Transom restoration

[RobertDoak]

Hello everyone...so I acquired a Herzog hurricane mono a while back in a trade...boat is in need of some serious love...mostly the transom...the boat didn't come with hardware but I did purchase Speedmaster hardware and nothing is lining up with the existing holes...how should I go about restoring the transom...and just to make note...the interior wood transom doubler is also all jacked up ....here is a pic of what I'm dealing with....thanks very much..

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Insert hardwood dowels, episode into each hole.
Once dry, sand flush.
Cut a piece of G10 Garolite, epoxy that in place on the outside of transom.
Do the same on the inside.

 

[RobertDoak]

Insert hardwood dowels, episode into each hole.
Once dry, sand flush.
Cut a piece of G10 Garolite, epoxy that in place on the outside of transom.
Do the same on the inside.

Ok..that sounds simple enough...and the g10...that doesn't need to be super thick does it...like 1/16" stuff?

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Ok..that sounds simple enough...and the g10...that doesn't need to be super thick does it...like 1/16" stuff?

1/16 should work fine,
You will end up with a transom that will outlast the rest of the hull.

 

[Don Ferrette]

Insert hardwood dowels, epoxy into each hole.
Once dry, sand flush.
Cut a piece of G10 Garolite, epoxy that in place on the outside of transom.
Do the same on the inside.

What Rick said.

 

[RobertDoak]

If you could see the overall condition of the hull...it looks like everyone took a ride on it already....I have to do some fiberglass work to hold the top and bottom together...and some super thin areas that can be seen through with light shown into the hull...it's almost to the point of a good vikings style send off...but I have a spare stock 26cc sitting around here...why not put it to use and practice some reworking skills....

 

[Kez]

I have just completed restoring a .40 vee. I was able to remove the transom ply doubler using a reciprocating saw. It was a lot of work but worth it. I then epoxied a new 3/16" ply with a 6 Oz cloth between the transom and the doubler. I then filled the old holes on the outside with a mixture of glass, carbosil and epoxy. If the doubler was not soaked in oil, I would have plugged the holes with birch dowels as Rick and Don suggested

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I think Kez has the right answer, if it's oil soaked, remove the wood and replace it. If it's not soaked with oil, plug with dowels and epoxy then redrill as needed. Don't know if I would personally use a recip saw unless I was going to remove the glass part of the transom but otherwise.......
I've been working on a Velasco 78 Circus hull that had a similar issue. I ended up doubling the transom on the inside, filled the holes with epoxy and silica fibers and added a 90* bracket inside to secure the rudder bracket to.

 

[RobertDoak]

I do like the thought of removing the wood interior doubler....I need to recheck the condition of it...it does seem to be delaminating and to remove it will most likely be a choir....but you all have given me some excellent direction...time to roll up the sleeves and get busy..thanks very much...I will check back in with pics

 

[Kez]

I bought a cheap HF oscillating saw (I used the wrong name in my post above by calling it a recipricating saw) and cut groves in the ply doubler. Then I insert a screw driver into the slots to break the ply off in small sections. Then I used the same oscillating saw with a carbide sanding bit to clean up the remaining wood and glue. Still need to sand manually where the tool cannot reach. I did not take pictures but I will post one of how the new transom looks.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Now that makes more sense. I have both types of saws and was trying to figure out how you could remove the wood without taking off the glass at the transom. I was thinking Dremel with a saw blade or similar method.

 

[RobertDoak]

Kez....when you mentioned saw...this popped into my head....would this type work you think..

 

[Kez]

Hi Mark and Robert, I incorrectly called the oscillating saw as a reciprocating saw in my first post. The Chicago Electric saw is exactly the saw i used. It is inexpensive. Very tough and came with a blade/bit for wood, which I used to cut into the transom ply doubler. I bought a few carbide sanding/grinding bits to take out the remnants and resin. They do not load up.

I cut a new doubler using 1/8" birch ply and sandwiched a layer of mat between the transom and the ply. It is now very strong and I filled the holes with resin and chopped glass. Then I Bondo over it. Will try to post a picture

Thanks,
k

 

[RobertDoak]

Perfect...I now have a plan..and a direction....thank very much

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Oops. Your probably done already. Just realized it was a two week old thread.

You can just tape the outside and layup a layer of glass on the inside with boat standing nose up. Most the holes will be filled flush when you remove the tape. If any below flush just add some epoxy to bring them up flush.

Regular fiberglass matt from Home Depot is fine for the job. I suggest West Systems epoxy but you could even use polyester resin.

 

[RobertDoak]

No...I haven't got the job done yet...but I like the tip...I have a coworker with one of those oscillating saws that I'm waiting on....I'm too cheap to go purchase one currently...thanks .