WD 40 IN THE COOLING JACKET

[Terry Flynn]

Sure do wish I knew about doing this a while ago. Just went to tear down my MAC 84 to put in new bearings and 5 out of 6 bolts broke off. looks like it might be time for a new case.

Thanks for all good advice that everyone is putting on here.

 

[Russell Bear]

looks like it might be time for a new case.

:unsure:
Do some research on broken off head bolts. There are a number of good ideas on getting those bolts out and saving that case. Good luck!

 

[Kez]

Have you tried "Liquid Wrench" or some kind of penentrating oil? I have never had this problem in model engines but they do work very well for rusted bolts in my car. Also, heating the case may help as long as the bolts did not break flush so that you can back out the bolts with a vice grip.

 

[Don Ferrette]

Terry-

Yes you've learned a hard lesson, WD40 thru the water jacket is a must. But for now let's see if we can get those bolts out. Hopefully you have some of the bolt still protruding up out of the holes. Take your Dremel with a thin cut off wheel & slot the top of each bolt. Go to a local auto parts house and get some stuff called PB Blaster. Then heat the case in your oven to about 350 for say 15 minutes, take case out of oven & saturate the bolts with the PB Blaster. Let the case sit & cool off naturally (don't force cool it). Then after it's cooled off heat it to around 400-450 again in the oven for about 15 minutes & try to remove the broken bolts with a small flat blade pocket screwdriver. Hope this helps, good luck!

 

[jydracing]

hi all all of this talk about stuck head bolts is amazing. i always use anti sieze on my head bolts with no problems. this has been working for over 10 years now give it a try. by the way anti sieze was made for sparkplugs in the aluminum heads. heat and water will not bother it. i also use it where the mounting bolts go through the transome. no problems with stuck bolts here eather. see ya jimmy

 

[Terry Flynn]

Thanks guys I was able to get 4 of them out with a little bit of work and soaking it in krol oil but as always there has to be just one. This is what I did to get it out I heated it up to about 150 or so and I took a reversing drill bit to it and started to drill it out about a 1/3 of the way down it caught and backed right out. Thanks for all the suggestions

 

[Don Ferrette]

Thanks guys I was able to get 4 of them out with a little bit of work and soaking it in krol oil but as always there has to be just one. This is what I did to get it out I heated it up to about 150 or so  and I took a reversing drill bit to it and started to drill it out about a 1/3 of the way down it caught and backed right out.  Thanks for all the suggestions 

68306[/snapback]

​

Guess you're gonna be stocking up on WD40............

 

[Terry Flynn]

Thanks guys I was able to get 4 of them out with a little bit of work and soaking it in krol oil but as always there has to be just one. This is what I did to get it out I heated it up to about 150 or so  and I took a reversing drill bit to it and started to drill it out about a 1/3 of the way down it caught and backed right out.  Thanks for all the suggestions 

68306[/snapback]

​

Guess you're gonna be stocking up on WD40............

68376[/snapback]

​

just bought a gallon should last me a few years

 

[Don Ferrette]

just bought a gallon should last me a few years

68393[/snapback]

​

You'll be surprised how fast you use that up. I go thru about 6 large spray cans a season.............

 

[Mike Hughes]

Another option is to change the bolts out to stainless steel. Every once in a while I forget to flush the water jacket. The stainless have no problems with that. I know I forget because some of the motors I have not change over to stainless yet. Too many boats and it the little stuff that you forget.

Mike

 

[Don Ferrette]

Another option is to change the bolts out to stainless steel. Every once in a while I forget to flush the water jacket. The stainless have no problems with that. I know I forget because some of the motors I have not change over to stainless yet. Too many boats and it the little stuff that you forget.Mike

68395[/snapback]

​

No, no, no you definitely do NOT want to do this!! (no offense Mike) While the bolts are stainless & won't corrode they are way weaker than the "black steel" ones. They don't hold their torque settings well because they can & will stretch & then most likely break, ever try drilling out a 6-32 stainless bolt?? You won't, throw the case out & cough up another $100-$200 for a case, depending on the size. I've seen this happen to more than a few boaters & ask any of the "engine gurus" & they will tell you the same thing. Trust me on this one.

 

[Terry Flynn]

Another option is to change the bolts out to stainless steel. Every once in a while I forget to flush the water jacket. The stainless have no problems with that. I know I forget because some of the motors I have not change over to stainless yet. Too many boats and it the little stuff that you forget.Mike

68395[/snapback]

​

No, no, no you definitely do NOT want to do this!! (no offense Mike) While the bolts are stainless & won't corrode they are way weaker than the "black steel" ones. They don't hold their torque settings well because they can & will stretch & then most likely break, ever try drilling out a 6-32 stainless bolt?? You won't, throw the case out & cough up another $100-$200 for a case, depending on the size. I've seen this happen to more than a few boaters & ask any of the "engine gurus" & they will tell you the same thing. Trust me on this one.

68396[/snapback]

​

I was told the same thing about the S.S bolts after a club member looked at my motor he told me to get rid of them. but thanks for the suggestion