Proven Set up for Speedmaster 21

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Jerry Muro

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2004
Messages
716
I am in the process of getting ready to set up my new Speedmaster 21 and I was wondering if there is a set up that has been proven as opposed to the directions that come with the hull. Items that I am looking for is C.G./ motor locations/ center line of strut to bottom of keel/ tank size for 6 lap race/and any other items I missed that are important. Thanks in advance Jerry
 
b0atnutz said:
I am in the process of getting ready to set up my new Speedmaster 21 and I was wondering if there is a set up that has been proven as opposed to the directions that come with the hull. Items that I am looking for is C.G./ motor locations/ center line of strut to bottom of keel/ tank size for 6 lap race/and any other items I missed that are important. Thanks in advance Jerry
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Build it per the instructions and you will be pleased. I'm building my 3rd Speedmaster now and finished 3rd in the district 2 point series with this set up.

Locate the motor at the mid point of the range in the instructions. Mike Z makes an 8 oz tank for the Speedmaster that works great. Locate it as close to the cg as possible to keep the cg constant as the fuel burns off. Put the strut as low as you can get it to start off. Set it with no angle and bump it up if the boat is too tight. I use only the inside tabs and on my new one, I'm using a turn fin.
 
My setup is almost identical to Joe's except for no turn fin or trim tabs. I was told when I bought it to try it this way first then add the pieces if I needed them.
 
Ron Olson said:
My setup is almost identical to Joe's except for no turn fin or trim tabs. I was told when I bought it to try it this way first then add the pieces if I needed them.
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Ron that was the set up on the original version but version 2 and 3 at least needs tabs because the bottom was changed. The boat that won US-1 in 20 mono was a version 2 with tabs.
 
I had mine set up by David Preusse I really liked his set up he had at the 2004 Internats in Jackson, TN he did US-! with his set up.. Really trick trim tabs and tank set up.

Bill Zuber
 
Perfect timing for this thread

I am setting up the same boat today (my sons christmas present).

How are you attaching the radio box?

I am stuck at the rear rudder push rod, do you put a regular pushrod seal between the radio box and the transom, If so how do you change them later ? Can I use a carbon fiber rod on a 20 mono?

My past monos the radio box was molded in the hull.

Thanks for all the help

Mike

BTW thanks for the answer to the trim tab question. :D
 
Heartbeat said:
Perfect timing for this threadI am setting up the same boat today (my sons christmas present).

How are you attaching the radio box?

I am stuck at the rear rudder push rod, do you put a regular pushrod seal between the radio box and the transom, If so how do you change them later ? Can I use a carbon fiber rod on a 20 mono?

My past monos the radio box was molded in the hull.

Thanks for all the help

Mike

BTW thanks for the answer to the trim tab question.  :D

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I use shoo goo and attach it directly to the bottom. I leave a gap so I can change the seal. You may want to cut the box down by 3/8". I use .60 solid carbon rod and glue the Great Planes thread ends to it. It's plenty strong. I use it on my 40 Speedmaster as well with no problems.
 
Joe

Thanks for that picture.......!!!!! Thats why I aked about the stinger, I saw the stuffing tube cut off flush......

A picture is worth a thousand words......

How do you like the SM 40 ..??

Damn.. I must have the F'n Plague or something...... <_<
 
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Joe: In the picture your rudder looks like it's on a bit of an angle to the right. Straighten it up and you might keep up with the Seaducer 33". LOL Just kidd'n...

Jerry... I had a Speedmaster .21 (earliest model) and found that the radio box was way too high and had to lower it just like Joe says. If you do it right the pipe clears and sits on a good angle without having to do something crazy with the header. As for the rear linkage seal. I make all my radio boxes removeable for just this reason. On the speedmaster I mounted two stringers into the bottom of the boat and screwed the radio box to them making it easy to remove. Or, you can make mounting brackets into the engine stringers and bolt it in as well.

RJ.
 
The best thing I can tell you is to throw away the instruction sheet.

The C/G needs to be 9.750. You need inside trim tabs and mini turn fin (prather)

I sent the boat up according the the data sheet. The boat was way to loose and wild.

Kentley
 
Heartbeat, the instructions are no help in locating the radio box as you know. I used some bondo at each corner of the box to hold it in place. I sprayed the box first with WD-40 so that it wouldn't stick while I sat the box into it. Holding it in place afterwards so that it wouldn't move around. I ended up by drilling a hole on each side of the box and running self-tapping screws through those into the engine rails then sealing those with Shoo-Goo. Kind of cobbled up but it worked for me.
 
Ron J said:
Joe:  In the picture your rudder looks like it's on a bit of an angle to the right.  Straighten it up and you might keep up with the Seaducer 33".  LOL  Just kidd'n.... 

RJ.

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R.J., I've got something coming from Canada by way of Tennessee that will make that Speedmaster keep up with the Seaducer!
 
waterbug said:
Joe
Thanks for that picture.......!!!!!  Thats why I aked about the stinger, I saw the stuffing tube cut off flush......

A picture is worth a thousand words...... 

How do you like the SM 40 ..??

Damn.. I must have the F'n Plague or something...... <_<

77323[/snapback]

The Speedmaster 40 has been blistering fast but I haven't been very successful in keeping it on the water for 6 laps. Some new tabs and testing should cure it.
 
Boatnutz,

I didn't want to give up KP's setup but since he chimed in already, do as he says. DO NOT SET CG PER INSTRUCTIONS.
 
Preston_Hall said:
Boatnutz,I didn't want to give up KP's setup but since he chimed in already, do as he says. DO NOT SET CG PER INSTRUCTIONS.

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Just to clear something up. I said to set the engine at the midpoint given in the instructions. If you do that, the cg ends up way further forward than the instructions say.

As a matter of fact, KP called me to get the correct cg after he figured out the cg was too far back.
 
I have a Speed Master I bought from Mike Byers and just measured where he set the CG it is at 9 "s.... I have not splashed the hull yet...?? Have CMB and TT pipe all new no trim tabs...

Know I am wondering what I should do... :blink: :huh: I have no idea know... I guess i will brave the cold and splash it to see.... They are calling for snow flurrys this weekend here in S.C. Mid 40's in the day and low 20's at night...This weekend high 30's low teens.... :(
 
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waterbug said:
I have a Speed Master I bought from Mike Byers and just measured where he set the CG it is at 9 "s.... I have not splashed the hull yet...?? Have CMB and TT pipe all new no trim tabs...
Know I am wondering what I should do... :blink:   :huh:   I have no idea know... I guess i will brave the cold and splash it to see....  They are calling for snow flurrys this weekend here in S.C.  Mid 40's in the day and low 20's at night...This weekend high 30's low teens.... :(

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the c/g should have ended up at 9 5/8, strut flat with the bottom, no tabs no fin, 440/3 prop= 53mph heat racer.

Mike B
 
Thanks Mike

I new you would chime in...I had good faith you had it set to run... :) :) I saw the two pencil marks on the left side thought that was the CG....Heck I still have not put it all back together yet.... I've been working on the CF Seaducer for my daughter....!!! I guess I'm in a slump..... :(

Time to build a new JD WOF tunnel that always helps my spirit..... :p

Thanks Again Mike for pulling my big butt out the fire so to speak.... :lol: :lol:

BUG RACING
 
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