That is the mount, set screw and screws. The piano wire and groumet is part of the engine weight. I did the best weighing I could on all the items but it is possible to be off by 0.1oz. I weighed the hull first and then kept weighing as I added parts. My digital scale weighs down to 0.2oz and if it goes back and fourth from say 9.02oz to 9.04oz I write down 9.03oz. By the way those are SS machine screws with nuts and you could use aluminum screws only. Also, on the inside of the hull I have a small piece of 1/16" ply for the nuts to push up against.
I made that list because I thought it would help some new builders gauge where some of the weight comes from and where they could make some savings. I used the same parts that came out of my old
rigger except for the battey (5 cell AAA nimh,720mah), only the strut barrel and I used your finishing method. The old boat weighed in at just a tick over 3lbs.
My mount is 1"x1/2", 3/32" thick at the flanges and 1/4" thick in the center 5/16" wide with 4/40 screws. I think 3/4"wide by 1/2" and 1/4" wide in the center with 2/56 machine screws would work just as well.
It's approx .064 aluminum. I think it's the same as what Grim is making his out of. I think it will be fine but if not I will add a little support to the right side of the fin on the rear of the sponson. Like a little L bracket or just a wood block to keep it from bending in a hard turn. That't the way I did it on the .67. Also if you look at the 1st picture, about 3/16" of the blade is laying against the inside of the sponson which should help.
The V937's aren't in too bad of shape out of the package for an Octura. Mine wasn't difficult to work on, I cut the crap out of my finger with it and I usually can't with my other ones. One of the blades is right in the way of the drive dog so you have to do some trimming there to get it on.
Mark Sholund can do one for you but like most people, he'd rather not do a 3-blade as they are a PITA to balance.
Thats exactly what I'm thinking Ron. I have enough trouble with 2 blades to even think about doing a small 3 blade. ;D I've got a S/S 215 that may be OK but I'm thinking I will probably need more lift for my .12. Even if I have to add the outside rears, I like to mount them fairly shallow for less interference except when needed.
Anyway, I thought there was somewhere on the net that you could order one ready to go. Andy Brown?
Mike, My wife has planned a family get together this weekend but I might make it by next weekend. I'm beginning to hate you. > By the time I think I've got what I want, you build something that gets my thoughts going in another direction and before I can even think about that you're going another step farther. You're really beginning to piss me off! ;D
My new prop has not arrived from Andy as yet but in the next few days I plan to test it with a 215. In the meantime I just couldn't get use to a
boat without a tail. I was worried about how to remove the rears if needed because of how well the servo tape sticks. We used to bolt them on to the larger boats which worked great but will add too much weight for a .12. Anyway, Marty Davis told me that dental floss works great to cut through the tape. Just what I needed to know! I added the rears at 2 degrees and 1/8" above the bottom of the strut which is 1/16" below the C/L of the shaft.
The fuel you see in the first picture is for me! ;D ;D ;D