Bolly 40 Pylon.....

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Craig,

We originally had a Rossi in the geared unit but it popped the rod very early in the testing. We found that to get good performance you need to run a short pipe and let the motor rev pretty hard and prop to suit. You have to prop them different to a direct drive. The TT has an excellent rod so we punished it big time to find the fastest setup (40mm shorter pipe than direct drive). The type of pipe makes a big difference too in very high rpm use.

I hear ya on the Perry item - one of those nearly cost me my class at the Hunter Valley Champs one year - I bypassed it and the problems went away!

Hope you get it running soon!

Tim.
 
Craig,

Motor is long gone! Nothing but trouble with that POS even with direct drive.

Tim.
 
Tim,

Well both my gear drives are Rossi.... Have also tried the Cippiola PAS in direct drive and I know it fits the gear drives I have. Really want to try the new Rossi in the gear drive though...

Craig
 
The new Rossi?

Is it the Pirhanna?

I'd like to see the exhaust throttle on a gear driven 21. How does it look?
 
Tim,

Both engines are the old Rossi but I do want to try a new one.... just gotta see how the hip pocket is after paying for all this stuff!!!

Craig
 
What kind of problems were you guys having with the Perry needle?

Been running them for years no problem.

Mike
 
Tim, Craig,

I see you guys have found the joys of Perry mixture controls.... :p A friend of mine had no end of trouble with his new boat a few years ago until he finally gave in and tried a different needle, and suddenly all his problems disappeared!

Dave (riggermortise) has a Rossi pirhanna on a gear drive in a mulit, he says it is very fast!

Ian.
 
The Perry needle is very sensitive. You have to hook up the to control horn very close to the hub. With one click on my Futaba 3PJ it will move the flow meter .08.

Mike
 
Mike,

The problem I was having was the valve leaking air from somewhere - couldn't find the leak but it would cause major changes in needle without even touching it. Changed the seals and it made no difference.

Bypassed it and used the main needle in the carb and the fault went away - hooked it back up and the problem came back. Switched to a BVM item and no problems except for the size of it. Shame about the Perry item, it is small, light, easy to mount, and cheap.

Craig,

What about the new Valvola in a geardrive? almost identical to a MAC21. Very popular in FSRV apparently.

Tim.
 
Tim

That is what I like aboout the unit. Cheap, small,and it seems to fit in any boat that I have. Every one of my boats except the 3.5 stock tunnel has them.

Mike
 
Tim,

The CMB needs a different gear drive... not my cup of tea since I have 2 gear units already..

The exhaust throttle looks like a normal unit on bigger engines, and because the engine is reversed, the exhaust comes out the same way as the bigger engines. I will take some pics for you of the boat.

Mike,

Had one in my 67 rigger... same issues as Ian had. In my 21 I could never get a needle on my engine either. It always seemed as if it either couldnt supply enough fuel or it was leaking air... Replaced the 21 needle with an OPS needle and no more problems....

Craig
 
The needle needs to be set up the way the package says. If it is out 180 degrees it causes problems. It sounds like you guys my have had it backwards to the block. I was checking a new one one time to see what it would do if I turn it around. It did not behave in a proportional maner. This might of been your problem.

Mike
 
Mike,

I will give that a try on it and let you know - I still have the unit somewhere.

I did not remove it from the boat at the time it started happening or dismantle it so I'm not sure how it would have rotated 180 degrees, but I will give your suggestion a try anyway.

Craig, look forward to seeing some pic's - you could have a potentially record setting boat on your hands with that one.....

Tim.
 
Mike,

I cant speak for Ian but mine were all installed correctly. It did sort of work for my 45 rigger and 67 mono but the other boats were nothing but trouble. I can see that if you get a good one it would probably be ok but I have a 40% success rate with them... thats enough for me to steer clear of them. Other units I have tried ( the A engine remotes I have 4 of running now, The OPS, The Aeromarine) are all trouble free.

Craig
 
Does anyone have a Perry needle valve packet & or instructions they can scan or take a picture of? Mine is long gone!!!!
 
One side of the block says Perry on it. The +- dial notch should be on this side. The hex end shaft has a dimple, this should be opposite of the notch. The arm usually comes on the side that the dimple is on. Though I did have one that was out 90 degrees. It does not really matter. The outlet to the carb is on the P side of the block. The fuel inlet is on the Y side. I stress that you have to have the pushrod as close to the hub of the control horn as possible. I use small servos. This gets it even closer to the center. If not, you can go from way fat to way lean in a heart beat.

Mike
 
Mike,

The person I know who used the Perry mixture control is quite a experienced boater, he bought the unit new and he is one of the most meticulous people I have ever met! I am sure he had it setup as per instructions. This is the sort of bloke whose boat looks like it is brand new by the time he packs it away after a race! He was not even using it as a 3rd channed needle, only a remote needle.

He has since changed over to an OPS unit which has been totally reliable for him for about 5 years so far.... 8)

Ian.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top