WD-40

[Kevin_R_Clark]

My question about this stuff comes from a concern on after- run maintainance. I observed the district guys going to the trouble of taking there motors out of there boats and removing the backplates and flushing etc., there motors thru the backplates. I asked on of the engine/hardware builders why they did not do it what I thought to be the conventional why-thru the carb and bumping with a starter motor. He says that Wd actually relaps the P/L fit when done that way. I also have read where Wd is used to lap in P/L. Now to my way of thinking the Wd is not a good thing to use for lapping, but it is in fact the lack of protection it offers and if you are to hard on the starter this is where the wear is comming from. Anyhow just trying to decide if in fact I need to change my after-run technique. Just seems to me that the thing here is be Frugal on the starter motor.

 

[Bart Drieghe]

WD 40 is NO good after run maintenance !!!!

Its good to flush through when u had some water in your engine but pls oohhh plss don't use it as after run Cause its not an after run oil .

I've done a test once , placed a new bearing in a bag and just sprayed some wd40 on it , After a time it started to rust and thats not what we want do we ?

Use some real after run oil , or , im sure some guys here have a good mixture .

My opinion ,

Bart

 

[nitrotoys]

I have after run mix in a little 2 oz hopper tank, and connect to the carb and crank over the engine, that coats everything.

before i start it again, i pull the glow plug and with rag over the hole, i kick it over a few times. then fire it up and its good to go.

Good oils, air tool oil and or atf and marvel mystery oil.

Tom

 

[boaterbill]

Air tool oil, with some midas touch and marvel mystery oil. Marvel also makes a pneumatice gun oil, works great also

Bill

 

[Grimracer]

Gang

Be careful as marvel oil has something in it called Sent of wintergreen and this can eat plastic parts.

Grim

 

[Don Ferrette]

Gang
Be careful as marvel oil has something in it called Sent of wintergreen and this can eat plastic parts.

Grim

Yup, Grim's right. The stuff you want is Marvel Air Tool Oil NOT the Marvel Mystery Oil. I mix this 50/50 with 30 weight non detergent motor oil. Been using this for years with great results. I do use WD40 to flush the engine out before the after run oil goes in. Also, ALWAYS run some WD40 thru your water jackets after your done running........right Ron?

 

[Kevin_R_Clark]

Yes I use Marvel air tool oil after the WD. Was more wanting to here your thoughts as to Wd causing wear in the P/L area when being used as a flush.

 

[Don Ferrette]

Yes I use Marvel air tool oil after the WD. Was more wanting to here your thoughts as to Wd causing wear in the P/L area when being used as a flush.

Well I've been flushing engines with WD40 for as long as I've been in the hobby & personally have experienced no adverse wear. I think the big key here is how you do it. After I've drained the tank & lines of fuel I'll spray short bursts of WD down the throat of carb for about 15 seconds while just bumping the starter over. Then I'll flip the boat over & drain off what's in the pipe & cylinder & follow it with after run while turning engine over by hand to circulate it. WD does have some lubricating properties & as long as you don't blast the starter during the flush you shouldn't hurt anything. I remember the days of sitting for hours in front of the T.V. with a K&B piston/sleeve & a can of WD40 hand lapping the two pieces. All that was just enough to be able to start the motor to break it in (K&B has never been known for piston to liner fit). As long as you are careful with the use of the starter you should be fine. Besides, one lean run will do far more as wear goes than those bumps with the starter flushing the motor.

 

[shoboat]

Boaters,

RISOLONE FOR AFTER RUN FLUID!

WORKS GREAT! I have been using it for over 16 years with no problems.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund

 

[[email protected]]

Anyone adding Corrision X to this mix or just me?

 

[GTR]

Just have to add my $0.02

WD cannot cause adverse wear in your motor - running it without lubricant will. WD is just what it suggests a Water Dispersant - it does unfortunately also disperse any oil in the engine because of the solvent base it has. There is nothing wrong with flushing it and giving a quick blast with the starter quickly followed up by ATF or similar. Although WD does has a slight amount of lubricant in it, it is insufficient to oil anything that really needs oiling. The lapping with WD has nothing to do with it wearing p&l its all about a light lubricant flushing off the aluminium particles from the lapping process raqther than dry. You do still wash your parts down and then oil them - don't you?

Taking the backplate off to flush - hmmm - as far as I know an air pump works much better if you don't disturb the seal - in other words put your lubricant in the way you would fuel through the carby and you know it gets all the same places as the fuel does. I even recall being told that people take their plugs out to often just to have a look at them and that 99% do them up far tighter than is required to seal. Having followed this advice I change the plug when its obvious something is not right or the edge has gone and I haven't changed mixture but other than that I leave it alone. I also subscribe to the do it up by hand and then nip it up theory for plug tightening - I have seen people reusing copper plug washers? <_<

 

[Danny Bull]

WD-40.... I never leave home without it. A guy I use to go boating with put me on to it about 12 years ago. He holds 24 out of our 50 national speed records in SAW and 1/2K oval (glo and gas) so I'll keep on using it. Current Australian speed records.

Cheers, Danny.

 

[nitrotoys]

I meant Marvel air tool oil, normal air oil or atf.

and you have to flush out cooling lines with wd.

it helps wick away moisture, in engines and cooling heads.

next are we going to talk about flex cable lubes???

havent have that in a while.

Tom

 

[Brian Blazer]

I have used WD40 as an after-run for 14 years now...spray it in the carb, take out the glow plug, turn engine over and spray. I have had zero problems. K.I.S.S!!!

Brian

 

[[email protected]]

Nitrotoys,

For my stuffing tubes I spray white lithium grease inside of the tubes, than I use blue trailer grease directly onto the cable. I haven't broken a cable in 15 years.

 

[tracerbob]

Some years ago, I saw a setup that used a small check valve that replaced the glow plug. The idea was to spray your after run oil into the carb and the check valve puked it all into a catch bottle when you spun the engine over. Does anybody remember this gadgit? Did it work? Does anybody still sell it?

 

[Preston_Hall]

Some years ago, I saw a setup that used a small check valve that replaced the glow plug. The idea was to spray your after run oil into the carb and the check valve puked it all into a catch bottle when you spun the engine over. Does anybody remember this gadgit? Did it work? Does anybody still sell it?

Blow Plug

No check valve, but it works.

I have been letting engines sit all winter with nothing more than the usual WD flush. No problems yet.

 

[Jerry T]

Drill out a glow plug solder in a tube, run the hose in a container so you don't spray the stuff all over yourself. Then fill the motor with air tool oil or trans fluid.

 

[Saugling]

I have used WD40 as an after-run for 14 years now...spray it in the carb, take out the glow plug, turn engine over and spray. I have had zero problems. K.I.S.S!!!
Brian

same here

 

[crrcboatz]

A wholesaler for WD40 and other fluids that called on auto parts houses told me years ago that WD40 stood for WATER DISPLACEMENT 40%. NOW the other 60 % was and hang on to your hats MINERAL SPIRITS. HE said he would NEVER store something long term with it !!!!!

After that I decided to mix MMO and air tool oil 50/50 and use it for flushing. I do use the WD 40 to spray into the cooling heads.

Regards Curt