Wood Whiplash Sport 40 Gen 2 Build Infomation

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Beau Parsons

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
1,518
I am trying my first attempt at a wood boat, I purchased a kit from Blazer Marine, Sport 40 Gen 2 kit. I am building the skeleton at the moment, I would like to hear anybody's advice on building techniques, suggested hardware, addition bracing, tanks and proper placement, radio box setup, ect. If anybody has pictures and any help this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Beau Parsons
 
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flat level surface, keep the frame square, tac it with CA, then go over with Epoxy then paint bottom after cutting down the cowl sides to frame 4 so the floor will bend even with frame 5 for the air traps,with epoxy and set it making sure everything is square , when you get that far will take you to the next step Brian does have instructions on his web site to build the gen.1 kit very simular
 
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I am finished with the skeleton I need a set of speedmaster motor mounts, rudder, strut, who carries these items to date? I have a turn fin just need the remainder hardware any help would be great.

Thanks Beau Parsons
 
I am looking at the radio box that is very small, does anybody have a picture of how they fit all the items in there, receiver, battery, and three servos, throttle, rudder, and third channel. Man it is a tight squeeze to say the least. Who sells the heavy duty rod that runs the full length of of the boat for the rudder linkage?

Thanks Beau
 
Beau, I use old carbon fiber arrows. Cut off the ends to the desired length. Drill a hole prox. 2" from the ends the same size as your 4 40 rod. Bend the end of the rod so it just fits into the arrow. I have a lathe to make the end caps but you could epoxy the rod into the arrow. I use a soldered end on one end and a threaded ( adjustable ) one on the other for the clevis.

This makes a very strong and non flexable linkage.

The Dad
 
Pretty much everything you've been told so far is exactly right. I never left a frame for any length of time without weights on it to keep it flat. I marked my building board with guide lines to help keep the frame square. Do not put the bottom sheeting on unless it's square and flat or you'll have a heck of a time fixing it. I build pushrods the same as Bob but I use Dave Brown carbon fiber rods and drill their ends to fit snugly over 4-40 pushrods. Keep the wire rods as short as you can. Here are some pics of how I do the radio boxes. There's room for a 5 cell hump pack in the empty space in front of the 3rd channel servo. The switch is operated thru a hole in the box lid which is covered with tape after turning the radio on.

DSCF0017.jpg

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Here's a shot of my Gen 1 Whip. I have since added a mixture servo in that little space to the left (picture view). Used carbon fibre rod to rudder (with a support about half way back). Throttle servo is attached to rudder servo with servo tape. Kerry

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heres the way I had some of mine, drew a pic, not to scale of coarse, a flat 5 cell stands up along the side theres no wrong way just gotta make it work with what you have, standard steering servo mini throttle and 3rd channel servos2013 radiobox whip40.jpg
 
Here's a shot of my Gen 1 Whip. I have since added a mixture servo in that little space to the left (picture view). Used carbon fibre rod to rudder (with a support about half way back). Throttle servo is attached to rudder servo with servo tape. Kerry
Talk about five pounds of **** in a one pound bag!!!.
 
Here's a shot of my Gen 1 Whip. I have since added a mixture servo in that little space to the left (picture view). Used carbon fibre rod to rudder (with a support about half way back). Throttle servo is attached to rudder servo with servo tape. Kerry
Talk about five pounds of **** in a one pound bag!!!.
Actually it's only about a 1/2 LB bag!
 
I am looking at using a twin tank setup from Walt, if you are looking from the back of the boat to the front which tank needs a hopper and which one does not?

Beau
 
Beau,

I run twin tanks in all my hull scales or sport 40s. I always drain the tanks right tank ( skid fin sponson) to left side tank(slide sponson). This way you always have the heavy side on the outside of the hull to help counteract the prop torque trying to lift the left sponson. Also you are not fighting the centifical force pushing the fuel outward from the corners.

I have a Whiplash gen. 1 set-up this way and have been running for about 7 or 8 years now. The boat has been in the winner circle many times.

Bert Dygert
 
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Here's a shot of my Gen 1 Whip. I have since added a mixture servo in that little space to the left (picture view). Used carbon fibre rod to rudder (with a support about half way back). Throttle servo is attached to rudder servo with servo tape. Kerry
Talk about five pounds of **** in a one pound bag!!!.
Here's a shot of my Gen 1 Whip. I have since added a mixture servo in that little space to the left (picture view). Used carbon fibre rod to rudder (with a support about half way back). Throttle servo is attached to rudder servo with servo tape. Kerry
Talk about five pounds of **** in a one pound bag!!!.
Just put the radio in mine, will use one tank, mounted the motor at an angle to lessen the S bend in the shaft log, filled sponsons with pink foam. I will try and post a picture. My tele is 205-936-9583 .
 
Mr. Turner

If you can post a few pictures this would be great. I am learning from trial and error basis on this particular boat. This is my first wood attempt boat kit. I am concerned that I am going to use a CMB 45 VAC, will I have enough fuel for a this beast, with only one tank for a heat race. I want to be able to remove these tanks in case they break or get smashed. I will call you this weekend I have a few questions I need answered.

Thanks

Beau
 
Here are some pictures. I have taken everything out of it and and sealing everything. I will have my tank next week. Running one witn hopper in the tank. got a little over 15 oz. It will be on the RT side. but about 1/3 of the tank is in the middle of the hull. I will be able to get the tank out.

Inorder to get the tank in I mounted the motor on angle therefore flattening the stuffing box tube so that it was not so high in the hull. really helped. We had to play around with the opening to get it to work. the pick ups will be on the LT side of the tank so the centrifical force will not be an issue in picking up the fuel.

Inorder to run a third channel Mark Bullard modified the needle block to make things work. Again the radio situation is not easy.
 
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