Trimming a 44" 90 Seaducer

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I guess the theory is that the line of drive force is pushing on the bottom rear of the strut rather than at a point closer to the CG . Why anyone would want to mess with all the associated set screws and bs thrust washers etc rather than a standard flex shaft i'll never know but thats a Warm Beer / Cold Beer situation !!
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Tom,

My setup isnt a standard square drive, see here:

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=5106

I made the strut, it uses needle roller bearings and a ball thrust bearing. I almost never undo the grub screws as I can grease the shaft with an tube into the stuffing tube. And when I changed from round drive to this setup I could get on pipe easier, so I could shorten the pipe. B) That's why I changed!
 
I actually run a X467 with Straight cut out of the center of the hub on the trailing edge. This helps reduce some of the lift. I have had 44`s run Loose, Tight, & Flat. I perfer to set it up like seaducer says. And would like to see it fast & flat with no bad habits. I begin to change the Prop, Pipe, Rudder. I run a speedmaster 90 rudder blade instead of the seaducer blade. I like it best. You can bulid 10 of them. But will have to tweak the things I talked about to get the best results.... I have never seen 2 alike & have built every color in the rainbow But I still prefer there Boat for Heat Racing over anyone else.... :)
 
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I actually run a X467 with Straight cut out of the center of the hub on the trailing edge. This helps reduce some of the lift. I have had 44`s run Loose, Tight, & Flat. I perfer to set it up like seaducer says. And would like to see it fast & flat with no bad habits. I begin to change the Prop, Pipe, Rudder. I run a speedmaster 90 rudder blade instead of the seaducer blade. I like it best. You can bulid 10 of then. But will have to tweak the things I talked about to get the best results.... I have never seen 2 alike & have built every color in the rainbow But I still prefer there Boat for Heat Racing over anyone else.... :)
hi joe, why does a non lift (modded) prop make a boat run loose and why do you like the speedmaster rudder better? thanks,mike.
 
I actually run a X467 with Straight cut out of the center of the hub on the trailing edge. This helps reduce some of the lift. I have had 44`s run Loose, Tight, & Flat. I perfer to set it up like seaducer says. And would like to see it fast & flat with no bad habits. I begin to change the Prop, Pipe, Rudder. I run a speedmaster 90 rudder blade instead of the seaducer blade. I like it best. You can bulid 10 of then. But will have to tweak the things I talked about to get the best results.... I have never seen 2 alike & have built every color in the rainbow But I still prefer there Boat for Heat Racing over anyone else.... :)
hi joe, why does a non lift (modded) prop make a boat run loose and why do you like the speedmaster rudder better? thanks,mike.
Mike if you unload the props by cuttng the trailing edge (barr cut) or (Straight Star Cut) You will effect lift. You will be removing surface area. The trick is to be easy unloading the engine & be able to tighten the boat up a little on the strut if you are running this paticular mod prop. As for the rudder, I prefer the taper blade over the straight balde.
 
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