Thoughts on running a extended rudder bracket

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Roxyflash

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
1,592
I always had my pivot on rudder right around the prop dog.I repaired a damaged razor hull and it was setup with 6 inch bracket for rudder boat does not like to turn left.Never had any problems in the past until I tried the long bracket.I put a shorter bracket but haven’t tried it yet.
 
FROM JOHN FINCH :The turn fin and the keel of the hull dig into the water in a turn and the prop wants to drag the boat transom to the left. So, the further back the rudder the better the leverage to control all those factors. I have found that for example on a mono I used to run with no trim tabs that the closer to the transom the rudder was located the more it pushed the bow down to the water. It tripped the boat more so than when it was further back from the transom just dragging along. Most boat setups use trim tabs to accomplish the SAW attitude though and the rudder further back for controlling the boat in the turns. I am sure someone else might have other ideas, as I am just speaking from what I have found on my deep vee boats. I have found that running the rudder further back from the prop also helps control prop walk on my gas boats with the bigger props. On my old nitro mono hulls with the smaller props the rudder could be located beside the prop and worked just fine..

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Having the rudder back from the transom does give an advantage in leverage in relation to the turn fin. The further back from the turn fin the more mechanical advantage to tuning the boat since the turnfin is more or less the pivot point. I have experimented with this greatly for SAW, and it does apply to heat racing as well. I have set up an electric mono with the rudder close to the transom and the boat would not turn left at all with full left rudder. Moving the rudder back a few inches the boat turns left just fine. Leverage!

I like the rudder either beside or rearward of the prop for the same reason. I had a twin nitro mono that would not turn at all with the rudder in front of the prop and very near the distance from the transom as the turn fin. No leverage. On my gas boats the prop is further back than the turn fin and then the rudder further back than the prop and everything comes into balance with good leverage for all parts concerned. I like the strut rather than the stinger because it allows for easier and more infinate adjustment. Set the driveshaft a little right of centerline (maybe 1/4 inch or so)where it comes out of the transom and the prop lift on the right side will help counteract torque roll for a smooth chine walk free ride.
 
The rudder was back behind the prop and would not turn left shitcanned the extended bracket put the pivot next to prop dog with the shorter bracket boat turns great to the left now.I think what was happening is the prop blast was blasting the rudder blade losing the effect to turn left.I normally use a short rudder bracket but this razor was setup with a stinger and long rudder.Boat was wrecked I repaired the hull all hardware was stripped off so I bought a extended strut and long rudder trying to mimic what was on there before.I don’t like stingers I’m a strut guy to me there easier to adjust one pinch bolt.Im very happy with the new setup boat handles great now.
 
Here’s a few pictures of my boat the right rear side and top of hull was damaged the top rear was completely missing from pipe cutout to around the corner I used g10 1/16 plate two pieces to replaced what was missing had some left over paint from my truck from 2000 I used u pol white laquer spray can on transom and sides imron on top panter pink here’s a shot of hardware trim tabs are home made tfl rudder speedmaster strut was a flat bottom but I took a 45 degree cut on the sides I thought I ordered a round bottom but was sent the flat strut home made turn fin and brackets home made pipe mount used zipkitts radio box and motor mount speedmaster t bar and 16 oz Sullivan hard tank
 

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Here’s a few pictures of my boat the right rear side and top of hull was damaged the top rear was completely missing from pipe cutout to around the corner I used g10 1/16 plate two pieces to replaced what was missing had some left over paint from my truck from 2000 I used u pol white laquer spray can on transom and sides imrom on top planter pink here’s a shot of hardware trim tabs are home made tfl rudder speedmaster strut was a flat bottom but I took a 45 degree cut on the sides I thought I ordered a round bottom but was sent the flat strut home made turn fin and brackets home made pipe mount used zipkitts radio box and motor mount speedmaster t bar and 16 oz Sullivan hard tank
Good repair Job .

When you can perhaps swap out that collet steering arm connecter on rudder for a more solid ball joint connector.
 
Im going to try running a shorter rudder bracket on my wavefigther (it should be the same hull shape as your razor) just to test if it also improves turning on that hull
 
Ran the boat in real choppy conditions got this boat running great with the shorter stand off turns great both left and right.Im using a 2714/2 15 prop with a self modded 260 with full circle crank.Even with the chop and wind was running great with no bad habits Im real happy how well its runs.
 

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