How to get into FE tunnel the right way.

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You're confused about series and parallel connections. Connecting 2 - 7.4 volt, 4200 mah packs in series gives 14.8 volts but still only 4200 mah. Connecting them in parallel gives 8400 mah but only 7.4 volts.

Lohring miller
Duh... your right. Brain cramp this morning. I'll scratch that statement so others don't get confused.
 
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Video is crappy cause no one else was at the pond so I had to set the camera on the drivers stand. It was also WAY to hot to stay long. (it's about a gazillion degrees today)

Boat: Shaman

Motor: Leopard 4082 - 2200kv

Prop: m445 s/b

Lower 3.5 OS

Batteries: Hyperion 4S 5000mah 45C

Esc: Swordfish 200A

The draw on a 4074 2200kv will be a little less without any noticeable change in speed. The 4082 is right on the edge on not making all 6 laps in a heat. The 4074 will have no problems finishing 6 laps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKO8Ql532EE
 
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Looks good Bill! You got her screamin' for sure! B)

Thanks for posting that! :D

-Kent
 
Video is crappy cause no one else was at the pond so I had to set the camera on the drivers stand. It was also WAY to hot to stay long. (it's about a gazillion degrees today)

Boat: Shaman

Motor: Leopard 4082 - 2200kv

Prop: m445 s/b

Lower 3.5 OS

Batteries: Hyperion 4S 5000mah 45C

Esc: Swordfish 200A

The draw on a 4074 2200kv will be a little less without any noticeable change in speed. The 4082 is right on the edge on not making all 6 laps in a heat. The 4074 will have no problems finishing 6 laps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKO8Ql532EE

Great video Bill. What length is that hull? It looks great on the water!!!
 
Video is crappy cause no one else was at the pond so I had to set the camera on the drivers stand. It was also WAY to hot to stay long. (it's about a gazillion degrees today)

Boat: Shaman

Motor: Leopard 4082 - 2200kv

Prop: m445 s/b

Lower 3.5 OS

Batteries: Hyperion 4S 5000mah 45C

Esc: Swordfish 200A

The draw on a 4074 2200kv will be a little less without any noticeable change in speed. The 4082 is right on the edge on not making all 6 laps in a heat. The 4074 will have no problems finishing 6 laps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKO8Ql532EE

Great video Bill. What length is that hull? It looks great on the water!!!
Video???????????????????????

huh?????

Sorry don't see it......

BTW the hull of Shaman is 31 inches long.

Ronald

Edit on 2 aug: video is there (again ? ).
 
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Good thread guys. For those of you looking to venture outside of the P-Limited setups I would strongly recommend purchasing a tool called an Eagle Tree data logger with GPS expander. A tool like this will allow you to track your continuous amp draw, voltage drop, mAHs consumed, continuous speed, temps, etc. The Castle Creations ICE ESCs also have data logging capabilities. It will help you explore different props and setups without putting your power systems at risk of melt down. When testing props I run for 45 seconds and then bring the boat in and analyze the data collected before doing longer run times.

Data logger: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=etr-MPRV4-LEADS-150

GPS expander: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=etr-GPS-v4

Temp sensors: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=etr-temp-micro

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=etr-temp-loop

For those of you interested in what the data from an Eagle Tree looks like I have attached a chart from one of my P-Limited setups.

Another tool that a FE racer should have in their tool box is a timer. Mine has a 2 minute count down and alerts me with an annoying beeper when the time is up. 1:45 - 2 minute run times are ideal for heat racing setups.

It is also good practice to keep a lipo log book. I number each of my packs and keep track of how many cycles are on each pack. This way you can research for yourself which packs you prefer.

Considering that this discussion is about outboards, it is good practice to use a quality anti-corrosion agent in the motors after a day of running. I prefer ACF-50 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/acf50.php Some use Corrosion X for this, but I have found it to gum up over time.

Affordable hatch tape is also important as you will go through a lot running FE boats... Many use hocky tape like Renfrew as it is fairly cheap at $2.99/roll http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=hatch-tape

H-6_EagleTree_Chart.jpg
 
Just a couple of things I will expend on what Sean has said.

In my opinion, the hockey tape (most of the time for me) is crap. If you have a blow over it will rip straight off and fill your boat with water. In the warmer climates it seems to work better, but I am still not happy with it. Think about the money inside the boat and what might happen if it gets soaked a few times.

I tend to use the (expensive) hatch tape (3m), but it still does come off...I need to find it in 3/4 - 1" wide?????

I also just spray metho into the endball of the motor to fill it up, drain out and repeat. Bearings are still great after 1.5-2 years.

Cheers

Kris
 
radio box 001.JPG

radio box 002.JPGradio box 003.JPGradio box 004.JPGradio box 005.JPG

I wanted to give an idea of one way to rig an FE radio box. This is not finished and the rx antenae will exit the front of the box and will turn vertical through a small straw for maximum reception. The ESC in this case is a Castle 240 which is larger than what you need for a 4S spec. It is for a 1515 Nue 2200kv open FE. I like the ESC as far to the back as possible to keep motor wires shorter. The Battery pack slips under the ESC and can move about an inch forward or back. This box is narrow as it intended to fit in a Shaman. 2 3/4 wide X 3 1/2 high tapering down in front to fit under a low cowl. It is 14" long and I would make it longer to shift battery weight even more. Servo and RX in the front. The box has velcro on the bottom, also in the hull and can be moved forward also to get correct trim. Can be moved from boat to boat also or easily taken out to work on. I also like to take the entire box and submerge it in a sink filled with water and see where it has any leaks and make adjustments before it goes in a boat on the water. My nitro boxes are all going in on velcro too. If you put a small block in the radio well with epxoy it will keep the box from moving to the rear.

I coat the wood with 5 min epoxy and sand and add a few layers on the top so tape will seal properly. 320 grit leaves a satin finish that works best for me. I also for years have used 3M packaging tape 2" wide to seal boxes. Cheap and availiable. On narrow tunnel boxes I dont use plexiglass as all it would do is hold up the tape anyway. The 4th photo is has tape sealed to the top. This is a quicky box and not finished yet. I have made 4 now and keep changing and improving. Hope this just gives someone who is not familiar with FE some ideas. Many ways to rig a box and this is just one.

Mic
 
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I would use a normal setting when you put that in the washer. Also use a little fabric softner and tumble dry on low for about 25 minutes....... :ph34r: ......... :lol: LOL!

Looks good Mic! The Neu 1515 1Y is a great motor. ;) Also like the motor mount extension.....that should add some extra MPH. Remy gave me that tip for my Aeromarine Predator Tunnel (1 1/2" extension) and the speed increase was very noticeable....

-Kent
 
heres one i finshed today

the radio box is made from carbon fiber sheet and i put it together just like ply i used 2mm square rod around the top of the radio box some make a snug fit for the lid carbon fiber 6mm tube to go through for the esc wires then heat shrink to seal it

most important cut is the curve of the hull. i just traced the cowl bottom edge

vs1.JPG

vs12.JPG

radio box.JPG
 
After testing this weekend with a K&B 7.5 foot, I have to backtrack a little.

The K&B foot on a P Tunnel Shaman definitely settles the boat and power down a lot. Boat is very manageable. You can still get into trouble if you roll the power on to hard, but the Shaman really likes the K&B foot.
 
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hey bill my esc gets a little warm and was thinking ....i know a bad thing for me to do......but....what if i put a Y in gthe water line..one line to motor and one to esc...think it would get more water to esc or just a waste of time?
 
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hi guys...

I'm doing a P-Spec O/B tunnel too... just wondering what a good starting point for CofG is with these boats? I am also doing a CNC routed radio box to suit the hull I have. Will post pictures when finished. I will be running a lawless leg with a UL1 motor - turnigy 120A ESC. Is the water jacket necessary on this setup or just an added level of safety? Thanks for any help forthcoming...
 
You will need the water jacket.

As for CG, what hull are you going to run? CG will be the same as for nitro.
 
hey bill my esc gets a little warm and was thinking ....i know a bad thing for me to do......but....what if i put a Y in gthe water line..one line to motor and one to esc...think it would get more water to esc or just a waste of time?
You should have water going to both, I run mine from the pickup, to the esc, then to the motor, then out.
 
You will need the water jacket.

As for CG, what hull are you going to run? CG will be the same as for nitro.
Thanks Bill... I don't run nitro O/B hence the question. Mono's run around 33% of the hull length. Thought there might be a similar setup for O/B tunnel? Hull is a glass no-name one.. Looks like I'll have to make up a cooler..
 
Thanks Tim... it's all together, hope to give it a run on Monday. I have a 3 blade Octura 437 prop that is fitted.. Should be ok I think..
 

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