I assume that will get the rear shoes out of the water some?
Yes. On my bud boat when I enter the turns it seemed like I was running through mud. On the straights it's fine. I''ve been dropping my strut a little at a time and its getting better and better.
Wes,
Im not sure which way your talking about. It is a tyndal fin and is nearly against the transom. I have it all the way to the right edge of the ride pad. I was looking at it this morning and I am going to have to come up with a brace or turn buckle like the real boats (from the side of the hull to the turn fin) if I am to move back any. There has got to be ALOT of pressure on that thing and the farther I move back, the more strain I will put on the transom.
My CG is about 7.5" back from the transom and the center of the turn fin is about 3 to 3.5" back. That seems like a long way to me even for a 1/6 scale. I have the motor forward, as well as having my fuel cell and radio box all in the nose.
Yeah you need to see if you can get that CG as close to the center of the fin as you can, having the pivot point (the fin) so far ahead of the CG is not helping you at all. A 3-4" move will most likely dictate getting the weight in the sponson tips to maximize the CG move vs. weight added. The way I've done it before is by drilling a small hole on the inside flat surface near the sponson tips and pouring #8 lead shot (.080" diameter) into the hole followed by West epoxy and plugging the hole when cured. I took regular lead weight strips and stacked them equally on each sponson tip until the boat was close then poured the same weight of lead shot into the sponsons with the boat standing on the sponson tips strapped to the work bench to keep it vertical. When I ran my 1/8 lobster and got the CG on the fin centerline it was a night and day difference and the boat was awesome through the turns, just ask anyone in D12 who had to chase it.
Oh, I seen u run before! I think I'm gonna start with moving the fin back some. Then I'll ad weights. The retrieve boat guys are already wanting me to install a tow hook lol. Do you think a flat fin with say a 10% angle will b ok? Or do I need to use the tyndal fin and send it back a few inches? The tyndal fin was actually coming out of the water some with the wake of the other boats. It would skip out a lane in the turns.Yeah you need to see if you can get that CG as close to the center of the fin as you can, having the pivot point (the fin) so far ahead of the CG is not helping you at all. A 3-4" move will most likely dictate getting the weight in the sponson tips to maximize the CG move vs. weight added. The way I've done it before is by drilling a small hole on the inside flat surface near the sponson tips and pouring #8 lead shot (.080" diameter) into the hole followed by West epoxy and plugging the hole when cured. I took regular lead weight strips and stacked them equally on each sponson tip until the boat was close then poured the same weight of lead shot into the sponsons with the boat standing on the sponson tips strapped to the work bench to keep it vertical. When I ran my 1/8 lobster and got the CG on the fin centerline it was a night and day difference and the boat was awesome through the turns, just ask anyone in D12 who had to chase it.
Hay there Mr. Turnfin! Ya that is and was the design flaw in that boat. They had the same problem with the real one as well. The sponsons should have been way farther back on the boat. Like I said, I have everything up in the nose. I even cut into the boom tube to get the motor forward.
On my way to the lead store now. We'll see what happens.The reason I use the #8 lead shot is because it's so small and you can get it all the way up in the tips of the sponsons without any dead space. Do the best you can to get that CG closer to the vertical centerline of the turn fin.
I buy my lead shot at the local gun shop, very popular size for shotgun shell loading.On my way to the lead store now. We'll see what happens.The reason I use the #8 lead shot is because it's so small and you can get it all the way up in the tips of the sponsons without any dead space. Do the best you can to get that CG closer to the vertical centerline of the turn fin.
