45 VAC teardown.

Terry Keeley · Jul 4, 2012

Got 27 runs on her, probably a coupla gallons, lookin' good!

You can see where the backplate was rubbing on the case, I used a thin layer of RTV to stop it.

Changed the needles as a precaution but these aren't bad after breakin.

Very happy with it so far, much stronger than my purple heads, looking froward to pushing them a bit!

Specs here if interested: https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10068/2012_CMB_VAC_45.xls

RodneyPierce · Jul 4, 2012

Looks great Terry!! But then again, i didnt expect anything less from you either

Ray Sametz · Jul 5, 2012

Ok, what you hiding in the drum intake.

h34r: My drum has only one crankpin hole drilled clean thru, a mod buy you???? Very clean for 2 gallons.PS. stop biting your finger nails.

tnrcboatracer · Jul 5, 2012

VAC has to have the crank side of the drum plugged. The straight through drums are on the HR motors.

Charles Perdue · Jul 5, 2012

Terry Keeley said:
Got 27 runs on her, probably a coupla gallons, lookin' good!

You can see where the backplate was rubbing on the case, I used a thin layer of RTV to stop it.

Changed the needles as a precaution but these aren't bad after breakin.

Very happy with it so far, much stronger than my purple heads, looking froward to pushing them a bit!

Specs here if interested: http://gallery.intlw..._CMB_VAC_45.xls

Terry, a gasket maker/sealer called Hylomar works very good for a form-in-place gasket. It is used primarily in metal to metal situations. Mercury Marine. Porsche, General Motors are some of companies that use it. It is quite a bit better than silicone for this purpose.

You can get it at any good auto parts store.

Charles

Terry Keeley · Jul 5, 2012

Charles Perdue said:
Terry, a gasket maker/sealer called Hylomar works very good for a form-in-place gasket. It is used primarily in metal to metal situations. Mercury Marine. Porsche, General Motors are some of companies that use it. It is quite a bit better than silicone for this purpose.

You can get it at any good auto parts store.

Charles

There's actually an o-ring to seal the case but with the vibs and metal to metal contact you get the rub marks and black streaks outta the joint.

Put some simple black Permatex on it and the rubbing stopped.

stan simpson iv · Jul 5, 2012

I have a Die Grinder that you can borrow...Just turn it on and drop it in the motor a couple of times,maybe three

Motor looks REAL good.

Terry Keeley · Jul 5, 2012

stan simpson iv said:
I have a Die Grinder that you can borrow...Just turn it on and drop it in the motor a couple of times,maybe three Motor looks REAL good.

LOL!

brett english · Jul 5, 2012

Terry where are u at for head clearance?? and what % nitro?

Terry Keeley · Jul 5, 2012

brett english said:
Terry where are u at for head clearance?? and what % nitro?

0.012" , 60% with 12% oil (15% first few tanks)

Still can't get over the CR, just keep it on the rich side and it's happy!

Rick Doane · Jul 5, 2012

Stanley IV is beginning to sound more like his Pappy every day!

Johnny Brown · Jul 5, 2012

Newbie? the head button and piston dome looked norm to you guys?

cause I thought it looked sadblasted.JB.

Johnny Brown · Jul 5, 2012

Just trying to grt a visual aide with termanologl,I am brand new into boating,thanks man.

RodneyPierce · Jul 6, 2012

The piston looks normal. The head button has a little detonation going on, but nothing to worry about. That little bit of deto could have came from one run that was a little on the leaner side. Knowing Terry, Im sure the motor stays on the rich side of the needle 99% of them time.

David Bryant · Jul 7, 2012

thanks for posting these shots Terry. Would be great to see other current brand/model engines torn down, very helpful.

Terry Keeley · Aug 15, 2014

Thought I'd update this old thread with a quick teardown report 2 years later.

I've got 93 runs on the motor, about the equivalent of 7+ gal. of fuel.

All looks good, started to get some increased end play in the front bearing so I changed them both. Also had 66 runs on the rod needles and found they had worn about 0.0001" (a tenth) and were dark so replaced them too. Interesting the crank pin hasn't worn at all that I can measure.

Piston fit is still good, there was some slight deto on the exhaust side, also on the head, cleaned them up easily with some 400 grit.

There was minor galling on the crank where it seals just before the front bearing, cleaned it off with 400 grit paper.

It's completely stock, head set at 0.012", 60% nitro with 12% oil (1/3rd castor).

David Bryant · Aug 16, 2014

99 runs? wow! And no mods?

Thanks for posting

Pumpin · Aug 16, 2014

Hi Terry,

What prop and pipe do you run and is it a conventional rigger or jae style???

Thanks Kevin.

Terry Keeley · Aug 16, 2014

pumpin said:
Hi Terry,

What prop and pipe do you run and is it a conventional rigger or jae style???

Thanks Kevin.

My own conventional style rigger, 1657's tongue and back cut, Irwin 45 "S" pipes (67 pipe with 1/2 the dead band cut out).

Pumpin · Aug 16, 2014

Hi Terry thanks for the info, are the irwin s pipes still available ??? If not what would be the next best pipe.

Thanks Kevin.

45 VAC teardown.

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