INSANE FE MONO

[JSCARPINO]

Hello All

I purchased the new INSANE FE MONO and wondered if anyone knows

what hardware to bolt onto the back.

I will be setting it up as a P-Spec.

Any Help would be great.

Thanks

Joe

 

[MarkTanski]

Most of the builds I've seen have used the hardware package from Insane

http://www.insaneboats.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=insane&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=Hardware-Kits&Product_Code=FE30HardwareKit.

I used Speedmaster on a recent hydro build of similar size to yours, see no reason why it wouldn't work. Then there is the Chinese stuff from various places, Zippkitts carries a lot of it.

 

[Chilli]

For the 34" mono, Most use Speedmaster 20 Mono hardware and the Large Turn Fins on www.offshoreelectrics.com. People use both the stinger and strut. I had a Seaducer strut and rudder on hand so I used that and it works fine. I also used a pair of the Speedmaster 1.5 x 1.5 trim tabs.

Will you be running "P-Spec Mono" or "P-Mono"? Thats allot of hull for most approved Spec motors.

 

[HOTWATER]

Nice Joe! Good to see you really getting into the FE side of racing! Like Chilli said, some use stingers and some standard strut. The only thing bad about using a stinger is that it's not very adjustable (i'm running one). If you build yours with a strut you should think about using a wet well chamber for the driveline to pass through (PVC or wood box built into the transom) that way the strut will really have good adjustability. Chilli might have a pic or two for you from one of his setups to give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Oh yeah...you might want to use 3" spacing on the stringers for your motor mount...that way you will have plenty of room for your lipos to fit on both sides. Also, keep the stringers as low as possible so the lipos will be easy to get in and out.

-Kent

 

[Chilli]

The first pic is my old Seaducer that also had a flood chamber for the stuffing tube so that strut height can be adjusted. The last three are of my Insane FE mono.

 

[HOTWATER]

Thanks for posting the pics for him bro!

 

[jeepers]

Hello All

I purchased the new INSANE FE MONO and wondered if anyone knows

what hardware to bolt onto the back.

I will be setting it up as a P-Spec.

Any Help would be great.

Thanks

Joe

UH OH! FE has you HOOKED!!

 

[JSCARPINO]

The first pic is my old Seaducer that also had a flood chamber for the stuffing tube so that strut height can be adjusted. The last three are of my Insane FE mono.

Nice clean installation work.....I love when people care about doing it right...

Is the rear of trim tab to front of the rudder blade clearance important?

I ask that so I order the right rudder bracket with the correct distance back from the transom.

Also are the turn fins required? I ask that because the Seaducer monos do not require them nor

do they require trim tabs because of the built in hook at the rear of the hull.

Are they required on the Insane because it is a deepr "V"

I am going to set it up as a P-Mono but want to be able to slam in a P-Spec Motor

for local racing out here in Colorado.....Our District allows P-Spec to run with there

modified Nitro counterparts, but I am sure they will not let a P-Mono run with the Nitro's

I am thinking that if I use a mount that captures the Motor on each end of a P

and then just using the front mount to capture the P-Spec....

My Insane came with no rails which is one of the reasons I bought it.... The Hull weighs

in at 2.55 Pounds which feels real light to me...

Thanks for your help Chilli.

Joe

 

[JSCARPINO]

Nice Joe! Good to see you really getting into the FE side of racing! Like Chilli said, some use stingers and some standard strut. The only thing bad about using a stinger is that it's not very adjustable (i'm running one). If you build yours with a strut you should think about using a wet well chamber for the driveline to pass through (PVC or wood box built into the transom) that way the strut will really have good adjustability. Chilli might have a pic or two for you from one of his setups to give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Oh yeah...you might want to use 3" spacing on the stringers for your motor mount...that way you will have plenty of room for your lipos to fit on both sides. Also, keep the stringers as low as possible so the lipos will be easy to get in and out.

-Kent

Hello Kent

I was going to use a stinger but will take your advise and get a regular strut/bracket set-up.

I will also do the wet well chamber Idea.....

Kent I feel like a FE Snob Now....LOL...I don't miss the Nitro or Gas thing at all right now....

I will post some pics of my Insane Mono build...

Thanks Kent

Joe

 

[Chilli]

Hey Joe, Thanks for the kind words.

I used to stress about hardware placement. Especially the prop and rudder running in clean water behind the tabs. Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in but IMO any water distrurbance coming off the tabs is going to add a little drag. But having the hardware in the best position to do it's job is probably more important.

This mono definitly needs turn fins. She can spin out in the turns. Especially in race water. A few others and myself have even gone as far as sanding down the last 7 inches of the strakes.

 

[Beau Parsons]

Gorilla,

SO you going to hang the hat up on nitro? If so can you give me your .45 Eagle SGX? I will trade you Charlie for the boat? LOL

Beau

 

[properchopper]

Hello Joe,

There's several ways to skin a cat (er, Mono). I favor the SPD stinger, shortened to place the drive dog at the front tip of the rudder. At @ 9.5 lbs rtr in P-Mono trim, I recommend the SPD 60/90 rudders and XL fins to keep PLANTED in the turns. Tabs are large & 1/8" up from the bottom. There seems to be some misconception regarding stingers giving inadequate adjustability; I disagree. If you're going to the trouble of using a flood chamber, the stinger has enough vertical adjustability (see picture of the slotted mounting tabs) to find the sweet spot. If you need more, something's not right. I place the shaft center up 3/8" from the bottom of the Vee and that's that. The angle can be precisely and conveniently changed and monitored better than with a strut. There's two schools of thought regarding motor placement. I like 4" rails with rear-mount motor; the batteries can be nicely secured, easily adjusted for CG considerations, and on the centerline to minimize chine walk. The latest versions, for some months now, have the shorter strakes, btw.

For some reason (luck maybe?) the IB 34's that I've built don't seem to have the handling anomalies that some have reported.

To wet your appetite, here's a P-Mono heat in which two IB34's took first and second, beating out a DF33 & two Cyberstorms (one a clone). Mine & Mark's are the white ones. I let my Insane Teammate Mark pass on lap four since he got a one lap penalty for clobbering a buoy, but his faster (bigger motor) boat came in second, and I took the heat and class win.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0ixeztr-wE

My boat on left, and a customer's (red one) under construction, stinger detail, and my interior

If I can assist in any way :

[email protected]

Regards,

Tony

Insane Mob Race Team

 

[Chilli]

Tony is the factory Team member so listen to him. (except for stinger use, battery placement and rail width) :lol:

I kind of had a V8 moment and in hindsight have to agree with Tony that this hull in stock form likes big hardware hanging off the transom. My .20 rudder turns the boat just fine, but with it's smaller profile, even D mono turn fins were not enough to keep the rear planted in choppy race water. So go with the big rudder and turn fins as Tony suggested and you'll be good to go.

As for my boat, with the minor hull mods and .20 hardware (and hopefully a little less drag) I'm very happy the way it runs.

There you go, two totally different builds. Maybe Tony can talk Jeff into sending him to the east coast next year to decide which build is supreme.

 

[JSCARPINO]

Hello Joe,

There's several ways to skin a cat (er, Mono). I favor the SPD stinger, shortened to place the drive dog at the front tip of the rudder. At @ 9.5 lbs rtr in P-Mono trim, I recommend the SPD 60/90 rudders and XL fins to keep PLANTED in the turns. Tabs are large & 1/8" up from the bottom. There seems to be some misconception regarding stingers giving inadequate adjustability; I disagree. If you're going to the trouble of using a flood chamber, the stinger has enough vertical adjustability (see picture of the slotted mounting tabs) to find the sweet spot. If you need more, something's not right. I place the shaft center up 3/8" from the bottom of the Vee and that's that. The angle can be precisely and conveniently changed and monitored better than with a strut. There's two schools of thought regarding motor placement. I like 4" rails with rear-mount motor; the batteries can be nicely secured, easily adjusted for CG considerations, and on the centerline to minimize chine walk. The latest versions, for some months now, have the shorter strakes, btw.

For some reason (luck maybe?) the IB 34's that I've built don't seem to have the handling anomalies that some have reported.

To wet your appetite, here's a P-Mono heat in which two IB34's took first and second, beating out a DF33 & two Cyberstorms (one a clone). Mine & Mark's are the white ones. I let my Insane Teammate Mark pass on lap four since he got a one lap penalty for clobbering a buoy, but his faster (bigger motor) boat came in second, and I took the heat and class win.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0ixeztr-wE

My boat on left, and a customer's (red one) under construction, stinger detail, and my interior

If I can assist in any way :

[email protected]

Regards,

Tony

Insane Mob Race Team

Thank You Tony.....

Wow a lot to digest....I will try to accomadate both yours and Chilli's Ideas....

I guess the main problem I have Is that I want to run this hull both as a P-Spec Mono

& P-Mono By just swapping Motors and Packs.

Have you set one up Like that?

Joe

 

[JSCARPINO]

Tony is the factory Team member so listen to him. (except for stinger use, battery placement and rail width) :lol:

I kind of had a V8 moment and in hindsight have to agree with Tony that this hull in stock form likes big hardware hanging off the transom. My .20 rudder turns the boat just fine, but with it's smaller profile, even D mono turn fins were not enough to keep the rear planted in choppy race water. So go with the big rudder and turn fins as Tony suggested and you'll be good to go.

As for my boat, with the minor hull mods and .20 hardware (and hopefully a little less drag) I'm very happy the way it runs.

There you go, two totally different builds. Maybe Tony can talk Jeff into sending him to the east coast next year to decide which build is supreme.

Chilli

LOL I listen to any one who knows the boat better than I do......

Thanks for all your help....Now I just need to sit down and order parts.

Joe

 

[properchopper]

Joe, feel free to ask away on any aspect of the build; I'm here to help.

use : [email protected]

Tony

 

[jeepers]

Hello Joe,

There's several ways to skin a cat (er, Mono). I favor the SPD stinger, shortened to place the drive dog at the front tip of the rudder. At @ 9.5 lbs rtr in P-Mono trim, I recommend the SPD 60/90 rudders and XL fins to keep PLANTED in the turns. Tabs are large & 1/8" up from the bottom. There seems to be some misconception regarding stingers giving inadequate adjustability; I disagree. If you're going to the trouble of using a flood chamber, the stinger has enough vertical adjustability (see picture of the slotted mounting tabs) to find the sweet spot. If you need more, something's not right. I place the shaft center up 3/8" from the bottom of the Vee and that's that. The angle can be precisely and conveniently changed and monitored better than with a strut. There's two schools of thought regarding motor placement. I like 4" rails with rear-mount motor; the batteries can be nicely secured, easily adjusted for CG considerations, and on the centerline to minimize chine walk. The latest versions, for some months now, have the shorter strakes, btw.

For some reason (luck maybe?) the IB 34's that I've built don't seem to have the handling anomalies that some have reported.

To wet your appetite, here's a P-Mono heat in which two IB34's took first and second, beating out a DF33 & two Cyberstorms (one a clone). Mine & Mark's are the white ones. I let my Insane Teammate Mark pass on lap four since he got a one lap penalty for clobbering a buoy, but his faster (bigger motor) boat came in second, and I took the heat and class win.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0ixeztr-wE

My boat on left, and a customer's (red one) under construction, stinger detail, and my interior

If I can assist in any way :

[email protected]

Regards,

Tony

Insane Mob Race Team

cool video, but wow what a horrible start! looks like some of ours LOL!

 

[properchopper]

Hello Joe,

There's several ways to skin a cat (er, Mono). I favor the SPD stinger, shortened to place the drive dog at the front tip of the rudder. At @ 9.5 lbs rtr in P-Mono trim, I recommend the SPD 60/90 rudders and XL fins to keep PLANTED in the turns. Tabs are large & 1/8" up from the bottom. There seems to be some misconception regarding stingers giving inadequate adjustability; I disagree. If you're going to the trouble of using a flood chamber, the stinger has enough vertical adjustability (see picture of the slotted mounting tabs) to find the sweet spot. If you need more, something's not right. I place the shaft center up 3/8" from the bottom of the Vee and that's that. The angle can be precisely and conveniently changed and monitored better than with a strut. There's two schools of thought regarding motor placement. I like 4" rails with rear-mount motor; the batteries can be nicely secured, easily adjusted for CG considerations, and on the centerline to minimize chine walk. The latest versions, for some months now, have the shorter strakes, btw.

For some reason (luck maybe?) the IB 34's that I've built don't seem to have the handling anomalies that some have reported.

To wet your appetite, here's a P-Mono heat in which two IB34's took first and second, beating out a DF33 & two Cyberstorms (one a clone). Mine & Mark's are the white ones. I let my Insane Teammate Mark pass on lap four since he got a one lap penalty for clobbering a buoy, but his faster (bigger motor) boat came in second, and I took the heat and class win.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0ixeztr-wE

My boat on left, and a customer's (red one) under construction, stinger detail, and my interior

If I can assist in any way :

[email protected]

Regards,

Tony

Insane Mob Race Team

cool video, but wow what a horrible start! looks like some of ours LOL!

You didn't know ? New NAMBA rules require mill and first lap to be driven Blindfolded B)

 

[JSCARPINO]

Hello Joe,

There's several ways to skin a cat (er, Mono). I favor the SPD stinger, shortened to place the drive dog at the front tip of the rudder. At @ 9.5 lbs rtr in P-Mono trim, I recommend the SPD 60/90 rudders and XL fins to keep PLANTED in the turns. Tabs are large & 1/8" up from the bottom. There seems to be some misconception regarding stingers giving inadequate adjustability; I disagree. If you're going to the trouble of using a flood chamber, the stinger has enough vertical adjustability (see picture of the slotted mounting tabs) to find the sweet spot. If you need more, something's not right. I place the shaft center up 3/8" from the bottom of the Vee and that's that. The angle can be precisely and conveniently changed and monitored better than with a strut. There's two schools of thought regarding motor placement. I like 4" rails with rear-mount motor; the batteries can be nicely secured, easily adjusted for CG considerations, and on the centerline to minimize chine walk. The latest versions, for some months now, have the shorter strakes, btw.

For some reason (luck maybe?) the IB 34's that I've built don't seem to have the handling anomalies that some have reported.

To wet your appetite, here's a P-Mono heat in which two IB34's took first and second, beating out a DF33 & two Cyberstorms (one a clone). Mine & Mark's are the white ones. I let my Insane Teammate Mark pass on lap four since he got a one lap penalty for clobbering a buoy, but his faster (bigger motor) boat came in second, and I took the heat and class win.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0ixeztr-wE

My boat on left, and a customer's (red one) under construction, stinger detail, and my interior

If I can assist in any way :

[email protected]

Regards,

Tony

Insane Mob Race Team

cool video, but wow what a horrible start! looks like some of ours LOL!

You didn't know ? New NAMBA rules require mill and first lap to be driven Blindfolded B)

LOL....Too Funny Tony

 

[JSCARPINO]

Hello Joe,

There's several ways to skin a cat (er, Mono). I favor the SPD stinger, shortened to place the drive dog at the front tip of the rudder. At @ 9.5 lbs rtr in P-Mono trim, I recommend the SPD 60/90 rudders and XL fins to keep PLANTED in the turns. Tabs are large & 1/8" up from the bottom. There seems to be some misconception regarding stingers giving inadequate adjustability; I disagree. If you're going to the trouble of using a flood chamber, the stinger has enough vertical adjustability (see picture of the slotted mounting tabs) to find the sweet spot. If you need more, something's not right. I place the shaft center up 3/8" from the bottom of the Vee and that's that. The angle can be precisely and conveniently changed and monitored better than with a strut. There's two schools of thought regarding motor placement. I like 4" rails with rear-mount motor; the batteries can be nicely secured, easily adjusted for CG considerations, and on the centerline to minimize chine walk. The latest versions, for some months now, have the shorter strakes, btw.

For some reason (luck maybe?) the IB 34's that I've built don't seem to have the handling anomalies that some have reported.

To wet your appetite, here's a P-Mono heat in which two IB34's took first and second, beating out a DF33 & two Cyberstorms (one a clone). Mine & Mark's are the white ones. I let my Insane Teammate Mark pass on lap four since he got a one lap penalty for clobbering a buoy, but his faster (bigger motor) boat came in second, and I took the heat and class win.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0ixeztr-wE

My boat on left, and a customer's (red one) under construction, stinger detail, and my interior

If I can assist in any way :

[email protected]

Regards,

Tony

Insane Mob Race Team

cool video, but wow what a horrible start! looks like some of ours LOL!

Sean.....LOL we will correct that this weekend....

Looking forward to seeing you and your dad.

Joe