- Joined
- Jan 2, 2006
- Messages
- 3,117
yeah, but the end of the shaft and the hole in the stub shaft,,, are they broached like a hex key ? can't just be glued together right ?
Nope, nothing elaborate, just a hole to fit the wire and an alignment fixtureyeah, but the end of the shaft and the hole in the stub shaft,,, are they broached like a hex key ? can't just be glued together right ?
660 loctite ‘quick metal ‘ is the best for attaching these together. Give it a try. I learned about it from making dies for a company that forms pellets that go into catalytic converters. Later a guy in the shop missed his interference fit on a bushing, so he turned it .005” smaller than the bore and used 660 on it. He installed the bushing halfway and got distracted. Came back and he could not beat it in with a sledge hammer. Just use it plain with no activators at all.This seems to work best. Fit up and cleanliness is critical
Well it does. The wire will break in most cases before it slips the hub. The binding strength of quick metal is hard for some to understand. But it’s for real.That amazes me that the shaft is not keyed in any way and that the slip fit and glue holds up to a 90 or gas motor....
just don't get that warm fuzzy feeling that I get with a 1/4 flex shaft.. I guess if your going for speed records where every ounce of power matters, I can see it, but heat racing..? IDK...
Very closeSo, Doc, there must be enough wall in the strut to allow boring to the BB O.D. then, right?
Very close
Done with a mill. Drill then reamer
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