 
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My hardware showed up today from Joe Solinger and looks very nice. The question is, are you guys sharpening the leading edge of the rudder or leaving it as-is?

I found a glitch in the instruction manual. I'm at work right now so don't quote me on the exact pages, this concerns the ski. Page 16 shows it being built incorrectly so refer to the drawing on page 25.

One tiny thing if the manual gets edited. On top of page 7, Miscellaneous has 2 "L's", not one.
 
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