- Joined
- Dec 25, 2004
- Messages
- 2,883
Very well presented and your analysis is very logical and spot on.
Guys, there is probably an easy way to spec check a motor, though it would cost some money for the tools. Since all of the motors in a stock race will be manufacture by probably no more than two or three companies, you would really only need three tools:
If someone's engine is in question, have the boat owner pull the jug and a race official do the following:
- A bore guage of the appropriate size
- A depth guage with sufficient depth capability
- A caliper
- Visually inspect the jug and piston for obvious tampering
- Take three bore readings (top, middle and bottom) of the inside of the jug
- Take one reading of the inside depth of the jug
- Measure the diameter of the piston
5. Protest, its there for a reason, I have been district director for two years and not once has anyone bellied up the $5 to protest. Now I will tell you that they like to come up and complain to me and say you need to check that boat or motor blah blah blah. Soon as I say get your five dollars and go see the cd they all say I don't want to be the bad guy. So if we don't exercise the rules in place how do we know that it doesn't work?
Mike,Chris -
I’m not sure this would meet your wish for a 5-10 minutes inspection (I’d guess 20-30 mins), but I think it would go a long way toward making an inspection effective and relatively quick. These specs should be printed in the rule book, and ideally be tight (I.e., no large plus or minus variations on the measurements). Require that the club agree to check all of these at a large race like the Gas Nats.
1) Set a spec for stroke.
2) Set a spec for a squish band measurement, and describe how it is to be measured.
3) Set a spec for the carb Venturi and isolator block.
4) Set a spec on flywheel diameter and thickness.
5) Set specs on cylinder, and piston diameter.
6) Visually verify no grinding of ports, piston. Allow cleanup of piston/cylinder scratches.
7) Inspect crankcase seals and springs.
IMO this would cover most of what drivers would be concerned about, and if we could develop an inspection kit with some go/no go gauges available for big races, that would simplify and speed up the process. The kit(s) could be available by calling IMPBA, and would need to be returned.
To this list I’d include an inspection of the 1st place boat to assure it meets measurements and requirements in the rule book I.e., length, hardware on transom, etc). There was no boat inspection at the Indy Gas Nats.
And, as I mentioned above, I’d eliminate the gas/oil fuel rule as it is printed in the rule book, and just say, “ Open Fuel permitted”, for both stock and mod classes, since there’s no practical way to inspect our fuel anyway.
Hope this is helpful.
Mike Neal
Hello Mike, I dont know when Indy had a Gas Nats but if you are referring to the Evansville Indiana Gas Nats in 2021 we absolutely teched boats with go no go gauges before they could get in the water. Mike Schindler and I assigned Bruce and Doug Clark to put a gas nats decal on the transom after they were inspected and we marked the stock motors.Chris -
I’m not sure this would meet your wish for a 5-10 minutes inspection (I’d guess 20-30 mins), but I think it would go a long way toward making an inspection effective and relatively quick. These specs should be printed in the rule book, and ideally be tight (I.e., no large plus or minus variations on the measurements). Require that the club agree to check all of these at a large race like the Gas Nats.
1) Set a spec for stroke.
2) Set a spec for a squish band measurement, and describe how it is to be measured.
3) Set a spec for the carb Venturi and isolator block.
4) Set a spec on flywheel diameter and thickness.
5) Set specs on cylinder, and piston diameter.
6) Visually verify no grinding of ports, piston. Allow cleanup of piston/cylinder scratches.
7) Inspect crankcase seals and springs.
IMO this would cover most of what drivers would be concerned about, and if we could develop an inspection kit with some go/no go gauges available for big races, that would simplify and speed up the process. The kit(s) could be available by calling IMPBA, and would need to be returned.
To this list I’d include an inspection of the 1st place boat to assure it meets measurements and requirements in the rule book I.e., length, hardware on transom, etc). There was no boat inspection at the Indy Gas Nats.
And, as I mentioned above, I’d eliminate the gas/oil fuel rule as it is printed in the rule book, and just say, “ Open Fuel permitted”, for both stock and mod classes, since there’s no practical way to inspect our fuel anyway.
Hope this is helpful.
Mike Neal
Mike Neal what you saw was someone that knew what they were doing teaching a club member how to tech a motor correctly YOUR QUOTE>I also saw way too many people in inspection, including people picking up parts off the table, and looking them over. It made me uncomfortable seeing someone holding a motor part that wasn’t theirs. My personal opinion is that in inspection it should be the driver, his/her pitman, the inspectors, and that’s it. IN AN EFFERT TO GET IT RIGHT WE HAD A CLUB MEMBER LEARN THE PORCEDURE...... Another issue with the rule book is unless you know where to look the inspection procedure is hiding in plain sight.......I have believed for some time that the stock motors need an inspection checklist for big events. So, I guess I’m on board with the “spec motor” idea from Chris. At the nats this past year I saw the inspector on the phone trying desperately to get a spec on stock flywheel diameter. That took quite awhile, and yet, I didn’t see any effort to check stroke or seal springs. Maybe that happened, so if it did, and I missed it, please ignore what I just said. That said, I left the race thinking, “we need 6-12 specs printed in the rule book, and a guarantee from the club running the nats that those specific items will be looked at and measured.” So, I think I’m coming down in favor of a list of common sense specs that can be measured - ideally quickly and easily. I would also recommend that the specs be tight (I.e., no +/- .030, but +/- .003).
At this years nats, they already did what was suggested in some of the above posts, I.e., inspect the first place boat, and if it passes, inspection is done. That seemed pretty streamlined to me.
I also saw way too many people in inspection, including people picking up parts off the table, and looking them over. It made me uncomfortable seeing someone holding a motor part that wasn’t theirs. My personal opinion is that in inspection it should be the driver, his/her pitman, the inspectors, and that’s it.
Not to open a new can of worms, but given the passion around this discussion, I’m surprised no one has brought up fuel. We are drilling deeply into honing a cylinder (no pun intended), and yet there is absolutely no effort or means to inspect fuel - this is true for both stock and mod classes. Plenty of race associations know what fuel can do for performance, and yet, we worry about whether a water fitting has been drilled. There’s no easy way to inspect fuel. That’s why it will likely never happen. So, why not just change the rule to open fuel - both stock and mod. If there’s an issue with cheating on fuel, it is now fixed.
I have no doubt ”cheating” happens from time to time. That said, it’s my opinion that the guys who run out front, tend to spend the most time at the pond, and in their basement. I don’t think the national champion’s motor should be able to be bought out from under him for $200. We have no idea how many motors that guy has gone through or the number of break-in sessions or the handpicked stock parts he may have gone through. That’s a potential cost that’s worth more than $200. And what if 3 guys want to buy the new national champions motor? Are we going to encourage an auction? And if we do a good job of inspecting, and the new national champ passes inspection, why would we let someone buy the motor for $200, when it was just passed through inspection as legal? So, why don’t we decide what we want to inspect, make it as simple as we can, and then inspect it.
Lastly, I race stock classes and promote them in District 1, because I believe they are less complicated, and less expensive. Mod classes take a lot of experimenting with port timing, carb Venturi, and more. A builder has likely done a lot of dyno work and testing, and if someone does that for you, it costs $600+ per new motor. I think having access to a $200 new motor is a good thing for a hobby that’s hanging on, and likely will be under more pressure if the economy keeps trending the way it is. I agree stock classes are not really cut out for newbies. They run closer together. I’ve seen some brutally competitive races in stock mono. If we want a home for new drivers, then local clubs might want to consider local solutions for novices. And, maybe we need a national level newbie class if we think it’s an issue/opportunity. Thanks.
Enter your email address to join: