Which ESC?

[Propjockey]

Ok, Y'all. What ESC do I need to run a 12-14 turn car motor on 6/7 RC2400s? I can't imagine it pulling more than 30 amps, and there are lots of cheap ESCs in that range...but are limited in the number of turns they can handle.

"Cheap" is the operative word here folks. I don't race, and can't see spending $80 + on this particular toy. :blink:

 

[forresterace]

Propjockey

You have no doubt heard the expression "buy cheap - buy twice". In your example I would not recommend an esc with less than 60 amp capacity! There is no question that for brushed motor esc's, the ONLY way to go is RCHydros.

http://www.rc-hydros.com/

$70-75 will buy you a speed control that will be fully waterproof (will run submerged), has 60 amp cont. capacity and will last you for many years and give you performance room to step up in power. Sometimes you can find one of Andy's controllers used for a little less, but to spend less for a new control is a potential waste of your money.

 

[Pagemaster]

A good esc is an investment. I still own my first rc hydros 1024 esc. Its been threw hell and back, Still going. Why spend 30-40 only to have to problems? May people have gone the cheap route and in the end, end up with the rc hydros. If you can keep your motor comp bone dry go the car esc route.

Penguin PG-614/60W fits your needs. Free shipping until xmas!

 

[Climate Models]

I have to respectfully disagree with all of you.

You can now get a great brushed speed control for a lower price.

The Castle controllers are 100% waterproof, they are small, and they have some nice programming features that no other controllers have.

Service is much better than any other company today. (if you ever need it)

The Pegasus 35 is simply amazing at $49.95

Here is a link to the marine speed controls, check it out for yourself.

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/marine/marine.html

Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com

 

[Pagemaster]

Peter will a 12/13 turn motor pull more than 35 amps on 7cells? One prop mistake and the black smoke will be rising. Also is the Castle water cooled?

Dont get me wrong they make some nice controls. As a matter of fact I'm now a dealer for them. I just think the pg-614 fits the applications more.

 

[Propjockey]

Peter will a 12/13 turn motor pull more than 35 amps on 7cells? One prop mistake and the black smoke will be rising.

Don't these things have some sort of overload protection?

Ok, so lets say I dump $$$ into a decent controller, (kinda like putting Centerline rims on a Pinto, but hey...) what will this little boat do?

22" ABS mono (not fancy)

15/2 Trinity Speed Gem

7 or 8 RC2400s

X430 or E2514

Also, the motor is rated for 6 cells...can I safely dump 8 into if it's water cooled?

Thanks y'all.

 

[Kris Flynn]

looks like someone has the itch for FE

Gotta Love it!!!

 

[TERRANCE NISSEN]

Propjockey,

I have an RC-Hydros PG612/60wbec that will handle 6-12 cells, 60Amps, and can also run down to a 10T modified (According to Andy K. of RC-hydros). It can also be run with a size 700 motor. And it has BEC so you can get rid of the extra weight of the 4 AA cells. It is used. I ran it four times and it is awesome. I am selling it to get the 90Amp version of this ESC. If you are interested you can email me at [email protected] I am asking $55.00 for it and it comes in the original package along with the instructions. You can go to Rum Runner to the Swap Shop and check it out there. The post has a picture of the speed control. I bought this ESC for $75.00 but like I said, I am only asking for $55.00. Let me know if your interested.

 

[Guest]

Here is a direct link to the post at rum runner.

ESC

 

[Propjockey]

Kris, yeah it's addictive. I went from a Mabuchi 550 to a 21 turn car motor and almost doubled the speed! Thought to myself, "Hey!! I could have some real fun with this!"

Terrance...YGM

 

[Guest]

Prop jockey which hull are you changing motors in and which props are you using

a 12-13 turn car motor will pull 50 amps continuous in a 6 cell setup. More if you have even small props running submerged

Also the brushes and comm will last only 3-6 runs as the amps burn them up and then it will need a comm cut.

With electric boats its about balance. COmpared to cars the loads in boats are far greater due to water drag and proepellor slip and are continuous

 

[Propjockey]

Well let's see here...

I used a FE Calc program someone on here recommended and played with it 'till I found a combination that will give decent performance without stressing the equipment too badly.

This is what I came up with...

The setup--

*Trinity Speed Gem 15/2

*8 RC2400s

*RCHydros PG614/60 ESC

*Rum Runner Hobbies E2514 prop (1 x 1.38)

*Dean's Ultra connectors

The specs--

*31593 RPM

*30.32 Amps

*est. 4.66 min run time

*est. 31.79 MPH

*80.25% efficiency

The hull is a JPK 22" ABS mono I snagged off eBay. Definitely NOT a high perf hull, but it was cheap (the boat was originally designed as a retrieval boat).

 

[Climate Models]

I hate to burst your bubble, but your specs. from that calc. are not correct.

You are not going to get 4.6 min of run time at 32 MPH out of that set up. I would be surprised if you actually got much over 2.5 min. at 25 MPH

The JPK hull is pretty fat at the back end. (the hull is wedge shaped)

Static RPM in your set up might be in the 25000 range, you will fry that motor in short order on 8 cells. It will be working hard to spin a prop in the water at 15000 RPM.

I think the amp draw is also very conservative. You might get away with it using a very small prop, but my guess is it will cavitate like crazy, and then burst in to flames after a few min. of running.

Now to try and turn this around to be more positive......

A higher torque motor, and larger prop will be much better suited to that hull style.

Try something in the 19-21 turn range. Run 6-7 cells and play with props a bit.

You should be able to get in to the mid 20MPH range and still have 3-4 min of good run time.

As soon as the cells start to dump, shut it down. even a 19-21 turn motor can heat up a battery pack pretty quick when you try to suck every last Amp from it.

Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com

 

[Propjockey]

No prob Peter! Thanks for the info...it's why I love this forum!

Not sure what route I'll go, but rest assured, I'm having fun.

BTW...you should have smelled the Mabuchi after a couple minutes of spinning a fully submerged V937/3! Can you say "smoke test"?

 

[riche]

Hey PJ

you might give this a try....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LL4168&P=1

I run a 1/16 hydro with a 13 turn speed gem an a 7 cell 3000 amp pack it ran 3 times before melting the back or the motor... :blink:

since then I replaced the motor and installed brush coolers...

http://www.fastelectrics.com/brushcoolers.htm

and rapped a piece of copper tubing around the heatsink of the speed controller...

I just adding in my 2 cents... I am in no way smarter than these guys giving you advice....

I wanted to get a Rc-hydros speed control but at the time it was just a hobby to me.

If I could do it again I would spend the cash if I had it!!!!!

 

[forresterace]

You know, nothing against the poster on this, but the Tower published specs (Duratrax) are just typical of the BS hype that has always been rampant in the RC car game. If it wasn't so sad and damaging to the knowledge of youngster's, it would be laughable.

This $40 esc is stated as having a maximum current rating of 300 amps! This is not just BS but it is outright lying. If you were to try to pull even half that number of amps through this esc the fet leads, the traces on the circuit board and even the hook-up wire would all vaporize! I would seriously doubt that one would be advised to load this speed control with much more than 40 amps at the rated max of 10 volts. Even that would be 400 watts - no way - not for very long!

 

[Propjockey]

True enough Doug, but the rated 300 amps is not specified as to whether it is max or continuous. Surely they MEANT max.

The RCHydros PG614/90 is rated at a whopping 450 amps...max(surge). Continuous is 90.

 

[riche]

You know, nothing against the MODERATOR on this, but I thought the original post was for a speed control that would work b/c

"Cheap" is the operative word here folks. I don't race, and can't see spending $80 + on this particular toy.

Can't play the number game with you. I just know that it works for me.... Maybe I am wrong but I just think it would get him by.

It has a protection circuit on it, and have tried different props and shut it down plenty of times with no smoke...

I stated before that I wanted to buy a better speed control but I cut a corner. Guess I didn't know any better at the time. It gets the job done but it doesn't leave any room for improvement.

I started out just like P.J. I didn't want to spend a whole lot of money...

And I am definitely not trying to say this is best speed control.

If everyone thinks that this s.c. will not work for him then I guess I am wrong.

 

[Propjockey]

If everyone thinks that this s.c. will not work for him then I guess I am wrong.

Hey, I was told the Futaba aircraft ESC I had wouldn't work either.

Thanks for all the input y'all. If it goes well, I'll get a decent hull and decent gear...but right now, "cheap" is still the operative word. (I know. It's annoying. Sorry. )

riche---thanks for the link on the brush coolers. I had seen that before, but couldn't remember where. Are you still using a 13 turn motor? If so, how often are you changing brushes? And what prop?

Thanks again y'all.

 

[riche]

yup I bet you did b/c I posted it some time back for you!!!!

Gary Findlay is a very nice guy... help me allot through the e-mail.

right now I am running an x430...

(brushes)I run for fun... so I just clean them up after each day of running.

I buy a new pair when I get to 1/2 way down....(try to get as much use as possible out of them)

(I need to get a r/c car friend that is a fanatic that has all the armature truing stuff!!!!!)

I just picked up the speed gem pro 15 turn. I ran it once. and the 13 turn as a little more.

I would love to learn how to cut the prop to take some of the load off but not lose top side...