What Epoxy are you using

[HOTWATER]

So epoxy isnt fuel proof? is there anything the average guy can use without setting up a paint shop with a booth to paint one boat? lol

Before i had access to automotive paints and spray equipment, i built and finished boats all the time with hobby brand adhesives and paints and they worked decent and the boats and thier finishes lasted a long time...im the average guy! Now...what percentage nitro are you going to use? I used to use Pactra Formula-U rattlecan polyurethane color and clear, i think you can get it at Tower Hobbies and it handled 40% nitro just fine at the time...most Epoxies if properly mixed and applied can resist nitro, but i dont care what kind of epoxy or paint you use, if you spill raw nitro on your boat youd better wipe it off pretty quick! I run 60% nitro in my stuff now and i use West Systems Epoxy/Dupont Imron paint/500s Clear and have accidently dripped nitro on the finish and watched it swell...it does level out after a few minutes and looks fine, but the nitro will effect it if you leave it on the finish long enough. Im sure that there are other products that are available that will work satisfactorily for the "average guy" and i do understand your frusteration. I built and finished boats for years using nothing but hobby shop stuff and it worked okay...you just may have to experiment a little! Ive also used Pacer finishing resin (epoxy) with good results..just brush or squeege it on, sand smooth ,then brush on another coat..if you dont like how it looks, then sand it smooth and do it again until your happy with the finish. You can get it at a hobby shop or Tower hobbies! You can get West Systems at Marine supply stores and it is great stuff, and its easy to use, but it aint cheap!

Thanks Bill! Very good information here!! I used to use Black Baron rattle cans but was just unsure about sealing the inside of the tub more than anything to be honest! Everyones opinion means alot to me here! Back 15+ years ago (before online stuff...or before I actually had a computer...LOL!) You were pretty much on your own to trial and error things...even though I did have RCBM every month to scan through....I feel very fortunate to have everyone's opinion so I can come to a conclusion!!

Many thanks to everyone! That is what these forums are all about!!

-Kent

 

[ww29]

i asked about the west systems and no one told me anything about it.i never used it and this is my first build.i would like to know what all is needed and how many coats u need put on and how thick it needs be.would be nice if someone would tell me something

 

[Tim_Duggan]

i asked about the west systems and no one told me anything about it.i never used it and this is my first build.i would like to know what all is needed and how many coats u need put on and how thick it needs be.would be nice if someone would tell me something

Brush it on, let it sit on there for 10-20 minutes, then scrape the excess off with a playing card. Let it cure, then scrape the surface with a single edge razor blade. Then repeat the whole process again. I do this twice, and some do it three times. Then it's time to prep for paint.

Hope this helps.

 

[Tony Newland]

So epoxy isnt fuel proof? is there anything the average guy can use without setting up a paint shop with a booth to paint one boat? lol

Before i had access to automotive paints and spray equipment, i built and finished boats all the time with hobby brand adhesives and paints and they worked decent and the boats and thier finishes lasted a long time...im the average guy! Now...what percentage nitro are you going to use? I used to use Pactra Formula-U rattlecan polyurethane color and clear, i think you can get it at Tower Hobbies and it handled 40% nitro just fine at the time...most Epoxies if properly mixed and applied can resist nitro, but i dont care what kind of epoxy or paint you use, if you spill raw nitro on your boat youd better wipe it off pretty quick! I run 60% nitro in my stuff now and i use West Systems Epoxy/Dupont Imron paint/500s Clear and have accidently dripped nitro on the finish and watched it swell...it does level out after a few minutes and looks fine, but the nitro will effect it if you leave it on the finish long enough. Im sure that there are other products that are available that will work satisfactorily for the "average guy" and i do understand your frusteration. I built and finished boats for years using nothing but hobby shop stuff and it worked okay...you just may have to experiment a little! Ive also used Pacer finishing resin (epoxy) with good results..just brush or squeege it on, sand smooth ,then brush on another coat..if you dont like how it looks, then sand it smooth and do it again until your happy with the finish. You can get it at a hobby shop or Tower hobbies! You can get West Systems at Marine supply stores and it is great stuff, and its easy to use, but it aint cheap!

Thaks for the time to fill me in I'm running 50% nitro (at least thats what I'll be running next year, been out of boating for a few years and just now getting back into it with a JAE .12) Back in the day I made all my radio boxes in my ABS tunnels and just used 30min epoxy and had no issues, but this boat is all wood and will eventually get some fuel on it..... but I'm pretty handy with a rag an shouldnt have any issues. I think I'll also do the squeege application as I want to seal it, but keep it light as well. I've ordered some of the finishing resin you mentioned...... is the finishing stuff as thick as std epoxy? if so I think I might want to thin it alittle with acetone so is lays on decent.

Thanks for the info, its valuable to myself....... a newbie second time around

 

[shoboat]

Boaters,

I think MAS finishing epoxy is a little thinner and lighter than

West Systems. I used to use West Systems, but now I think MAS is

the way to go for me. Another good option is just shoot the boat

with PPG clearcoat. Whatever you are comfortable with!!!

Have Fun Testing,

Mark Sholund

 

[Alexander King]

Boaters,

I think MAS finishing epoxy is a little thinner and lighter than

West Systems. I used to use West Systems, but now I think MAS is

the way to go for me. Another good option is just shoot the boat

with PPG clearcoat. Whatever you are comfortable with!!!

Have Fun Testing,

Mark Sholund

How abou this...

Does anyone have Photos of a boat or project that they have finished with any finishing resin they have used a few years ago(before use) and a good photo of now (after use) some examples of yellowing or oils getting under the finish? I think this would be useful in which system works best and advantages of each one.

 

[ww29]

what is the purpose of scraping with razor blade?

 

[Brad Christy]

William,

It serves the same function as sanding, but won't round your edges and leaves the surface extremely smooth. My method of applying sealing epoxy is to "scrub" it in with a paper towel. If you're doing a large surface, the paper towel will eventually start to shred, and you will have to start with a new one. I generally tear one in half and use on half until it dies, pitch it and finish with the second half. After it sets up (I usually let it set for at least 24 hrs), you can go back with the razor and scrape the "excess" off with relatively little effort. The second (and third) coat goes on much quicker, becaue the surface is alot smoother the second time around. Usually two coats will do the job, but a third can't hurt anything, and you're scraping 99% of what you put on back off, so there is VERY litte weight gain with the follow-up coats. All you're really doing with the repeat coats is filling in what the previous coat(s) missed.

One word of caution: Only mix up what you can apply before the epoxy starts to set up. Once it starts to kick, toss it and start a new batch. Epoxy doesn't soak in nearly as well after it starts to thicken up.

BTW, I wouldn't use 5 min epoxy for anything but field repairs. One thing to remember, and most people don't know this, is that 5 min epoxy NEVER fully cures. Just remember, the longer it takes epoxy to set up, the stronger and harder it will be.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros

 

[Bill Gibson]

So epoxy isnt fuel proof? is there anything the average guy can use without setting up a paint shop with a booth to paint one boat? lol

Before i had access to automotive paints and spray equipment, i built and finished boats all the time with hobby brand adhesives and paints and they worked decent and the boats and thier finishes lasted a long time...im the average guy! Now...what percentage nitro are you going to use? I used to use Pactra Formula-U rattlecan polyurethane color and clear, i think you can get it at Tower Hobbies and it handled 40% nitro just fine at the time...most Epoxies if properly mixed and applied can resist nitro, but i dont care what kind of epoxy or paint you use, if you spill raw nitro on your boat youd better wipe it off pretty quick! I run 60% nitro in my stuff now and i use West Systems Epoxy/Dupont Imron paint/500s Clear and have accidently dripped nitro on the finish and watched it swell...it does level out after a few minutes and looks fine, but the nitro will effect it if you leave it on the finish long enough. Im sure that there are other products that are available that will work satisfactorily for the "average guy" and i do understand your frusteration. I built and finished boats for years using nothing but hobby shop stuff and it worked okay...you just may have to experiment a little! Ive also used Pacer finishing resin (epoxy) with good results..just brush or squeege it on, sand smooth ,then brush on another coat..if you dont like how it looks, then sand it smooth and do it again until your happy with the finish. You can get it at a hobby shop or Tower hobbies! You can get West Systems at Marine supply stores and it is great stuff, and its easy to use, but it aint cheap!

Thaks for the time to fill me in I'm running 50% nitro (at least thats what I'll be running next year, been out of boating for a few years and just now getting back into it with a JAE .12) Back in the day I made all my radio boxes in my ABS tunnels and just used 30min epoxy and had no issues, but this boat is all wood and will eventually get some fuel on it..... but I'm pretty handy with a rag an shouldnt have any issues. I think I'll also do the squeege application as I want to seal it, but keep it light as well. I've ordered some of the finishing resin you mentioned...... is the finishing stuff as thick as std epoxy? if so I think I might want to thin it alittle with acetone so is lays on decent.

Thanks for the info, its valuable to myself....... a newbie second time around

The Pacer finishing resin is thinner and tends to flow out pretty decent...the second coat goes on even better...it is intended for sealing and finishing...doesnt sand out bad either.If i ran out of my West Systems stuff, i would have no problem using the Pacer Finishing resin again!

 

[ww29]

thanks for the info.if i was never told i would have never used a razer blade and sanded everything

 

[Roxyflash]

This place has it all.I also like the system three clear cote for sealing its water thin.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Epoxy%20Resin&categoryId=589&refine=1&page=GRID

 

[Tony Newland]

So epoxy isnt fuel proof? is there anything the average guy can use without setting up a paint shop with a booth to paint one boat? lol

Before i had access to automotive paints and spray equipment, i built and finished boats all the time with hobby brand adhesives and paints and they worked decent and the boats and thier finishes lasted a long time...im the average guy! Now...what percentage nitro are you going to use? I used to use Pactra Formula-U rattlecan polyurethane color and clear, i think you can get it at Tower Hobbies and it handled 40% nitro just fine at the time...most Epoxies if properly mixed and applied can resist nitro, but i dont care what kind of epoxy or paint you use, if you spill raw nitro on your boat youd better wipe it off pretty quick! I run 60% nitro in my stuff now and i use West Systems Epoxy/Dupont Imron paint/500s Clear and have accidently dripped nitro on the finish and watched it swell...it does level out after a few minutes and looks fine, but the nitro will effect it if you leave it on the finish long enough. Im sure that there are other products that are available that will work satisfactorily for the "average guy" and i do understand your frusteration. I built and finished boats for years using nothing but hobby shop stuff and it worked okay...you just may have to experiment a little! Ive also used Pacer finishing resin (epoxy) with good results..just brush or squeege it on, sand smooth ,then brush on another coat..if you dont like how it looks, then sand it smooth and do it again until your happy with the finish. You can get it at a hobby shop or Tower hobbies! You can get West Systems at Marine supply stores and it is great stuff, and its easy to use, but it aint cheap!

Thaks for the time to fill me in I'm running 50% nitro (at least thats what I'll be running next year, been out of boating for a few years and just now getting back into it with a JAE .12) Back in the day I made all my radio boxes in my ABS tunnels and just used 30min epoxy and had no issues, but this boat is all wood and will eventually get some fuel on it..... but I'm pretty handy with a rag an shouldnt have any issues. I think I'll also do the squeege application as I want to seal it, but keep it light as well. I've ordered some of the finishing resin you mentioned...... is the finishing stuff as thick as std epoxy? if so I think I might want to thin it alittle with acetone so is lays on decent.

Thanks for the info, its valuable to myself....... a newbie second time around

The Pacer finishing resin is thinner and tends to flow out pretty decent...the second coat goes on even better...it is intended for sealing and finishing...doesnt sand out bad either.If i ran out of my West Systems stuff, i would have no problem using the Pacer Finishing resin again!

Awesome, I'm just about finished with sheeting everything, then I'll be sealing it. Thanks for all the tips

 

[hydro rob]

Thanks, I ended up using z-poxy 30 min for the assembly and i will use a high quality finish epoxy to cover it. Thanks

 

[Neil LaGarry]

Done most of my finishing with a razor blade I f you know what your doing you .You can thin out epoxy's with KlassKot epoxy reducer

 

[RobertWurster]

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?dispName=PAINT _ MAINTENANCE&jspStoreDir=wm51&catalogId=10001&Nao=130&Ntt=Epoxy &N=377 710 987&langId=-1&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&omniTag=Category:Epoxy &storeId=10001 .Here is a good site for epoxys