Trey Adams
Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2025
- Messages
- 19
Hey guys, so I hope this is ok, I know there are a few well documented Wild Thing builds already here. I remember drooling over John Finch’s original build article as a young guy, but my wooden building days were still a few years away at that point. And more recently Dirks YouTube videos really looped me into moving forward here. Nothing custom
In mine, I did the ML 32 fe kit and it’s a bargain as far as I’m concerned to not have to rough cut the parts! It’s such a cool design. I have a bit of a fast outboard background and when I look at this hull I get Allison, Hydro stream and Hydra sport design out of it, no idea if it’s designed after any of those, but all of them are among my favorite go fast real boats!
Anyway, I just wanted to have a documented thread on my build and get some more advice along the way and maybe aid someone down the line on their build.
I’m about 2/3 complete with mine, basically as soon as I decide on trim tab location, motor mounting and how I’m going to do my wet well, I’m otherwise ready to glue the deck on.
No flaming here lol, but my boat is built 100% with CA glue. I’ve used this method for many years with my electric race boat builds and never had a failure because of a glue joint. I do plan on adding some cloth and resin down the inner keel, and up the transom, but wanted to do some test fitting before. And of course the full inside and outside will be coated. In years past I’ve just used both brushed on varnish and canned varieties. Im considering staining then using resin on this one just because picked up a new container of resin for doing the reinforcements. That’s still up in the air though.
Last nite I mounted the strut, rudder and turn fins. All the hardware is from Zippkits, really nice stuff by the way! I have a set of trim tabs and I know they are not 100% needed, but since this will essentially be a play boat, I wanted the adjustability. Anyhow, I was wondering how far off the keel you guys think I should go. I kind of limited myself with my rudder choice and placement, and the stringers in the hull, kinda limit me to basically use the two mount points and straddling the stringer, then my rudder mount adds another issue with adjusting the tabs. The prop will be in clean water either way, but any suggestions on a distance from the keel to inner tab edge?
My stuffing tube will be set up using a 1/4 od brass tube inside a 1/2 od brass tube as a wet well. I have a couple ideas in my head how I’m going to do it, but I’m waiting on my batteries to come in so I can decide on a layout. I’ve always built my monos with rear motor set ups, but this is my first build using a wet well so I may need to rethink things a bit, but I need to figure out cg first.
With a suggestion from this site I decided on running 2 Roaring Top 4s 5000 mah 70c packs for a 4s2p set up. And I have a 150 amp fly color esc.
Here’s some pictures so far of the build.
Thanks for looking everyone!
Trey
In mine, I did the ML 32 fe kit and it’s a bargain as far as I’m concerned to not have to rough cut the parts! It’s such a cool design. I have a bit of a fast outboard background and when I look at this hull I get Allison, Hydro stream and Hydra sport design out of it, no idea if it’s designed after any of those, but all of them are among my favorite go fast real boats!
Anyway, I just wanted to have a documented thread on my build and get some more advice along the way and maybe aid someone down the line on their build.
I’m about 2/3 complete with mine, basically as soon as I decide on trim tab location, motor mounting and how I’m going to do my wet well, I’m otherwise ready to glue the deck on.
No flaming here lol, but my boat is built 100% with CA glue. I’ve used this method for many years with my electric race boat builds and never had a failure because of a glue joint. I do plan on adding some cloth and resin down the inner keel, and up the transom, but wanted to do some test fitting before. And of course the full inside and outside will be coated. In years past I’ve just used both brushed on varnish and canned varieties. Im considering staining then using resin on this one just because picked up a new container of resin for doing the reinforcements. That’s still up in the air though.
Last nite I mounted the strut, rudder and turn fins. All the hardware is from Zippkits, really nice stuff by the way! I have a set of trim tabs and I know they are not 100% needed, but since this will essentially be a play boat, I wanted the adjustability. Anyhow, I was wondering how far off the keel you guys think I should go. I kind of limited myself with my rudder choice and placement, and the stringers in the hull, kinda limit me to basically use the two mount points and straddling the stringer, then my rudder mount adds another issue with adjusting the tabs. The prop will be in clean water either way, but any suggestions on a distance from the keel to inner tab edge?
My stuffing tube will be set up using a 1/4 od brass tube inside a 1/2 od brass tube as a wet well. I have a couple ideas in my head how I’m going to do it, but I’m waiting on my batteries to come in so I can decide on a layout. I’ve always built my monos with rear motor set ups, but this is my first build using a wet well so I may need to rethink things a bit, but I need to figure out cg first.
With a suggestion from this site I decided on running 2 Roaring Top 4s 5000 mah 70c packs for a 4s2p set up. And I have a 150 amp fly color esc.
Here’s some pictures so far of the build.
Thanks for looking everyone!
Trey
