Run in stand/dyno build.

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Yup, it's a little sloppy. I'm going to put some "white lead" dead center grease on it as well.

If the ball breaks off it's sloppy enough to use a piece of full width hex key. If that breaks, well? :rolleyes:
 
I'm lucky to remember something I did yesterday. LOL As you know, we used a square key but had no one way clutch. It worked OK, but the Aeromarine square collets had a short wear life. We managed to twist several keys but none broke. These days I think a one way clutch is a good idea. Hardened hexes should hold up well, but a hex will strip before a square..

Lohring Miller
 
I'm lucky to remember something I did yesterday. LOL As you know, we used a square key but had no one way clutch. It worked OK, but the Aeromarine square collets had a short wear life. We managed to twist several keys but none broke. These days I think a one way clutch is a good idea. Hardened hexes should hold up well, but a hex will strip before a square..

Lohring Miller


Ya, I can see the hex ball stripping after a bit of running, will probably change that to a full hex. The SHCS is easy to replace as well, much better idea than the square collet I was thinking of making.
 
Terry,

I would be a little concerned that once the engine stops accelerating your flywheel, the clutch will still be engaged due to the high centripetal forces. Said another way the engine does not have enough braking compression to slow its clutch shoes and release them from the drum. So in till the inertia flywheel mass slows down enough the clutch will not release. I think Mikey ran into this issue with his gas inertia dyno where the engine had to pull the flywheel down to a lower speed before the clutch would release. I can't recall how he solved it. A one-way bearing would be nice, but tricky to implement.
 
A one-way bearing would be nice, but tricky to implement.

It was tricky to implement, I hope it will be nice, lol.

I thought about getting lube to the bearings in the clutch somehow but figured it'd screw up the engagement. I guess in theory they only "work" below the lock-up rpm so might not be too bad. The one-way bearing is more accessible and comes greased but it might need servicing or replacing down the road...


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Terry,

I would be a little concerned that once the engine stops accelerating your flywheel, the clutch will still be engaged due to the high centripetal forces. Said another way the engine does not have enough braking compression to slow its clutch shoes and release them from the drum. So in till the inertia flywheel mass slows down enough the clutch will not release. I think Mikey ran into this issue with his gas inertia dyno where the engine had to pull the flywheel down to a lower speed before the clutch would release. I can't recall how he solved it. A one-way bearing would be nice, but tricky to implement.

You might want to check out what the drag race electric heli’s are using for their one way bearing. We all used them and as long as you kept them clean and lubed them they were trouble free. I clean and lube my 90 nitro once a season. I say electrics because they are really cranking and hold most records
Thanks John
 
You might want to check out what the drag race electric heli’s are using for their one way bearing. We all used them and as long as you kept them clean and lubed them they were trouble free. I clean and lube my 90 nitro once a season. I say electrics because they are really cranking and hold most records
Thanks John


Looks like they use one-way needle bearings mostly?
 
Terry,

You know, I've NEVER used a rotary table...… o_O

CNC is wonderful.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 
Cooling unit with Datamite is done, was my buddy Rudy's idea. Never knew "gamers" had water cooled computers.

For now I'll use a janky dry cell box for the temp readout, got a 12v-5v converter coming. I'll regulate the water with the valve if needed. Gonna run a thermocouple under the glow plug and have one of those Exergen IR guns to play with, I hope to get a better idea where these things are happy temperature wise.


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A cpu can't run too cold. I think it's going to be a challenge to get the water flow rate right. The flow rate will have more effect than the fan speed getting temp up to operating limits. It takes time to heat up the radiator. 160 is about the max cpu temp you ever want to see. Very interested in this system. Thanks for going boldly were no man has gone before!
 
Ran it today for the first time, not much to look at but here's a vid anyway:



The hex nut backed out binding up the shaft, don't think it was seated properly. The oil cups are leaking, PITA, probably have to lap the needles in. Only got to about 18K, sounded lean so I didn't want to open it up.
 
Ooops, was in a hurry.

It actually ran for 7 mins or so on the 24 oz. tank. Just about got it back together for round two.
 

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