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David it's the same thing like my mini twin needle valve setup in the center with 3rd channel. as far as the fixed needles or floating I run them both ways and they are consistent.

Julian
 
david, get a don ferrette base & the os remote needle to match. you'll never want or need another style B) ! consistent, stable settings & the mount is integral with the needle base, machined out of the same block of aluminum. small, light & left or right hand styles to suit your fitment needs. try one, if you don't like it, you can sell it here almost instantly for darn near what you paid for it.
 
No need for christy mixers, the new 4 channel 4pk and 4pks radio allow you to control channel 3 and channel 4 independently or mixed as desired. You can assign the channels to any digital trim or digital thumbwheel in the radio as needed.
 
Boom blocks.

Nub
Nub if you are talking boom block needle base? When you cut your rear tube in half to install it? Your sponsons are flapping in the wind like a kite...... rear boon tube very importtant to hold the sponsons when they are striking the water @ high rate of speed. (Front boom tube pratically does nothing) The rear tube sees all....... Torsional twist & high freq vibration. You had a 7 inch contact pad (boat to Tube) if you put rear boom block in Now you have less contact pad & a lot of FLEX........ maybe you can weld the tubes to the boom block needle control? :blink: :lol:
 
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Boom blocks.

Nub
Nub if you are talking boom block needle base? When you cut your rear tube in half to install it? Your sponsons are flapping in the wind like a kite...... rear boon tube very importtant to hold the sponsons when they are striking the water @ high rate of speed. (Front boom tube pratically does nothing) The rear tube sees all....... Torsional twist & high freq vibration. You had a 7 inch contact pad (boat to Tube) if you put rear boom block in Now you have less contact pad & a lot of FLEX........ maybe you can weld the tubes to the boom block needle control? :blink: :lol:
Better yet, get one of Brett's super strong boom tubes...... :p :lol:
 
Boom blocks.

Nub
Nub if you are talking boom block needle base? When you cut your rear tube in half to install it? Your sponsons are flapping in the wind like a kite...... rear boon tube very importtant to hold the sponsons when they are striking the water @ high rate of speed. (Front boom tube pratically does nothing) The rear tube sees all....... Torsional twist & high freq vibration. You had a 7 inch contact pad (boat to Tube) if you put rear boom block in Now you have less contact pad & a lot of FLEX........ maybe you can weld the tubes to the boom block needle control? :blink: :lol:
Better yet, get one of Brett's super strong boom tubes...... :p :lol:
 
This is just me but the OS Needles have a very coarse adjustment and i don't like them . The best needles I have ever had were Webra Speed 61 . The OS needles in my 90 Twin go crazy when you touch them with a flowmeter attached and it's just a crapshoot as to where you are . Not sure what the answer is .
 
Tom,

What O.S. needles are you using? Remote? Isolated?

Model number? I will have to look up the biggest O.S.

needle number. They work very well.

Let Us Know,

Mark Sholund
 
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This is just me but the OS Needles have a very coarse adjustment and i don't like them . The best needles I have ever had were Webra Speed 61 . The OS needles in my 90 Twin go crazy when you touch them with a flowmeter attached and it's just a crapshoot as to where you are . Not sure what the answer is .

That what I'm talking about you just touch the needle and its all over the place. Have tested BV,CMB ,OS in flight on one of Don's bases,K and thy all do it. some more than others.
 
Boom blocks.

Nub
Nub if you are talking boom block needle base? When you cut your rear tube in half to install it? Your sponsons are flapping in the wind like a kite...... rear boon tube very importtant to hold the sponsons when they are striking the water @ high rate of speed. (Front boom tube pratically does nothing) The rear tube sees all....... Torsional twist & high freq vibration. You had a 7 inch contact pad (boat to Tube) if you put rear boom block in Now you have less contact pad & a lot of FLEX........ maybe you can weld the tubes to the boom block needle control? :blink: :lol:
Better yet, get one of Brett's super strong boom tubes...... :p :lol:
Marty, there's only two of these "Boom valves" that Mr. Doane has manufactured. Nub has one of them. What Joe posted above is pure speculation and you fell for it. Check attached file. If you need these valves for twin , single hydro, mono, tunnel, etc. contact Rick Doane through this board. Mr. Doane will custom build to your need for any kind of needle out there (BVN, OS, CMB, and or Proto Doanes).

P3210002.pdf
 

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Boom blocks.

Nub
Nub if you are talking boom block needle base? When you cut your rear tube in half to install it? Your sponsons are flapping in the wind like a kite...... rear boon tube very importtant to hold the sponsons when they are striking the water @ high rate of speed. (Front boom tube pratically does nothing) The rear tube sees all....... Torsional twist & high freq vibration. You had a 7 inch contact pad (boat to Tube) if you put rear boom block in Now you have less contact pad & a lot of FLEX........ maybe you can weld the tubes to the boom block needle control? :blink: :lol:
Better yet, get one of Brett's super strong boom tubes...... :p :lol:
Very nice set up. ;)
 
Next project is carbs. for big block motors with very trick dual hi side needles. Thats all I am allowed to say for now.
 
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Hey Jose

I think Marty was joking. I have also had the os needles get sticky when you try to turn them. I have removed the needles from the bases, oil the orings and reinstalled them. They adjust smoothly after this for several runs.

As for sponson bending and flexing, I haven't seen any signs that would indicate either. The booms are fitted tightly to the block and screwed together.

They really do make a clean, secure installation.

Sorry they didn't work well for you Joe. That's right, you haven't tried them.

Nub
 
Hey Jose

I think Marty was joking. I have also had the os needles get sticky when you try to turn them. I have removed the needles from the bases, oil the orings and reinstalled them. They adjust smoothly after this for several runs.

As for sponson bending and flexing, I haven't seen any signs that would indicate either. The booms are fitted tightly to the block and screwed together.

They really do make a clean, secure installation.

Sorry they didn't work well for you Joe. That's right, you haven't tried them.

Nub
Dont need TOO NUBBY. I`am Kicking you Butt with Bob Violets Mixture controls......... :lol: :lol: Your the one that chases his needles :lol: :lol: ............... :p .... Ralph & My Twin Boat Only Run Violets.... Nothing Better!!!!! :eek: :blink: :lol: many of the needle bases are ok but the fact that they Incorporate the OS Needles maybe the Problem? Coarse threads & you have to roll the third channel out plenty to flow the fuel needed for a BIG BLOCK! They work Best on 20-40 engines that require less fuel flow.
 
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Any fuel valve that uses threads will "jump" on the flow meter when the valve is touched.
I agree, what you got to offer, cam valves or something else, Joe is correct BVMs are some of the more consistent hi flow valves out there. Note that a close to the carb needle is not what is necessarily indicated for a big block motor. Go figure.
 
I would like to see a Very Precision Barrel Valve With No Internal Leakage...... Even the early model kalistrov fuel valves were Pretty Good too...... I have tried them all in singles & Twin engine boats...... I spent my Money on Bob Violets
 
Boom blocks.

Nub
Nub if you are talking boom block needle base? When you cut your rear tube in half to install it? Your sponsons are flapping in the wind like a kite...... rear boon tube very importtant to hold the sponsons when they are striking the water @ high rate of speed. (Front boom tube pratically does nothing) The rear tube sees all....... Torsional twist & high freq vibration. You had a 7 inch contact pad (boat to Tube) if you put rear boom block in Now you have less contact pad & a lot of FLEX........ maybe you can weld the tubes to the boom block needle control? :blink: :lol:
Better yet, get one of Brett's super strong boom tubes...... :p :lol:
Marty, there's only two of these "Boom valves" that Mr. Doane has manufactured. Nub has one of them. What Joe posted above is pure speculation and you fell for it. Check attached file. If you need these valves for twin , single hydro, mono, tunnel, etc. contact Rick Doane through this board. Mr. Doane will custom build to your need for any kind of needle out there (BVN, OS, CMB, and or Proto Doanes).
No, I was being sarchastic. Joe said that Brett couldn't get his boat set up well with the slightly larger tube. I can't imagine anyone saying that. Maybe he was just being silly..... :p I spent quite a bit of time talking to the buy who made the tubes and also with Brett about how to set up his sponson spacing.

Joe:

Remember that one of the things that makes this hobby so neat is that people have different ways of getting to a result. I realize that you are VERY happy with your new twin, but there is ALWAYS a better way for almost everything. Look at what Truex and his guys accomplished really quickly!
 
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The ones that are having problem with Bob violets?? Remember DO NOT roll the top purple piece out 360 degrees & then flow the needle.... It only needs about 90 degrees of movement. Dont forget yout can turn the needle out to get the desired flow & keep the operating movement down to about 90 degrees....... This allows the top to stay engaged in the lower half & keep the needle stable. Many of the Homemade needle bases have a different approach to the hole that the fuel passes thru. this is a Super Critical area to maintain smooth fuel flow. ( the angle @ the top of the fuel thru hole is critical)
 
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