Run in stand/dyno build.

[Ricky Neal]

Welcome to IW Ricky, those are some very nice looking tether boats. Do you have an online gallery with more pics or a page within onthewire.co.uk?

sorry, no online gallery’s but if you can suggest where best to post on here i would be happy to make a thread and post some info on my stuff and tether boats in general

 

[Ricky Neal]

Very interesting, especially since it looks like you make most of your own stuff.

Do you make your own props too?

What fuel do you run?

I have made my own props but a fellow competitor in the Ukraine is now producing some very competitive props at a very reasonable price so i just buy them now

fuel wise, we have a control fuel that is 80% methanol, 20% caster oil. Zero nitro.

i don't want to hijack your thread but am happy to give you the run down on the tether hydro classes and current performance figures of you can suggest where i should post it

 

[Terry Keeley]

Thanks, you can just start another post in this General section I would think.

I'm very interested how you made your own props, I'm doing some myself too, thread here:

https://www.intlwaters.com/threads/prop-re-pitching-and-casting.58438/
What alloy(s) are you guys using?

 

[Ricky Neal]

Thanks, you can just start another post in this General section I would think.

I'm very interested how you made your own props, I'm doing some myself too, thread here:

https://www.intlwaters.com/threads/prop-re-pitching-and-casting.58438/
What alloy(s) are you guys using?

I am probably not the best person to give advice on making propellers. My own efforts were mostly copies of other peoples successful props with mixed results.

More generally, there have been cast stainless steel props available but the manufacturer seems to have now vanished. To be honest they were not particularly competitive and they also tended to bend when used with anything particularly powerful. Every propellor is hand finished.

The best propellers were homemade items in most cases, they are hand polished and sharpened but in recent years, a couple of the international competitors that have access to CNC machining equipment have started to produce some very good propellers.

Materials are hardenable steels, the props are hardened and tempered once machined. Anything softer just tends to bend or throw a blade after some use.

I will create a thread with more information on tethered hydros and my boats particularly in the general forum.

Regards

Ricky

 

[John Beardslee]

John Bridge used an automotive muffler mounted in a basement window, replaced the glass with sheet metal.

I think John also used a power vent to pull/push the exhaust and noise. I’ll check with Jerry Betke to see if he remembers.

 

[Terry Keeley]

Something I'm thinking about now is how to get air in without letting the sound out?

 

[Terry Keeley]

Been workin' on the room past coupla days, wired in a switch and plug for the blower fan. Also put in a 220v line, VFD and three phase motor so I have speed control on my large spay booth fan for any excess exhaust.

Drilled a hole through 8" of concrete to get the pipe out, this unit I rented from the Home Despot worked like a charm.

Also got some material, the 4140 bar is 6" diameter by 8" long and weighs 64 lbs. I'll end up whittling away about 1/2 of it. The large pipe is for the scatter shield.

 

[Terry Keeley]

I had to cut the fan down a bit and shorten the pipe to 9" but I wound the 67 up to almost 28K today. Cooling jacket leaked a little but nothing broke.

Gonna start on the wheel tomorrow...

 

[Ricky Neal]

Sounds great! I will start a dyno build in the new year using the information you have provided here and also all the information Jim Allen shared.

 

[Buckshot]

28k with a .67!! That was wicked sounding!

 

[Terry Keeley]

I need a bigger lathe, lol.

The scale and interrupted cut is killing my inserts!

 

[MitchFarabaugh]

If you can get below the scale all in one pass it will really help tool life. Indicate as close as possible, and take one nice big honkin' cut from the get go. If you can indicate to, say, 0.020", take a 0.050"+ cut, if you can only get to 0.050" on your indicator, take a 0.120" cut etc

 

[TomGracey]

Ware did U get the ducked fan unit and what size is it. I'm thinking of remodling my breakin stand by replacing the 3 blade aircraft prop Im now using. Just to large with the saftey shroud over the prop just incase it trough's a blade and keep hands out of the prop

 

[Terry Keeley]

Ware did U get the ducked fan unit and what size is it. I'm thinking of remodling my breakin stand by replacing the 3 blade aircraft prop Im now using. Just to large with the saftey shroud over the prop just incase it trough's a blade and keep hands out of the prop

They've long been discontinued but come up on FleeBay now and then.

This one's a little pricy: Byron Originals 6" Ducted Fan BYROJET Unit - New | eBay

 

[Terry Keeley]

If you can get below the scale all in one pass it will really help tool life. Indicate as close as possible, and take one nice big honkin' cut from the get go. If you can indicate to, say, 0.020", take a 0.050"+ cut, if you can only get to 0.050" on your indicator, take a 0.120" cut etc

Wish I cudda, it took over 0.120" to clean up, no way my little 11" Emco would take that. The cut in the vid is only 0.015" and if I try more or speed up it lets me know it's not happy. I'll prolly be able to go deeper on the ends, it doesn't seem to complain as much there, must be more rigid.

I have to cut away about 1/2 of this bar so I'll be at it a while.

Anyone have one of these I could borrow?

 

[John Beardslee]

Terry see if you have a Sandvik distributor that you could talk to. We used one of their carbide/ceramic products that worked great but you had to run a really high surface speed or tool life suffered.
Thanks John

 

[Joseph Durnya]

I need a bigger lathe, lol.

The scale and interrupted cut is killing my inserts!

id take that Emco Super 11 in a heartbeat !!! great lathe !!!

 

[LohringMiller]

"Sounds great! I will start a dyno build in the new year using the information you have provided here and also all the information Jim Allen shared. "

Ricky, you might also be interested in my dyno article in the NAMBA Propwash. Mike Bontoft and I have mado over a thousand runs on it over the years.

Lohring Miller

 

[Ricky Neal]

"Sounds great! I will start a dyno build in the new year using the information you have provided here and also all the information Jim Allen shared. "

Ricky, you might also be interested in my dyno article in the NAMBA Propwash. Mike Bontoft and I have mado over a thousand runs on it over the years.

Lohring Miller

Thanks Lohring. Every subject I am interested in on this forum seems to be littered with very useful and interesting information that you have posted. I really appreciate you sharing that knowledge.

 

[Tom Foley]

Just a thought but you could remove the scale with a flap wheel , belt sander etc off the machine , then continue the cut .