1/6 Scale Gas Miss Timex Build

[Rich Jones]

So after a few weeks of building a jig, sourcing cowl, driver, dummy engine, graphics, etc… I finally got started framing up my 1971 Miss Timex . I’ve posted on Facebook as well. Getting ready to add stringers. This is a ML Boatworks no.101 frame kit, Master hull no 7008. I had the Newton plans enlarged to 120% to better use as a guide for building and to have full size templates if I need to repair the boat.

 

[andy fraser]

Rich , I am so stealing that boat shelf design. Need the room.

 

[Roxyflash]

I like how the center spline is screwed to the jig should be a nice straight build so far looks like a easy straight forward build.Next year I’m going to do a 1/6 scale build will be keeping tabs on your build!

 

[Rich Jones]

Rich , I am so stealing that boat shelf design. Need the room.

They are light and they roll. But it’s a lot of PVC fittings so not exactly cheap.

 

[Rich Jones]

I like how the center spline is screwed to the jig should be a nice straight build so far looks like a easy straight forward build.Next year I’m going to do a 1/6 scale build will be keeping tabs on your build!

I also screwed the sponson insides to the side of the jig to lock them into position. I added some more stringers and took the hull off of the jig tonight in order to work on the bottom with stringers and such. I’m attaching a pic with the boat standing on the transom. Thus far, nice and straight and no discernible twist. I’m also going to add some smaller 1/8 square basswood to the frames going across to increase gluing area. Once the bottom and non trips are on, I’ll add fiberglass to reinforce key areas of stress. I’ll probably add some wood reinforcement as well in the area of the strut and around the stuffing tube and engine well.

 

[donald dunlap]

Looking good.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

This is a ML Boatworks no.101 frame kit, Master hull no 7008. I had the Newton plans enlarged to 120% to better use as a guide for building and to have full size templates if I need to repair the boat.

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Rich, if you haven't done so yet, I would check with Mike to see if he's changed anything from Roger's original plans. I know some of his kits have had parts changed for various reasons so it's possible that parts made from the original Newton plans may not fit without modifications.
Just a thought, if you want to save a little bit of weight, either sand or cut your 1/8" glue blocks diagonally to remove half of the mass. You will still have the same glueing area but only half the weight.

 

[Rich Jones]

I traced the parts from the frame kit, so I can do comparisons to the plans if necessary . I don’t believe there were too many changes on this one. Understood on the sticks and the weight. Honestly I probably wouldn’t bother with the 1/8 in sticks but I’d consider for the 1/4” sticks if I hadn’t glued most of them in already. Since the Newton plans call for 1/4 in sticks for stringers, the MLB kits come this way. The 1/4 in. Sticks are tougher to deal with from a bending standpoint and I’ve had to make some kerf cuts in prefer to get them to bend without tweaking the hull out of shape or breaking altogether on some of them. It’s all good though, very nice frame kits IMO. That’s the one thing I’d do different is to use 1/8x1/4 instead of 1/4 square.

 

[Rich Jones]

Fast forward a few days, all stringers and gluing supports are in the bottom, as well as 1/4 doublers for engine rails (I’m using 1” thick isolators instead of 3/4. So between the 2-1/4 in doublers, one each side, and 1/4”in longer isolators, I close the engine well back to 5in, from the 6 in I started with. (Thank you Chris Herzog for hashing this out with me!). Also I added a 1/8” doubler for the turn fin to make that area 1/4” in total. That will further have a 3/16” piece of aluminum glasssd in behind it once the sponson bottoms go on. Today I sanded mostly. The bottom is about complete the sponson bottoms are complete, and one sponson side and one non trip are finished. I have one side to go on those and I’ll be ready to put the non trips on and then look at getting the bottom on.

 

[ChrisHerzog]

Looks great!

 

[Rich Jones]

Thanks. Getting there. Much to do.

 

[Rich Jones]

Non-Trips are on and sanded. Something had me thinking I could just eyeball the pieces for these and cut them out. I knew better than this but went ahead anyway. After I ruined that piece of plywood, I decided to get some poster board and made a template. The results were much better. I’ll be able to use those cut pieces for something else down the line but still annoyed with myself for getting a bit lazy. Anyway, time to measure and make templates for the bottom pieces.

 

[kcvnd]

Looking very nice!

 

[Rich Jones]

Looking very nice!

Thank you!

 

[Rich Jones]

Boat clamped to the jig awaiting epoxy joining the bottom to cure overnight. If I had to pick my two least favorite things about building boats, it would be bottoms and decks with decks coming in first and the whole clamping operation and trying to get everything done before the glue kicks off, and then painting. It’s not the painting, it’s the damn prep. Anyway, the bottom was attached in four pieces. Epoxy was applied to the frame and each bottom piece was tacked with thick CA at the break in the hull to keep them from moving as I flipped the boat over on the jig for clamping. I had to do it this way because the wood I have for the bottom is only 12 in wide. For the decks I’ve since bought 2x4 1/16 ply from Aircraft Spruce. Next up will be the sponson side and bottom skins.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Rich, I wouldn't get too upset over the parts not initially fitting if I were you. I'm sure anyone that's built a boat has made some sort of mistake that caused parts to not fit. It took me two Dumas kit builds to figure out that I needed to cut all parts oversized and sand them to fit. I've done that on almost every part of every boat I've built since, with better results than trying to cut the parts for an exact fit. It's also a bit more difficult to build from plans rather than starting with a kit so the parts require more fitting to make sure they fit correctly. In my case, since I like to make multiple changes in my builds, kits don't normally work that well for me since I'd be replacing at least half of the parts in the process

 

[Rich Jones]

Rich, I wouldn't get too upset over the parts not initially fitting if I were you. I'm sure anyone that's built a boat has made some sort of mistake that caused parts to not fit. It took me two Dumas kit builds to figure out that I needed to cut all parts oversized and sand them to fit. I've done that on almost every part of every boat I've built since, with better results than trying to cut the parts for an exact fit. It's also a bit more difficult to build from plans rather than starting with a kit so the parts require more fitting to make sure they fit correctly. In my case, since I like to make multiple changes in my builds, kits don't normally work that well for me since I'd be replacing at least half of the parts in the process

Yeah understood. I had to be a little exact on a couple of edges on the bottom because of the way I went about it. But most of the time, I oversized the piece and sand down. That method never lets you down. You’d drive yourself crazy trying to get the part exact.

I took the clamps off today and sanded down the excess on the sides and front.

 

[Rich Jones]

Sponson Skins added and a piece of aluminum epoxied inside the sponson transom for turn fin mounting. Next I’ll add Fiberglass in select areas like inside the sponson transoms and along the side seams back along the non trip. I am going to give Brad Maglinger’s carbon fiber veil and lightweight fiberglass method a try in the engine compartment once I complete reinforcing some higher stress areas of the hull.

 

[ChrisHerzog]

It looks great man!

 

[Rich Jones]

It looks great man!

Thanks. Coming along. Just ordered some goodies (you know, stuff ) for this boat and others heading into the season.