Tiger King 27- Eagle SGX- 6545/3 combo

[Andy Brown]

Hey Andy

Very interested in your inital general thoughts of the Tiger King engines quality and performance..... Also curious whether you are running any of the additional performance parts or is it a standard TK Evo?

Cheers

Tim

So far I like it. Nice machine work and good design. There is plenty of room for improvement. It's certainly not perfect, but is a good base to work with. We did not run it stock. I did some flow work on the liner and a little on the case. I also modified the head. I did not change the timing yet. We are running stock timing. Outside of the nitro carb, all the parts are those that came in the box.

So far, we have about a 1/2 gallon of Coleman fuel through it. Combustion chamber looks almost like it has not been run. Light gold tint in some areas, no detonation.

 

[charles siler]

Andy are you going to port it for power or RPMs when you start to nitro . Also are going to go up in prop size or cupping or pitch as your power increases . So how is pipe length going to affect it also. When you go to nitro are you going to pressure charge the fuel system or keep it drawing. Here's the big question when are you going to start the change over.

One thing on my mind is how many RRRRS will the rod take before it pops my quick draw pulls 21000 with there hot pipe and I have been wanting to try a parabolic 80pipe or know a black one . I'm pretty existed with your progress.

 

[BobBonahoom]

I like this idea also. I am building a new F-Hydro with a 30 ounce Walt Barney fuel tank using the Tiger King engine with a glow plug on nitro/alcohol. I got rid of the magneto and fitted an aluminum flyhweel, etc. I have not made any mods to the inside of the engine yet. I am setting it up with pipe pressure using a JG steel pipe. The carb is a CMB 101 with a 0.510 bore. Here is a pic of the engine so far.

 

[David Ashcroft]

I like this idea also. I am building a new F-Hydro with a 30 ounce Walt Barney fuel tank using the Tiger King engine with a glow plug on nitro/alcohol. I got rid of the magneto and fitted an aluminum flyhweel, etc. I have not made any mods to the inside of the engine yet. I am setting it up with pipe pressure using a JG steel pipe. The carb is a CMB 101 with a 0.510 bore. Here is a pic of the engine so far.

Did you duplicate the original button volume or different volume? Is the flywheel the one that powerspark make?

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Bob,

Will the position of pulley grove allow you to remove the pull starter and it's support structure and simply used an electric starter? CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[charles siler]

Bob did you cut down the low end needle and did you and Andy change the ring and piston clearances

 

[BobBonahoom]

David, Bob, Charles,

So far I have not done anything much inside the engine. The stock button volume with a glow plug was 2.08 cc. With a deck height of 0.008", this gives a CR of 7.3:1, which seems low, but I like it as a starting point. Exhaust is at 188 degrees and the "intake" is 124 degrees. For the glow plug, I am using a 10 mm to 1/4-32 bushing, that required me to face off some of the head button in order to get the glow plug down into the chamber.

Yes, I am using a flywheel from PowerSpark in Germany. It is nicely made with the belt groove. I have a brass one and an alluminum one. I was going to get rid of the pull starter, but if it works I may leave it on. They guy that owns Quickdraw says you should never start a gas type engine with a belt because it twists the crank. That seems strange to me, but just in case I will start with the pull starter. Here is his warning from the QD web site:

WARNING: DO NOT USE A BELT STARTER OR ANY TYPE OF ELECTRIC STARTER ON EITHER END OF THE ENGINE. THIS WILL RESULT IN SEVERLY TWISTING THE CRANK. ALSO DO NOT TIGHTEN ANYTHING ON EITHER END OF THE CRANKSHAFT WHILE HOLDING THE ENGINE WITH A PISTON STOP OR HOLDING THE OPPOSITE END OF THE CRANKSHAFT. YOU MUST HOLD THE SAME END OF THE CRANK THAT YOU ARE TIGHTENING, THAT MEANS MAKE A TOOL TO HOLD THE MAGNETO WHILE YOU ARE TIGHTENING THE STARTER NUT AND HOLD THE COLLET WITH A WRENCH WHILE YOU ARE TIGHTENING THE SOCKET HEAD SCREW THAT HOLDS THE COLLET TO THE CRANK. YOU DO NOT WANT TO PUT ANY STRESS ACROSS THE CRANK. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL MOST LIKELY TWIST IT, THIS EVEN APPLIES TO ZENOAH ENGINES. PEOPLE DAMAGE CRANKSHAFTS ALL THE TIME BY USING PISTON STOPS AND OTHER METHODS WITHOUT EVEN REALIZING IT.

I did not cut off the low speed needle, but I have one that is cut off I can put in at any time. I want to see how it works first as it may help to have it there.

I did not do anything to the piston or ring. What do you guys suggest for that? I have heard of taking some material off below the ring but have never done it. What are the benefits? How do you make the mod?

Since Bob brought up Power Spark, check out this pic of my 101 RoadRunner. I have converted it to spark using the Power Spark system mounted top of the radio box. I know this is not legal in F-Hydro, but I want to see how well it works. This system allows for 15 different spark advance curves. Should be interesting.

 

[Jim Caldwell]

Yep, we had to spot weld the crank pins to the counter weights to prevent that.

 

[BobBonahoom]

Jim,

Did welding them cause ballance problems/

 

[Jim Caldwell]

No, It was just a tack weld to stop the pins from rotating in the counterweight.

 

[BobBonahoom]

Here is my new scratch built 27 cc F-Hydro. This is a Firefighter gas boat design with the tub widened to 5". Like what Andy is doing, it has a Tiger King engine fitted with a glow plug. It uses a 101 CMB carb and pipe pressure. I has a Ferette 3rd channel needle base. Walt made a 30 ounce tank for it. It has a 1/4" square drive running in lead-teflon strut bushings.

Promoting my son Pete's resturaunt, the best pizza in the Twing Cities!

Now if the ice would just melt, I could see if it works.

 

[bzubee]

Bob you need to get moved down here our ice is long gone!

 

[BobBonahoom]

Hi Bill, you are right about that! I am coming down there in October for a seminar with my wife. I do want to look around at the area. This last winter in Minnesota was the worst ever. At my age, the snow and ice is starting to be just too much.

 

[BobBonahoom]

Hi Bill, you are right about that! I am coming down there in October for a seminar with my wife. I do want to look around at the area. This last winter in Minnesota was the worst ever. At my age, the snow and ice is starting to be just too much.

 

[BobBonahoom]

Hi Bill, you are right about that! I am coming down there in October for a seminar with my wife. I do want to look around at the area. This last winter in Minnesota was the worst ever. At my age, the snow and ice is starting to be just too much.

 

[David Ashcroft]

Bob its looking good ,,how well does the engine idle and run ? What % nitro you be using?

David

 

[BobBonahoom]

David, I will be firing it up in the garage later this week for the first time.

I am starting with just 10% nitro. I normally run 50% in big engines and 65% in smaller ones. I want to start low and see how it goes, moving up gradually.

Just for fun, I put a few drops of methanol in the chamber in my basement, lit the plug and pulled the cord just enough to turn it over once. It instantly started and ran for a few seconds. (I have an EZ-Start on it, so I just let the spring do the work).

 

[Jim Caldwell]

Bob, Be Careful with the nitro to start unless you have dropped the CR. I could not get over 3% without detonation!

 

[BobBonahoom]

Jim, the compression ratio is very low at 7.3:1. I run my other nitro engines at ratios much higher than that on 65% nitro. Did you try to run a gas style engine on nitro fuel?

 

[Jim Caldwell]

Yes!