Setup for Miss Vegas

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Nick Beining

Active Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2010
Messages
43
I have a Miss Vegas(not a Duece) With a aquacraft Aquab9700 prop, wing removed, Pipe shortened 3/16", 50% nitro, with the strut as high as it will go without adding any room. How can I get the rear or the boat to ride higher out of the water??? Any tips would help!! Thanks
 
There is a couple of things I learned from other people but it takes work.

I have a wood box and move it forward, and put the battery's forward and servo's in the back.

I also put in a 8oz fuel tank.

I'm not sure what else you can do if you already using a lifting prop.

There probably is something you could do to the hull but that would affect its "RTR Status" if you race under a governing body.

When you get it heat racing water it will do better.

Tim

I have a Miss Vegas(not a Duece) With a aquacraft Aquab9700 prop, wing removed, Pipe shortened 3/16", 50% nitro, with the strut as high as it will go without adding any room. How can I get the rear or the boat to ride higher out of the water??? Any tips would help!! Thanks
 
There is a couple of things I learned from other people but it takes work.

I have a wood box and move it forward, and put the battery's forward and servo's in the back.

I also put in a 8oz fuel tank.

I'm not sure what else you can do if you already using a lifting prop.

There probably is something you could do to the hull but that would affect its "RTR Status" if you race under a governing body.

When you get it heat racing water it will do better.

Tim

I have a Miss Vegas(not a Duece) With a aquacraft Aquab9700 prop, wing removed, Pipe shortened 3/16", 50% nitro, with the strut as high as it will go without adding any room. How can I get the rear or the boat to ride higher out of the water??? Any tips would help!! Thanks
Ya I think I might give the Jd sponson Mod a try and add some weight to the front. Thanks for the input!!
 
I have a Miss Vegas(not a Duece) With a aquacraft Aquab9700 prop, wing removed, Pipe shortened 3/16", 50% nitro, with the strut as high as it will go without adding any room. How can I get the rear or the boat to ride higher out of the water??? Any tips would help!! Thanks
When I hear "as high as it will go," I think the prop is close to the bottom of the boat. Pushing the strut down should raise the back of the boat. Maybe that's what you have done.

I have a "How To" on adding sponson wedges to the original Miss Vegas to increase the angle of attack.

JD
 
I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for, but I would put the wings on. My gen 1 vegas is fast, and when it lifts, it lifts level, so the prop comes out of the water.

If you are not getting enough rpm, your prop may not be sharp enough? The prop is cast with a lot of cup, (the trailing edge is thicker). You may want to file it out, freeing up the engine. Also, kicking the rudder back at the bottom very slightly will lift the rear of the boat especially in the turns.

I would not modify the bottom of the boat, as it was designed to handle VERY well at speed.
 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oh67cQ7l-hg

This is my MVD, I use some wieght in the nose, some over the right sponson and on the out sides--you can see it in the video. Its not much weight, I have a small radio box, wood, in the middle. I use a 18tz, now with sleve mods and a x437/3, now with modification to it.

I used to have the same problem you were having, as you can see in this video it was with the stock tz and the stock 437 prop and the strut cut out to bottom out on the hull. I have since made changes to the prop, lowered the strut, and the engine as well which still allows the boat to rise up and carry more speed around the course. It runs much much better now.

What you want to do is cut your strut so you can have greater adjustment and then find and modify a prop that works well for your setup. I have many vegas' and have never needed to add wood to them to make them run well.

Also what engine are you running? Lets start with that....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3OppsTNsK0

In this video none of the boats at the time are running weight, or any sponson mods, there are 3 MVD though, one is box stock except for a y535 prop. They all use either ST engines, CVR or TZ. One thing in common is that they all have the strut modified for greater adjustment, keep in mind this video was last year and we have come a looooooooooong way from those setups.

I hope most of this helps....
 
cutting the strut in this case is refering to making the slot deeper.... its nice to notch them further down to increase adjustability...

alden
 
How about a degree or two of negitive angle in the strut? Ive got a little bit in my ol school Vegas......whadddya think Alden?
 
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A buddy of mine recently blew up his engine in his MVD. He claims he was not overreving it, but the con rod some how punched a hole in the crankcase....in addition to the piston and head being badly scored....does the ST have some issues? Have there been similar problems? Warranty work?
 
for sure bill,,,,im currently running a little negative also... the reduced back cut x438 likes it...i do have to say i never notched my strut,,,,but.....it is all the way up...with the modded engines i never felt a need to free the prop anymore...

the st let go huh,,, well i have seen and heard of the rods breaking and popping through the case......it is possible to get warranty work done if its a fairly new boat....you would need to contact aqua,,,or,,,hobby services???

i highly doubt you will over rev that engine,,,could it have been to lean,,,,lack of lube,, connecting rod binds on the big end and boom...just a thought...

alden
 
ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh,,,,i re read your post...piston crown and head button damage is a sign of a foriegn debris... i garantee it smashed up in there several times causing the rod to let go....did it ever drop a plug element into the engine??? loose elements wandering around in an engine will cause preignition which leads to detonation...that banging will cause rod failure quick....

another very common issue is lack of engine care...if after every outing the engine isnt well cleaned and oiled rust will form in the crankcase on the bearings and anything steel.....the bearings will then come apart super fast,,,smash those pieces in the head space and destroy the rod...i know it sounds dumb,,,but i see more people not oil the engine correctly,,,than properly.....

hope this helps..

alden
 
He had been blowing up plugs like crazy....but he was running it at 3 to 4 turns out. The engine loved 50% nitro...but ran like crap at 30% with the same cooler weather......



We used O'Donnells plugs....alternating between the red and purple plugs...and when he he blew it up...he had the purple(colder I believe) in it. These plugs are cheaper from TH...than the other's......
 
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i would like to encourage you to use k&b 1L plugs,,, in both engines... these are hot plugs... its imperative to keep heat in these engines to maintain proper wear and function...i love my sv,,, and my vegas... i put alot of time into engine mods... the 1L plug has served me well in everything i own... what brand of fuel are you using??? i run john otto's technology hobbies 60%... and ill tell you this,,, i wont buy any other fuel out there...

if it was eating plugs like crazy i would say the damage was due to the dropping of the elements...

alden
 
yep,,,they are the same temp range...i have had od reds fail where the k&b stayed together..i think the 1l is a better plug...i would stay away from the purples all together...

of course this is my opinion...

ac
 
So do you think that is was the problem with the Duece? Also...been searching the threads....I am new to this forum and there is a guy who was racing one that had the same problem. I think you responded to that one as well and I ordered some from TH....they may be here now at the PO in addition to two quarts of Grim 50%. Are the stock OS's worth modding? ....I thought the CVR-M or the TZ was the way to go for upgrades......
 
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