How to get into FE tunnel the right way.

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Hey Ron,

I ran a Castle 1518 1600Kv motor, Turnigy 180 speed controller (or swardfish 240 now) and Entropy 6s 5800's (also ran a 6000mah Turnigy 50c or so), M445 prop. This was on a Vision 40 hull.

I think those that were there can speak for its performance
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This is great info and a lot of help Kris. Thank you. Sounds like around 35k RPM is a good range to shoot for.
 
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I am using the 1520/1600kv Castle/Castle 240 and running 6000ma Dinogys turning an M445 cut down a little to 43-44mm. An M545 will pick up 4-5 mph but not make 6 laps without stressing the batteries. Another prop we use is a 45X68 Grimracer.

Mic
 
Thanks Mic. Great information. I have a 2200kv motor, can't remember where it came from. Looking at your and Kris's feedback, its probably a better fit for a P Tunnel instead of a Q.
 
A simple question about the P Class rules.

IMPBA rules state 34" max length. Is that the hull only or does that include the drive too?
and to elaborate further on Rons answer of hull only. If you have a box that is 34" on the inside, the hull has to fit inside it. ie the hull cannot be 34" long then have 1/2" long ride pad extensions out the back (removabletrim tabs are a different story though)
 
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Thank you. Doesn't get any easier than that.

Edit : in reply to clarification about P-Class rules for hulls.
 
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I just saw a post that Castle is no longer making Marine ESC's. I am probably slow and this is old news LOL.

Looks like having the MGM's to offer makes even more sense now.
 
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Yes Ron...OLD (sad) news I'm afraid...

Loved the old 240 Hydra...have a couple of the newer 240 Ice ' s on hand...hopefully they will serve me well..

You should be in good shape with an MGM...
 
Listen to what Mic has to offer...All ears on his numerous researches on FE tunnels...He has researched and tested so you don't have a lot of work to do...
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Ron,

The 1515/2200kv motor on a light Shaman size hull, going to 5S or 6S will compete speed wise with the larger 1520/1600kv setups. Bigger boat more weight takes rougher water conditions. Just use a .45 foot for more stability. As for Castle they still make the aircraft ESC's which many have converted. The MGM would be my next choice if I needed more than a T-180 which is a great controller for the money.

Mic

Thanks for the kind words Kent. I have tried many combinations and P with a 2200kv and Q at 1600kv seem to be the sweet spot for tunnels. Add voltage to either and they work well for SAW runs.
 
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a few qestions , just finishing my first p spec build and wonder how you test for heat if everything is taped in the box ? what are the step to take for the first time testing the boat . also are my props for my nitro tunnels to small , 1440 , gr 40x53 ect

cheers
 
If you want to check for heat on a 6 lap setup run 4 hard laps bring your boat in and untape then check motor,ESC, and battery temps. Cool and recharge then do 5 laps and six checking temps. A lot of screwing around at first but you will learn what you need for your boat and not go thermal. An ESC with data logging will give you the information but you still have to open your box to hook up a PC. Or go big and back off after you smoke the weakest link in your system.

Mic
 
There is quite a lot of good information to digest on the topic of FE P Spec tunnels. What I've noticed is the last post was in July 2015. Knowing that manufacturers of motors, esc's and batteries are ever improving their offerings I wonder if I can ask for some updated information for someone wanting to put together a P Spec tunnel. I'm not looking to decide what tunnel to run. More of what would you recommend a beginner buy, motor, esc and batteries, that wants to be competitive in this class? I know there will be more than one answer to this question based on reading the information already listed here, so just get me to a good starting point that I can move forward from.

Thanks in advance!
 
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