How to get into FE tunnel the right way.

Greg Johnson · Jan 4, 2017

Thanks!

Bradley Ward · Jan 16, 2017

Any Hull recommendations?

HTV Boats · Jul 29, 2017

I was at the pond testing with Bill Britton last week and we talked about this thread. The bad thing here is it was pinned so long ago it goes dormant. Maybe anything pinned should go to an archive file somewhere after a couple years. Anyway reading today I see a newer boater asked a question and it hasn't been answered in 8 months. Since the FE forum is not real crowded I will start a new thread to answer his question about hulls.

FYI: For FE spec or 36X61 motors search Google for Flycolor 150 amp ESC's. Anywhere from $45-52 bucks and a great inexpensive controller. The OSE Raider 150 program card works with Flycolor ESC.s.

Mic

Randell Doane · Jul 29, 2017

Bradley Ward said:
Any Hull recommendations?

The BBY carbon fiber hull is pretty neat, I'd recommend it

Greg Pruss · Oct 3, 2021

Bill Britton said:
Gabe

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P-Spec;

Lynx hull

Aquacraft 2030 motor $69

Aquacraft 7011 Esc $89

OSE Cooling Jacket $18

Turnigy 4S 40c 5000mah batteries $50

OS Lower unit conversion kit $35

Turnigy batteries are here;

http://www.hobbyking...idProduct=14985

Motor, Esc, and cooling jacket can be had as a kit here for $162;

http://www.offshoree...d=dh-aqcom-2030

OS Lower unit conversion kit is here. (Hyperformance also makes a kit for the lawless as well);

http://hyperprod.biz...ersion_kit.html

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P-Tunnel;

Shaman hull

Leopard 4082 (2200kv) Motor $100 (Although a Leopard 4074 2200kv is probably just as good if not a better choice)

Swordfish 200 Esc $100

Cooling Jacket $16

Hyperion 4S 45C 5000mah Batteries $125 (you can also use the same Turnigy batteries used in the P-Spec)

OS Lower unit conversion kit $35

Leopard motor is here;

http://www.offshoree...eo-4082&cat=148

Swordfish 200 Esc here;

http://www.offshoree...hef-sword-200lv

Leopard cooling jacket is here;

http://www.offshoree...leo-4068-jacket

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Here are the threads with my P-Spec and full P.

P-Spec: http://www.intlwater...showtopic=44936

Full P: http://www.intlwater...showtopic=47010

/B

The batteries posted are interesting. I have been using SMC batteries and abusing the dickens out of them. They are race spec. Proformance for me at has been out of site.
This is my two cents on the above subject. Bill DOES KNOW what he talking about. This message is for the retired guy who wants retro-build and to go fast.
Prather fiberglass Hulls were known for winning back in the 70's and they are still manufactured by Hyperformance this is still a fast hull. My go to lower end is the new style K&B lower end number MECOA 50-4803. I do know that the race guys prefer the O.S. lower end. PARTS for the K&B lower end are abundant they have been manufactuired for a long time.
There has been some whining that the K&B prop shaft falls short of durability. This has been addressed by Hyperfomance part # PSA75. (I am not affiliated with Hyperformance I just like there stuff)
Motors that are speced here are missing some vitals.
For example; my favorite motor for my Dumas shallow draft tunnel Hull HOT SHOT SPRINT was Aqucraft 36-56-1800kv which I just smoked recently. Wild ride for a wooden 70's hull which is a little heavy.
The Aqucraft 36-56-1800kv. 36 is the diameter, 56 length, 1800kv revolutions per volt.
Input voltage 7v. to 18.5V... not true smoked at 14.8 volts
Max current 50 A
Max surge 80 A for 5 sec. I went well beyond that with a SMC 3 cell batterie. The tunnel was dancing on the outboard leg.
The next motor will be a SSS 40-92-1650 note larger diameter, longer length, lower KV rating. WHY? The trade off here is weight. This is a heaver motor. Weight is the enemy. But look at the motor specs.
First off, the hot shot sprint is a 7.5 or a .45 size tunnel it is a good size boat. As you get older it is a good idea to go bigger just to see the thing "blasting off"
Max. Amps 127A
Max Volts 33V
So at 11.1 volts the motor will turn 18,315. 11.1V X 1,650 RPM
at 14.8 volts the motor will turn 24,420 not as fast as I would like but, quick enough.
The recommended RPM not to exceed 30,000. For the lower end ( i received from off shore elec.)
This gives some idea how to balance out all the components for a longer life of the motor. The smallest ESC I use is a 120 amp and It come back to shore "warm". It is water cooled.
Temp is the indicator of how your balance went. Too small a prop low temp on the motor. Too big of a prop the motor temp is high. Props are also effected by how much water they grab. You can raise the outboard motor grab less water (nice rooster tail ). The overall goal in prop rooster tail is very little. What I'm saying here there is so many things to take Into account. I find it so interesting.
Where I live, noise is a factor, speed is a factor. I hope I did not bore any of you with my writing I just felt some off the stuff gone over might be over some heads. Regards,