Using scale and blocks to balance round nose

[Ron Zaker Jr]

What kind of number is close for a round nose sitting on blocks (under frts at trailing edge) with the strut on a digital scale. I have never done it this way ,just asking .Thx.

 

[rctinman]

Hey Ron, what you're talking about is tail weight. I'm not sure what that should be, but the balance point of a roundnose should be around 90% of the distance from the sponson transom, and the rear transom. The tail weight would vary from hull to hull due to total weight.

Hope this helps.
Steve

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

Hey Ron, what you're talking about is tail weight. I'm not sure what that should be, but the balance point of a roundnose should be around 90% of the distance from the sponson transom, and the rear transom. The tail weight would vary from hull to hull due to total weight.

Hope this helps.
Steve

Thanks Steve..

 

[DON MAHER]

Ron,
Don’t know if this will help. Many years ago I had a great running MTO round nose 1/8 scale that had 4oz. of tail weight!

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

Ron,
Don’t know if this will help. Many years ago I had a great running MTO round nose 1/8 scale that had 4oz. of tail weight!

Thank you Don ,I am messing around with different set ups.

 

[Mike Cathey]

If you really want to see where you are at put scales under the back of each sponson running surfaces and remove the prop and set the stub shaft on the scale (or a piece of foam to block it up until the bottom is level). This will give you not only fore and aft, but side to side percentages.

Because each boat is a different weight every boat will have a different and specific prop weight. Percentages are the key equalizer, but that's only a starting point. I've had boats come out of the same mold and they are never exactly the same in terms of set up. You get close and put it on the water and start adjusting from there by how the boat ride is. But of course, the faster the boat gets you will have to keep making alterations.

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

If you really want to see where you are at put scales under the back of each sponson running surfaces and remove the prop and set the stub shaft on the scale (or a piece of foam to block it up until the bottom is level). This will give you not only fore and aft, but side to side percentages.

Because each boat is a different weight every boat will have a different and specific prop weight. Percentages are the key equalizer, but that's only a starting point. I've had boats come out of the same mold and they are never exactly the same in terms of set up. You get close and put it on the water and start adjusting from there by how the boat ride is. But of course, the faster the boat gets you will have to keep making alterations.

thank you

 

[SayMikey]

Dont beat yourself up on tail weight Id think as much as a pound is ok. When you get to testing try moving a water bottle around in the boat. We had a thunderboat that we ended up adding weight to the tail to get it to perform

 

[Marty Davis]

Thank you Don ,I am messing around with different set ups.

Ron:

My Vernors had almost no tail weight. It made the boat accelerate really well. I could set the boat on the table and the rear of the boat was just tetering on the front sponsons. Turn fin was moved as far forward as I could get it also.

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

Dont beat yourself up on tail weight Id think as much as a pound is ok. When you get to testing try moving a water bottle around in the boat. We had a thunderboat that we ended up adding weight to the tail to get it to perform

thank you

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

Dont beat yourself up on tail weight Id think as much as a pound is ok. When you get to testing try moving a water bottle around in the boat. We had a thunderboat that we ended up adding weight to the tail to get it to perform

thx Mike