Monos built strickly for SAW?

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Ian if you check out my Facebook page in my signature you will find a video of my friends makara running, not very different to yours. This hull was notorious for its bouncing and was very difficult to stop without adding trim tabs and lead to the boat. Great boat offshore in the chop but not so good for circuit racing
 
Ian if you check out my Facebook page in my signature you will find a video of my friends makara running, not very different to yours. This hull was notorious for its bouncing and was very difficult to stop without adding trim tabs and lead to the boat. Great boat offshore in the chop but not so good for circuit racing
Hi Steve, Thanks for the info. Good hearing from you. I'll drop you a PM later today.

I didn't want to dwell too much on the Makara. I think they're pretty variable - depending not least on when they were made; the earlier ones (before the mould degenerated too badly), generally being better than the later ones, but the roll / veering to the right at speed, is really the only remaining / significant bad habit in mine (as long as the hardware stays where it should be), and since the thread was going down the road of roll etc, I was curious to get input on rudder interactions. I'd previously considered torque wedges (possibly at a few points along the length, to try and retain the front to back ride attitude), but the idea of keeping it simple (if possible) appealed. I knew that right hand rudder offset was to use the lift of the rudder to counteract torque roll, but in my minds eye, I considered that the rudder would also slow down the right hand side of the boat, and thought that force would try and pull the boat towards the right (to some extent counteracting the lift of the rudder). I know John's a great one for using what needs to be there in various ways, to create balance, and without putting anything in the water which doesn't need to be there, so I thought I'd ask, as I was hoping there might be an easy way to significantly increase the lift from the rudder - preferably without moving it further out to the right. I guess the plan of action is 1) Check for flatness near the keel line again, maybe add cyano on left - at the very rear, nearest the transom, and from keel out to inner line of first trim tab 2) Possibly add torque wedges 3) Bandsaw / jigsaw / large hammer.
 
Ian if you check out my Facebook page in my signature you will find a video of my friends makara running, not very different to yours. This hull was notorious for its bouncing and was very difficult to stop without adding trim tabs and lead to the boat. Great boat offshore in the chop but not so good for circuit racing
Hi Steve, Thanks for the info. Good hearing from you. I'll drop you a PM later today.

I didn't want to dwell too much on the Makara. I think they're pretty variable - depending not least on when they were made; the earlier ones (before the mould degenerated too badly), generally being better than the later ones, but the roll / veering to the right at speed, is really the only remaining / significant bad habit in mine (as long as the hardware stays where it should be), and since the thread was going down the road of roll etc, I was curious to get input on rudder interactions. I'd previously considered torque wedges (possibly at a few points along the length, to try and retain the front to back ride attitude), but the idea of keeping it simple (if possible) appealed. I knew that right hand rudder offset was to use the lift of the rudder to counteract torque roll, but in my minds eye, I considered that the rudder would also slow down the right hand side of the boat, and thought that force would try and pull the boat towards the right (to some extent counteracting the lift of the rudder). I know John's a great one for using what needs to be there in various ways, to create balance, and without putting anything in the water which doesn't need to be there, so I thought I'd ask, as I was hoping there might be an easy way to significantly increase the lift from the rudder - preferably without moving it further out to the right. I guess the plan of action is 1) Check for flatness near the keel line again, maybe add cyano on left - at the very rear, nearest the transom, and from keel out to inner line of first trim tab 2) Possibly add torque wedges 3) Bandsaw / jigsaw / large hammer.
You will be amased at the effects of the cyanacrolate. I was at the test pond with Steve Speas working on trimming a mono when we put some cyanacrolate on a stufing tube or easy bailer or something on the transom. Can't remember what we were gluing. The next run the bow was buried and the boat was leaning hard in one direction. We were scratching our heads and pulled the boat in for inspection. A small bead of cyanacrolte had run down the transom and formed a small bump under the boat. Steve named it bump trim and we have been using that trick ever since. Torque wedges are illegal on a mono by the way. They put a mono into the hydro class. A bump of glue is just that. Don't sand it. Try it, you will like it!
 
Ian if you check out my Facebook page in my signature you will find a video of my friends makara running, not very different to yours. This hull was notorious for its bouncing and was very difficult to stop without adding trim tabs and lead to the boat. Great boat offshore in the chop but not so good for circuit racing
Hi Steve, Thanks for the info. Good hearing from you. I'll drop you a PM later today.

I didn't want to dwell too much on the Makara. I think they're pretty variable - depending not least on when they were made; the earlier ones (before the mould degenerated too badly), generally being better than the later ones, but the roll / veering to the right at speed, is really the only remaining / significant bad habit in mine (as long as the hardware stays where it should be), and since the thread was going down the road of roll etc, I was curious to get input on rudder interactions. I'd previously considered torque wedges (possibly at a few points along the length, to try and retain the front to back ride attitude), but the idea of keeping it simple (if possible) appealed. I knew that right hand rudder offset was to use the lift of the rudder to counteract torque roll, but in my minds eye, I considered that the rudder would also slow down the right hand side of the boat, and thought that force would try and pull the boat towards the right (to some extent counteracting the lift of the rudder). I know John's a great one for using what needs to be there in various ways, to create balance, and without putting anything in the water which doesn't need to be there, so I thought I'd ask, as I was hoping there might be an easy way to significantly increase the lift from the rudder - preferably without moving it further out to the right. I guess the plan of action is 1) Check for flatness near the keel line again, maybe add cyano on left - at the very rear, nearest the transom, and from keel out to inner line of first trim tab 2) Possibly add torque wedges 3) Bandsaw / jigsaw / large hammer.
You will be amased at the effects of the cyanacrolate. I was at the test pond with Steve Speas working on trimming a mono when we put some cyanacrolate on a stufing tube or easy bailer or something on the transom. Can't remember what we were gluing. The next run the bow was buried and the boat was leaning hard in one direction. We were scratching our heads and pulled the boat in for inspection. A small bead of cyanacrolte had run down the transom and formed a small bump under the boat. Steve named it bump trim and we have been using that trick ever since. Torque wedges are illegal on a mono by the way. They put a mono into the hydro class. A bump of glue is just that. Don't sand it. Try it, you will like it!
"You will be amased at the effects of the cyanacrolate. "

......and Radio box tape! :wacko:
 
Hi,

nice to read all this stuff.We place a spanner nut inside the hull near the transom from the floor up to a cfk bridge at each side of the hull and bend the hullbottom in or out .That workes like wedges without any outside the hull.

For a spezial hull for saw i think about the Northwind design .This can be changed beeing longer or having a having a wedge shape flat .I draw some on a paper and cut it out .Doing the same with abs plastic plate you can easy design many hulls with different shape and lift .Have a look at lifting bodys ,if i would design a new monohull it will look like them.

On the drawingpaper at 1, i show a version of trimtabs Italien used to controll Offshore hull if the boat starts going wild.Both wedge shape flaps going down and as they are attached at an angle the outer side ad moore pressure.

at #4, i draw a boat i see in Japan .The design was like the Northwind but the body touch the water at two points without a step .It was like a wave the bottom and if you attache a soft rubberplate at the front touching point it will reflex by the waterpressure so the water will breakaway.I's like the waterbouncing ball you can buy at the Ron Jon Surf Shop in the States.

To get moore influence a twin ruder will also be helpfull if you drive each ruder by a seperate servo so you can change the parallel angle of the ruder that the trailing edge looking moore together witch result in different lift hold the bow down .I try this at the SK Daddle with succses .

Ever thought about counterrotating propellers ? Less resistance as the ruder can be much smaller and need no wedge design to counter the propwalk . Some reason wy the dragboots use twin counterrotating propellers as i know.

Boats and so 024.jpg

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Oops forgot we were talking SAW specific

My understanding of a flat keel is that it is very touchy in tuning the angle
 
Was fortunate to come across a brand-new Steve Muck Lil' Northwind 20 kit. It arrived packed in it's original box, pretty much un-touched (never removed), and wrapped in newspaper dated circa-1979. The drawings/plans are aged and delicate (revised 1976), I am currently re-storing and scanning full-size. The fiberglass hull itself is very clean and straight. Only wish it was epoxy based as opposed to polyester resin. Gelcoat is good.

I plan to update fabrication & hull configuration approach and replace some of the supplied wood with new stock combined with composite materials where applicable. Integrated hydro-style cowl. Also updated outdrive strut & rudder configuration. I was lucky to already own an incomplete Northwind 40 running hardware kit (stored in my junk-box) which has the original stainless trim plate and turn-fin (about the only original items I will use).

Will use new NovaRossi .21DD Turbo engine and pipe setup. Not sure whether to use the Octura 3-30 aluminum mount, or go with new-generation isolated type? Also have custom tank fabricated.

Plan to run SAW mostly, and maybe some heat-racing. Don't know why but I'm more excited to build and run this boat more than my other (new) outrigger kits
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Was fortunate to come across a brand-new Steve Muck Lil' Northwind 20 kit. l
I have the glass bottom to one of those all mounted up on a parting board at home. I wanted to do the same thing... Build a SAW racing boat, but the glass is WAY too thick and brittle on this only hull, which was also new in the box.

So, I'm planning on, one of these days, cleaning it all up and building a mold from it so I can lay them up in Bagged Carbon Fiber. Light, stiff, and strong.

Should make a perfect SAW mono, especially for the low powered stuff I like to play with.
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So, I'm planning on, one of these days, cleaning it all up and building a mold from it so I can lay them up in Bagged Carbon Fiber. Light, stiff, and strong.
yeah, I have the same thought in mind (making a mold of the hull). I have no experience fabricating a mold (or plug) of anything yet, but I'm willing to experiment. Just need the proper direction/technique(s). I would just like to produce one or two hulls for my personal use. Just epoxy glass layup. I'd like to do this soon.

I really wanted a Northwind 40 size, I prefer the larger footprint. But the Northwind 20 is cool. I built a Northwind way back in the day when they were popular (around 1974). Always liked these boats.

Did you completely remove all the pre-installed plywood rails and bulkheads from your Northwind hull such that it can lay flat upside-down?
 
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Did you completely remove all the pre-installed plywood rails and bulkheads from your Northwind hull such that it can lay flat upside-down?
Yes... They were coming out anyhow from time and being in storage inside the box so long.
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As you can tell, the hull needs some repair on the one corner, but if it's going to be a plug, that's easy.

Funny you should mention the 40 sized... I had a built one (rough, needed a lot of cleanup and repair) that I traded for this 20 kit... I wish I could get one of these that's in the .12 size... like 22" or so...
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Yes... They were coming out anyhow from time and being in storage inside the box so long.
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As you can tell, the hull needs some repair on the one corner, but if it's going to be a plug, that's easy.
I see. So would you just hand-lay glass cloth & resin directly to (cleaned-up and waxed) hull/parting-board assembly? Thanks
 
I see. So would you just hand-lay glass cloth & resin directly to (cleaned-up and waxed) hull/parting-board assembly? Thanks
I was actually thinking about filling the inside with something rigid enough to support vacuum bagging, but we'll see. It's a future project at the moment.
 
I see. So would you just hand-lay glass cloth & resin directly to (cleaned-up and waxed) hull/parting-board assembly? Thanks
I was actually thinking about filling the inside with something rigid enough to support vacuum bagging, but we'll see. It's a future project at the moment.
For fabrication of mold/plug?
 
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I just picked up a ed fisher northwind 40 built

what was the motor of choice an prop for the time

would like to put her back on the water

Marty
 
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