Zipp 30" tunnel update

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Thinking about getting one, building it as P limited.
Is it necessary for any areas to be reinforced?
Anyone else hate bind nuts for outdrive to mount the transom. Was seeing if anyone drilled holes and used nylon lock nuts instead?
 
Hello Eric....the boat is rock solid as it is...but as a precaution I did make an additional support for the rear transom... the instructions it shows the single servo mount and support...I did the same on the opposite side...plenty of wood in the kit for this additional modification.
Other than that...it's a fast and very competitive boat built as zippkits instructions say....and as far as blind nuts....just a nut to the inside and lock it all together...enjoy the build...any questions just ask..
 

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Thinking about getting one, building it as P limited.
Is it necessary for any areas to be reinforced?
Anyone else hate bind nuts for outdrive to mount the transom. Was seeing if anyone drilled holes and used nylon lock nuts instead?

Depending on what outboard mount you use, you may want to drill & tap an aluminum plate. If the mount you are using moves up and down on the transom this will make it a lot easier to adjust. No need to put a wrench on the inside. I believe Stumpfab has "transom backing plates" available for K&B and OS.
 
Depending on what outboard mount you use, you may want to drill & tap an aluminum plate. If the mount you are using moves up and down on the transom this will make it a lot easier to adjust. No need to put a wrench on the inside. I believe Stumpfab has "transom backing plates" available for K&B and OS.
Oops, I thought mentioned the outboard I would be using. I’m going with lawless 3.5 quickdrive. So it be adjustable up and down. Good idea with aluminum backing plate.
 
I have always wondered about a aluminum backing plate....why...the transom is already almost 1/2" thick....I just put one washer in between the transom and the motor motor mount...the washers will slightly imbed themselves into the transom then the motor mount will slide up/down with ease
 
Robert,
The plate isn't there to strengthen the transom. It's mounted on the inside of the boat and takes the place of the nuts/ T-nuts. With the plate you don't need to hold a wrench on the nuts. You can make small adjustments to the motor height by just loosening the screws from the outside. Nitro boats often have fuel tanks close to the transom and makes getting access to the nuts a pita.
 
Zach...I understand the reason....just seems to add more dead weight ....blind nuts (T-nuts) do the same without the added weight...and that's why I add thin washer to the transom between the motor mount and transom...then the motor mount slides up/down on the washers and won't stick
 
I suspect what you will find.. is you might like the plate as an update at some point. You will end up with less loosening between race seasons.

No wrong way!

Grim
I too am thinking long term. Bind nuts generally don’t have long enough teeth to “bite” into the wood, then they start to tear the wood up where the bind nut is mounted after while.
 
I too am thinking long term. Bind nuts generally don’t have long enough teeth to “bite” into the wood, then they start to tear the wood up where the bind nut is mounted after while.
Eric,
Another great option is to go with one of Capt Vic's Hi-Jack mounts. They have tons of adjustment and work great with the Lawless lower. Once it's mounted you never have to move it. I'm using them on my G30's.
 
Eric,
Another great option is to go with one of Capt Vic's Hi-Jack mounts. They have tons of adjustment and work great with the Lawless lower. Once it's mounted you never have to move it. I'm using them on my G30's.
i have a 7.5 as well as a 3.5 capt vic mount, high quality and great adjustability
 
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