new .21 rigger

[RodneyPierce]

it def, did sound a little rich in the vid.

I use a zip tie around the water line to pinch it down. Just have to be real careful, as its easy to tighten it too much. I usually pull the line off and blow through it, as im tighting down the zip tie to make sure im still getting water flow.

 

[Chris Wood]

this is just my experience

the ops 3280 pipe is not a major RPM pipe.. it is more suited for larger dia example : 48mm 1450 say a 3.6 - 4.0 cup

again that is what i have found.. i also have noticed over the yrs that the ops ( on my boats ) doesn't like to go super short.. i never found any more speed ect going shorter.

when i ran that pipe i used it at 8 1/8 lenght.. and i never ever moved it.. when i did it wasn't any good. again that is on my stuff with bigger dia props. if you are looking for the rpm.

the prop you have is a good choice. just a different pipe.

that is just my experience

chris

 

[anthony_marquart]

Thanks guys for all your suggestions. I'm going to try a prop on each side of what I have. More water restriction is needed especially with the cold air coming in. I also have an AB parobolic pipe I have tried.. DIdn't really see a difference. I also have a niec CF pipe to try a but from whay I hear it's hard to get set up. I want to get a Woods S pipe also,.. I haven't gotten the stinger into the 3280 yet, I think that might help add some heat in the motor also.

Thanks and I'll take all the suggestions I can get!!!!

Anthony Marquart

 

[Mike Larson]

Anthony... just keep fine tuning it as you can.... 46.5 while common, just hasnt worked on my "ski" style boat..... we are below 46 and approaching 45, to keep the top end there..... Mark is spot on... as the H series have more beginning and mid cup ( sorta), than the 14 series Oct. Let him send you a worked 5 or 6, to try, as his guesses even from forever far away havent failed to gain on my end to date........

Barr cutting per adam, on a whim,( aka Marty Davis styling) still allowed us to pull the 1450 series well enough we're looking intently..... even as high as the '52,(speed test piece) but reducing/working it down has proved a chore.....

A serious look back to the 1445, cupped beyond recognition will be a return test, as overall rpm's at the top are sought.

It'll all end up being the little pile of beryllium at the prop vise as you season to taste....

Chris, was here a few times.... and as soon as he beat into our heads that the S/cooper was a high RPM pipe, the light bulb lit, that, maybe spinning a smaller diameter propellor faster, was the focus......

I've the 3280, and a few others tested, equalling torque, needed for "the big wheel" i didnt like hitting the wall at the top.... may as well put a wind vane and a spring on it per weedeater.......

Ski style, and easy, with the variables normal to hydroplanes half eliminated, work that prop, and it'll rock......

Be good, test well..... Mike

 

[anthony_marquart]

So,.. Maybe I want to look at more prop with this setup?,.. or go with a woods pipe,,.. I though the OPS pipe was an RPM type pipe,.. hm,... learning more every day.

Anthony... just keep fine tuning it as you can.... 46.5 while common, just hasnt worked on my "ski" style boat..... we are below 46 and approaching 45, to keep the top end there..... Mark is spot on... as the H series have more beginning and mid cup ( sorta), than the 14 series Oct. Let him send you a worked 5 or 6, to try, as his guesses even from forever far away havent failed to gain on my end to date........

Barr cutting per adam, on a whim,( aka Marty Davis styling) still allowed us to pull the 1450 series well enough we're looking intently..... even as high as the '52,(speed test piece) but reducing/working it down has proved a chore.....

A serious look back to the 1445, cupped beyond recognition will be a return test, as overall rpm's at the top are sought.

It'll all end up being the little pile of beryllium at the prop vise as you season to taste....

Chris, was here a few times.... and as soon as he beat into our heads that the S/cooper was a high RPM pipe, the light bulb lit, that, maybe spinning a smaller diameter propellor faster, was the focus......

I've the 3280, and a few others tested, equalling torque, needed for "the big wheel" i didnt like hitting the wall at the top.... may as well put a wind vane and a spring on it per weedeater.......

Ski style, and easy, with the variables normal to hydroplanes half eliminated, work that prop, and it'll rock......

Be good, test well..... Mike

 

[RodneyPierce]

So,.. Maybe I want to look at more prop with this setup?,.. or go with a woods pipe,,.. I though the OPS pipe was an RPM type pipe,.. hm,... learning more every day.

Anthony, I run a 3280 in my sport 20, and i think ive hit the wall for RPM. I was talking to Mark the other day, and he said to try an S-Pipe on it. Says the S pipe really likes to RPM. ie, be short.

 

[LarryConrad]

Before you make any radical changes to your current setup restrict the water more or remove it completely to get the engine temp up. Then try some higher nitro content fuel. 50% is pretty mild for a .21. I have seen a major performance increase going from 50 to 60, and another jump from 60 to 70. Your mileage may vary.

Larry

 

[dave roach]

Anthony

A good pipe to try is the CMB 21 pipe that Stu sells.

Dave Roach

 

[shoboat]

Anthony,

Send me your address and I will send you the cure to your problem.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

 

[Andy Brown]

Anthony,

Send me your address and I will send you the cure to your problem.

Wrong pipe and propeller on this set up.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

Mark,

What exactly is wrong with the PROP and PIPE? That pipe and prop has run very fast for many different riggers. Both that prop and pipe are very popular and have been for decades! The 3.2" cup could be bumped up, but only if Anthony is willing to bump up the nitro as well.

You can tell guys what they need all you want, but it would be a good idea to collect all the details first and help them fine tune what they have before suggesting they go out and get new parts!

 

[Marty Davis]

Anthony,

Send me your address and I will send you the cure to your problem.

Wrong pipe and propeller on this set up.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

Mark,

What exactly is wrong with the PROP and PIPE? That pipe and prop have has run very fast for many different riggers. Both that prop and pipe are very popular and have been for decades! The 3.2" cup could be bumped up, but only if Anthony is willing to bump up the nitro as well.

You can tell guys what they need all you want, but it would be a good idea to collect all the details first and help them fine tune what they have before suggesting they go out and get new parts!

I would second that. Also why be secretive, just say it.....

 

[Andy Brown]

Anthony,

Send me your address and I will send you the cure to your problem.

Wrong pipe and propeller on this set up.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

Mark,

What exactly is wrong with the PROP and PIPE? That pipe and prop have has run very fast for many different riggers. Both that prop and pipe are very popular and have been for decades! The 3.2" cup could be bumped up, but only if Anthony is willing to bump up the nitro as well.

You can tell guys what they need all you want, but it would be a good idea to collect all the details first and help them fine tune what they have before suggesting they go out and get new parts!

I would second that. Also why be secretive, just say it.....

Heck, I just wish I had as many of those secret props to hand out for everyone to test like Mark does. No extra props around here! We have a current backlog of 350 props and we ship out many props to patiently waiting customers everyday.

 

[shoboat]

Andy,

There is nothing wrong with your propeller, it is a work of art.

It is just a set up detail that I know the solution to.

You guys have no idea how much work and information that I

have on these little boats. I am sure Anthony will come back to this set up

sooner or later. The solution is really simple, and if Anthony wants to share

it with you he will.

Keep Testing And Have Fun,

Mark Sholund

 

[Ian Inverarity]

Andy,

There is nothing wrong with your propeller, it is a work of art.

It is just a set up detail that I know the solution to.

You guys have no idea how much work and information that I

have on these little boats. I am sure Anthony will come back to this set up

sooner or later. The solution is really simple, and if Anthony wants to share

it with you he will.

Keep Testing And Have Fun,

Mark Sholund

So what is the set up detail that you know the solution to? I am looking at building a JAE soon.

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Mark has offered to send him the stuff to try out, so whats the problem if he doesn't want to disclose what it is - hats off to the man if you ask me.

Also, It is completely possible to run 70mph with a 21 heat racing rigger on 50% nitro. More than one of us have proved it here in Australia. It just takes a fair amount of testing time and attention to detail for set-up.

 

[anthony_marquart]

I can tell you this,.. I'm waiting at the mial box RIGHT NOW!!!!! I love getting packages and I HATE having to wait for them!!! I sure hope the problem isn't as simple as still running too rich!!! I do think lack of heat is contributing..

 

[Andy Brown]

A few questions Anthony?

Engine stock or mod.? If mod. give details.

Head clearence?

Carb- stock? modified? or other?

What Plug? Did you burn any or pull any elements?

How much oil is in your 50% fuel?

Does the header butt up to the pipe exactly?

How long is the header tube?

Is it flared out to match the OPS pipe header section?

How long is the OPS pipe header section before the first cone taper begins? Or does the engine header butt right to where the OPS cone starts?

What is the current stinger I.D.?

Did the engine have any heat at all? Body temp? or slightly warmer than body temp?

You drove the boat mostly in big circles Do you race? If so and you want to get the best of your test sessions

run a normal course with 330' straights and 40'- 50' radius turns maximum so you can see how the engine responds

in each section of a normal race course.

Answers to ALL of these questions would be a good start toward providing relevant performance improvement suggestions.

As Tim Duggan mentioned. It's possible to go 70 mph on 50% when all of the set up detail is given close attention.

 

[TimothyJones]

I agree with Andy.

What you plan on doing really helps in the proper set up and the going fast approach.

Straight away, oval heat racing or just playing.

I caught the bug with running with my buddy. We had 2 Kyosho deep v's and raced each other.

Well... that wasn't enough for me so I join a club in my area(ODMBA). Now I just test and tune at a IMPBA course.

How the boat exits a corner, turns and back stretch speed are the areas I test at.

Going fast to me is running against other similar boats and seeing how my boat performs and how I perform.

There is even more than Andy states>> Conditions!!! air condition/density evaluation, elevation, water density/temp, geo area.It all plays a factor on getting that last MPH.

But Thats where the fun is for me.

Tim

By the way I really like your boat and your on your way my friend

A few questions Anthony?

Engine stock or mod.? If mod. give details.

Head clearence?

Carb- stock? modified? or other?

What Plug? Did you burn any or pull any elements?

How much oil is in your 50% fuel?

Does the header butt up to the pipe exactly?

How long is the header tube?

Is it flared out to match the OPS pipe header section?

How long is the OPS pipe header section before the first cone taper begins? Or does the engine header butt right to where the OPS cone starts?

What is the current stinger I.D.?

Did the engine have any heat at all? Body temp? or slightly warmer than body temp?

You drove the boat mostly in big circles Do you race? If so and you want to get the best of your test sessions

run a normal course with 330' straights and 40'- 50' radius turns maximum so you can see how the engine responds

in each section of a normal race course.

Answers to ALL of these questions would be a good start toward providing relevant performance improvement suggestions.

As Tim Duggan mentioned. It's possible to go 70 mph on 50% when all of the set up detail is given close attention.

 

[anthony_marquart]

A few questions Anthony?

Engine stock or mod.? Stock NR 5port

Head clearence? Between 0.008 and 0.0010

Carb- stock? modified? or other? Low end needle removed and part of spray bar removed done by Glenn

What Plug? Did you burn any or pull any elements? OD9 and I have only EVER burned ONE plug with this engine and GR fuel

How much oil is in your 50% fuel? Don't know

Does the header butt up to the pipe exactly?

How long is the header tube?

Is it flared out to match the OPS pipe header section?

How long is the OPS pipe header section before the first cone taper begins? Or does the engine header butt right to where the OPS cone starts? These header questions remind me that I have a kinda odd header. Not really a round curve. The pipe has only about 1/4 straight section left and it butts right to the header. I'm ordering a N/R header.

What is the current stinger I.D.? 5/16 I have since added an internal stinger on Martys advice. The 5/16 brass tube with 0.014 wall puts the ID right at the dia Marty suggested.

Did the engine have any heat at all? Body temp? or slightly warmer than body temp? Just slightly warmer than body temp.

You drove the boat mostly in big circles Do you race? If so and you want to get the best of your test sessions

run a normal course with 330' straights and 40'- 50' radius turns maximum so you can see how the engine responds

in each section of a normal race course.

I do race on occasion. And we run the bouys for fun sometimes. I was running so wide because the bouy stays were above the surface and would destroy a boat if I hit one, and they are black and hard to see! that would be really bad expecially with my wife taking the video!!! So, performace out of the corners is important.

THanks!!!

Answers to ALL of these questions would be a good start toward providing relevant performance improvement suggestions.

As Tim Duggan mentioned. It's possible to go 70 mph on 50% when all of the set up detail is given close attention.

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Anthony,

Is the cooling jacket still stock? If so, fill the water passage up with JBWeld or similar and then use a dremel to make a considerably smaller volume water passage. The stock Nova cooling jacket passage is HUGE - way too big for a rigger! I also restrict the water at the fitting on the rudder blade in conjuction with less water volume in the jacket.

With the cooling restricted and good compression, it should still haul the mail on a rich needle. Read your plug after a run and don't run the boat out of fuel on the water.