Zipp 30" tunnel update

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So I have tub built, but is twisted. How do I remove the twist?
If you have not sealed the boat, do so now on one side (top or bottom), sit on wax paper and put a bunch of weight on it to hold it flat and let it cure, then do the other side and keep it flat with lots of weight till dry. that should help a bunch. Make sure you do this on a VERY flat surface.
 
Do you have the deck on? If it is it will be harder but use a heat gun or hair dryer and clamp it with a twist in the opposite direction and heat the whole turbot soften the epoxy and then let it cool. you may have to do it a few times.

Brad
 
Do you have the deck on? If it is it will be harder but use a heat gun or hair dryer and clamp it with a twist in the opposite direction and heat the whole turbot soften the epoxy and then let it cool. you may have to do it a few times.

Brad
I do have have the deck on. Just so I’m understanding correctly… use the clamps on the non twisted sides? I do have heat gun.
The main sheet for the tub is what truly twisted. I tried to straighten it.
 
Should be clamped to a straight frame board when constructing any type hull. Post picture of where your at so we know more where your at
I did have have it clamped and weighted. The main sheet for construction of the tub on mine was warped.

The tub is complete minus stumble blocks and sponsons aren’t glued to tub
 
even is the tub is twisted 1mm, I wouldn't worry personally. AS LONG AS you shim it accordingly while attaching sponsons and ensure the sponsons are sitting even and straight when glueing them.

But if you have time, Brads method of heating it up and adding an opposite twist while clamping to a flat surface while it cools down will certainly help.

if its only like 1/32" of twist, I wouldn't bother personally...
 
Eric, Cross cut the bottom tunnel sheeting and break the boat.. then re-glue the cut. (yes it sounds excessive but.. it is ONE WAY to fix it.. I have done this on airplane wings and tunnel boats for people quite a number of times.

Grim
 
I did have have it clamped and weighted. The main sheet for construction of the tub on mine was warped.

The tub is complete minus stumble blocks and sponsons aren’t glued to tub
Eric, When building my tunnels I usually “square them up” at the step of attaching the sponsons to the center section. I use my machinist builders squares and multiple clamps to hold everything in alignment until the epoxy is dried. Minor warps will come out when it dries. The hull will be straight as an arrow.

Although not a G-30, here’s a pic for reference on my process to possibly solve your center section warping.

John A
 

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Thats a lot. 3/16" ish. You are not going to get that warp out just like it is. It will always want to go back to that. My suggestion is to take off both top decks. It might flex more once those are removed. If that does not do it, you might need to cut the outside center section rail loose from the bottom sheet. It might only take about half of it to get it back right. Start with the right side first. When you glue it back together make sure you have it weighted down on a flat build board. I think the top decks will help a ton.

I was able to get a wooden sp20 to unwarp a center section. All I have to do was remove the motor belly pan that ran from nose block back about 10". Jigged it up and glue it back true.
Mike
 
cross cut the bottom.. twist to break.. re-glue the cut line.. thats a TON of twist!

use a straight edge and a single edge razor. Go slow and work your way tough the bottom sheeting.

I would then fixture up on a table saw and just nick the sides back in before the sponsons go on.

Chiropractic TIME!

Grim
 

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