TS2 kibbles and bits

[Jerry Wyss]

Ahh, We're just spoiled on "good oil" over here I guess, Klotz is just Too Good to ignore,

I use it in practically every motor I run.

There's nothing wrong with a little castor in the fuel and with some fuels that are out there

it might be cheap insurance. We're pretty fortunate in this country to have such a vast fuel

selection and reliable nitro sources,, it just makes you wonder how long it will last.

I remember owning a Fox "Eagle 60" airplane engine, Now That Motor Required Castor!

It had 2 rings on the piston, as thick as a "nickel" each :lol: You had to use an "eye drop"

thingy and sqeeze drops of castor in the carb to keep it from siezing while breaking it in

on the test stand castor was the best we had then. Now, synthetics have met or

exceeded the performance of castor in almost all two-stroke engines,, and even the

cars we drive to work in are compatible with mostly synthetic oils, no?

Those water nipples can be pointed in either direction you show, Just don't run full bore

water thru them if you want a good break-in,, let alone full potential running.

Oh, just in case, Don't bore out the exhaust exits,, they'er fine just the way they are.

 

[Nitrolizer]

Now, synthetics have met or exceeded the performance of castor in almost all two-stroke engines,, and even the cars we drive to work in are compatible with mostly synthetic oils, no?

Oh, just in case, Don't bore out the exhaust exits,, they'er fine just the way they are.

Then maybe the clerk at the hobbyshop had a point? Because if synthetics have exceeded the lubing performance of castor oils, then maybe synthetic oil is lubing all the parts in the engine too good, making the parts never to rub against each other which will cause the engine never to be broken in? :unsure:

Don't worry, I wasn't planning on touching the exhaust exits anyway. Why would I ever want to do that? Are people actually doing this? :blink: Why's that?

Here’s a tip when putting your TS2 together, go out and buy 4 #6-32 X ¾” long STAINLESS STEEL Allen CAP SCREWS for your motor mounts. The standard steel ones that come with the boat will rust on the INSIDE, and when you go to loosen them to make a engine height adjustment the brass inserts will back out (not fun to repair) . I also used a little anti-seize on the stainless screws, but not sure if this is necessary. Will save a lot of headaches !

Anyone else who has done this, just like Ralphie? Are there anyone else except from Ralphie that have had any problems with the motor mount cap screws provided?

What about the threaded inserts? Are the ones provided good enough, or should I go for inserts with better quality?

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Oh, just in case, Don't bore out the exhaust exits,, they'er fine just the way they are.

Then maybe the clerk at the hobbyshop had a point? Because if synthetics have exceeded the lubing performance of castor oils, then maybe synthetic oil is lubing all the parts in the engine too good, making the parts never to rub against each other which will cause the engine never to be broken in? :unsure:

Don't worry, I wasn't planning on touching the exhaust exits anyway. Why would I ever want to do that? Are people actually doing this? :blink: Why's that?

It's going to "wear in" using oil between the moving parts , that's the function of oil, to keep the moving parts from scrubbing against each other and also for carrying away heat. Allot of research has went into the developement of these lubricants and it wasn't easy to eclipse the benefits that castor has.

But castor has some drawbacks, build-up in the combustion chamber which decreases

tolerance between moving parts.

From what I have seen, it can't be avoided,, research continued to develope a lube that did not have this problem thru synthetics. Many formulas failed thru the years mostly due to impropper mixing ratios and some just plain failures.

Build-up in a ringed engine can shorten engine life, another reason synthetics were developed.

In the age of computer controlled engine part manufacturing parts were able to be made to much closer and consistant design tolerance. Formulas were tested extensively to develope a lube that had the film strength of castor, the ability to cling to moving parts, withstand high heat operation for extended periods of time and would operate with a "thinner" protective barrier,,oh and also not turn everything dark brown.

Can you imagine the average snomobile operating it's entire life on castor only?hmmm

How about motorcycle racing, how many do you think run castor in their race bikes?

I think synthetic lubricants and their developers have earned their place here, even thru all the horror stories.

Exhaust exits: some really smart guy's found that the stock sized exhaust outlets were the right size after some had opened theirs. It was just a word of caution,, hey, I'm just trying to help, you don't want it, ignore it.

 

[chuck]

If you blow your boat over and the motor gets wet the Klotz will not help you. The castor will! Snythetic oil and water is a no no! That's why you NEED castor. Castor sticks to the engine parts. Bearings love castor. I run 80% klotz and 20% castor.

 

[Jerry Wyss]

They also like a good after run oil.

The original discusion was concerning the use of 100% castor in the fuel for breaking-in

an O.S.XM.

 

[Nitrolizer]

Exhaust exits: some really smart guy's found that the stock sized exhaust outlets were the right size after some had opened theirs. It was just a word of caution,, hey, I'm just trying to help, you don't want it, ignore it.

Ehh, what? I was just asking why people open up their exhausts, it was just a question I had like any other. I can't believe you got offended by that :blink:

As I have already wrote so many times, I'm grateful for all the info and help I get here, from both you and everyone else.

Chuck,

I guess it was a good guess to have a balance of 80/20 between synthetic and castor oil in the fuel then

After mixing the oils, how many % of oil du you have in your fuel?

 

[piper_chuck]

Did I click on the wrong thread? I thought this one was about a boat!

 

[chuck]

Nitrolizer

I like to run 20% oil.

 

[Nitrolizer]

Did I click on the wrong thread? I thought this one was about a boat!

:lol: Yes, the last posts have been a little off-topic, but I've had some questions regarding the engine that is used on this particular boat, which would be an 3.5cc outboard engine. So in a way, I find it kind of related to the topic anyway And besides, what place is better to ask than here, where everyone else is using a 3.5cc outboard?

Nitrolizer

I like to run 20% oil.

Ok, cool. Thanks.

Did you also use the same kind of fuel for the break-in?

 

[chuck]

Yes I did. I added a few more oz of castor for break -in.

 

[Nitrolizer]

I found new inserts the next size up at ACE Hardware today and they are of better quality.

I did exactly the same thing! Yesterday, after drilling the holes for the original threaded inserts, the tabs broke off when I was to screw them into the transom. I've read earlier in this thread that others had the same problem too, so I wasn't very surprised when it happened... <_<

By the time I just got tired of the bad quality of the threaded inserts provided, and I also knew that the screws for the inserts were not of stainless steel-type. So I gave up the idea of using the original ones. Instead, I went to the hardware store and bought new inserts, they are a little bigger than the ones provided but that't not a problem. I'll just have to drill up the holes in the transom a little more.

I also bought four stainless steel allen head screws fitting the new threaded inserts. I'm not sure if the new threaded inserts are stainless steel, but I know the screws are.

I will try to mount the new threaded inserts tomorrow. I hope the tabs won't break on these too, but they seem to be of better quality.

Maybe this is somehow all in the past now... But of those who drilled the holes too large, instead of filling up the holes and re-drill them over again, to me it would seem easier to just buy new threaded inserts in a larger size. At the same time, you'll get the advantage of having threaded inserts of better quality than the ones provided.

Below is an image of the new screws & inserts compared to the old ones.

Yes I did. I added a few more oz of castor for break -in.

For how many tanks did you break-in the engine before starting to lean it? And what about the water cooling, did you reduce the waterflow during break-in?

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

I found new inserts the next size up at ACE Hardware today and they are of better quality.

I did exactly the same thing! Yesterday, after drilling the holes for the original threaded inserts, the tabs broke off when I was to screw them into the transom. I've read earlier in this thread that others had the same problem too, so I wasn't very surprised when it happened... <_<

By the time I just got tired of the bad quality of the threaded inserts provided, and I also knew that the screws for the inserts were not of stainless steel-type. So I gave up the idea of using the original ones. Instead, I went to the hardware store and bought new inserts, they are a little bigger than the ones provided but that't not a problem. I'll just have to drill up the holes in the transom a little more.

I also bought four stainless steel allen head screws fitting the new threaded inserts. I'm not sure if the new threaded inserts are stainless steel, but I know the screws are.

I will try to mount the new threaded inserts tomorrow. I hope the tabs won't break on these too, but they seem to be of better quality.

Maybe this is somehow all in the past now... But of those who drilled the holes too large, instead of filling up the holes and re-drill them over again, to me it would seem easier to just buy new threaded inserts in a larger size. At the same time, you'll get the advantage of having threaded inserts of better quality than the ones provided.

Below is an image of the new screws & inserts compared to the old ones.

Yes I did. I added a few more oz of castor for break -in.

For how many tanks did you break-in the engine before starting to lean it? And what about the water cooling, did you reduce the waterflow during break-in?

Run three or four tanks through the engine. I suggest you just leave the water flow alone. Look at the size of the opening in the water inlet on the ride plate - it's not all that big.

JD

 

[Nitrolizer]

Yeah, I can see you're right about that when taking a look at the water cooling pickup. I may not experiment with the water cooling after all...

Is the hole in this pickup of different size on the different brands of engines, or is it exactly the same size on K&B and TT engines as on the OS?

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Yeah, I can see you're right about that when taking a look at the water cooling pickup. I may not experiment with the water cooling after all...

Is the hole in this pickup of different size on the different brands of engines, or is it exactly the same size on K&B and TT engines as on the OS?

The pickup tube on the K&B SX is much bigger. Seems like the one on the TT is smaller like the O.S.

JD

 

[Nitrolizer]

Ok, thanks JD.

What have you guys done to make sure the engine won't sink to the bottom of the lake in the unlucky event it was to fall off the transom during a run? Have you used a fishing line or something similar to that? What places on the engine and the boat have you used to secure this safeline?

 

[piper_chuck]

Ok, thanks JD.

What have you guys done to make sure the engine won't sink to the bottom of the lake in the unlucky event it was to fall off the transom during a run? Have you used a fishing line or something similar to that? What places on the engine and the boat have you used to secure this safeline?

Unless your mounting bolts and steering & throttle linkages are really loose, the engine will stay attached to the boat.

 

[BigRed]

Hello to all!!

It´s been very busy getting my life back in line after a 6 monh vacation Had a couple minutes free to get in here and see what´s going on...

Nitrolizer... as you can see on fuel, oil and break in methods yo have enough to have a debate longer than politics or religion Honestly I have no idea of the lubricants on the fuels... The labels usually say something like castor + anti rust + special bla bla bla so I really don´t know the results on the break in...

I have never broken in a engine with break in fuel... I always wanted to but there´s no such thing available here in Panama... and then I was at the Novarossi web page and they recomended breaking in the engine with the same fuel that the engine was going to be ran with... Now this is beween 10% and 25% nitro... I would´nt break in with 65% like the boats... That´s intended for car engines also and I knew that the thunder tiger engine I had is actually a car engine adapted to a lower unit so I applied the same things I did on cars.... As you should be clear the must do is run very rich.... if you do that you would be in good shape...

The inserts on the transom were very fragile getting the stainless ones were the best thing you could do... I´ve also read around here that people will cut a access hole on the top piece of the transom to just have screws go through and then attach large washers with nuts on the inside that sounds like a good idea... In the meantime I still have my brass ones in there

I´ve been so busy this day´s tha I Havn´t used the TS2 over here yet... maybe this weekend...

Javier

 

[topfuel443]

I break in and run all of my motors with 60% nitro, 16% Synthetic Cool power Kart oil, and no castor. I Have no problems with motor failures. I mix my own fuel.

just another point of view....

~James

 

[John Knight]

I break in and run all of my motors with 60% nitro, 16% Synthetic Cool power Kart oil, and no castor. I Have no problems with motor failures. I mix my own fuel.

just another point of view....

~James

You still mix your own??????? Humm, interesting.

 

[topfuel443]

yep, I took a gallon of oil over hear with me. My local hobby shop just started mixing his own brand of fuel and he now sells me nitro and alchohol by the liter. not as cheap as it was in the states because of the almighty Euro, but its better that $60 euro a gallon pre-made. Going to run this weekend with the stuff.... When the oil runs out, I will be using what they use, some stuff mde by Bel-Ray.

Thanks for the concern John...

~Gabe