Stealth sport hydros

[P THOMAS]

Phil,

What radio brand are you using? Futaba requires the throttle to be reversed. Sounds like Jack is the right guy to help.

Later,

Mike

Let's see some pictures when you get a chance.

3pmx 2.4 radio

 

[user 6667]

Phil, Are you using lipos or 6 or 7 cell nimh? With low volatge cutoff built in 6 cell nimh packs won't work well.

jacko'

 

[longballlumber]

Well I just checked it out agian and set throttle trim to 0 and rev the channel. I got the correct beeps and it started up ok.

I slow charged one set of batteries overnite too, figuring it maybe low battery voltage, but it works ok on two pairs of nimh batteries I have.

You guys sure this isnt just a waste of electricity. HA

Hmmmmmm…. Sounds like something isn’t right…

Let’s try this (I just checked mine)

1. Turn on TX (set it down and don’t touch anything)
   
2. Plug batteries into the speed controller
   
3. YOU SOULD ONLY HEAR ONE BEEP (then silence)
   

At this point if you’re getting consecutive beeps simply after plugging into the controller and doing nothing else you need to adjust your throttle trim. It is possible to arm your controller in this condition, but it isn’t right! You should only hear ONE beep at plug in and that’s it.

Assuming you are only getting one beep; you would move forward with the next steps

1. Move trigger to full throttle = one beep
   
2. Let trigger move back to center/neutral and you should get a series of beeps
   
3. YOU’RE DONE. I should be armed now.
   

 

[longballlumber]

Phil, Are you using lipos or 6 or 7 cell nimh? With low volatge cutoff built in 6 cell nimh packs won't work well.

jacko'

Hi Jack,

Isn't the LVC "calculated" in the AquaCraft controllers once a battery pack has been plugged in? Regardless of the LVC, the controller should still arm? Right?

Later,

Mike

 

[Grimracer]

Mike.. no its not.

The issue with that is.. IF.. one was to plug in a less then fully charged LIPO.. the cut off voltage would be less than the safe limit of the cells voltage.

The stutter bump and LVCs are hard voltage values.

Grim

 

[P THOMAS]

What I did was I had plugged it in ok and set the esc with the throttle trim at 0 then i raised the # till the motor started and backed it off to make it stop, probaly about a 27.

Then next time tx was turned on and batteries plugged up it was off too much on the throttle trim to set properly, just sit there constantly beeping.

I reset the trim to 0 and checked if the rev was on and it started up normally.

 

[user 6667]

Phil, sorry I did not get back to you today. I had to have an unexpected visit to the dentist to get a tooth pulled. If you are still having issues I can call you Thursday.

Jacko'

 

[P THOMAS]

Phil, sorry I did not get back to you today. I had to have an unexpected visit to the dentist to get a tooth pulled. If you are still having issues I can call you Thursday.

Jacko'

I am fine, sorry about the pain.. Maybe put that tooth under your pillow and you may find a new CMB for that scale hydro. Hint hint,, wifetoothfairy

 

[P THOMAS]

Have to get a new cowl made, nitro one had air vents cut in it.

Stock UL1 motor and esc 4600 nimh batteries. Will get some lipo power for the spring running.

Nimh batteries fit ok in front of the motor, esc and rec on top, used a rubber band over the top to hold everything down. I used a traxxas waterproof servo for the rudder. I just ca glued some 1/8th ply in the engine well sides to screw the servo down.

I set up the mount to line up with the nitro flex cable tube ok. Cut some slots in the floor and then I cut out the floor under the motor for clearance.The boat balanced about 16 inches with the nimh batteries and a few oz lead in the sponson tips.

here are some more pic

http://gallery.intlw...bum=1107&page=2

 

[lohring]

Phil, you're having beginning electric racer blues. All the different speed control arming and adjusting methods still drive me nuts. The different batteries, connectors, and motors are confusing and the advertizing hype doesn't help. Fortunately, I had one of the best electric racers in the country, Brian Buaas, as an adviser. Though we are running the UL-1 and P spec riggers, what we learned should still apply.

The UL-1s all run Grim Racer 42 x 55 props with various modifications. That should be a good sport hydro prop. The riggers started there and moved to ABC H-6, then H-10 and finally S-15 props, all modified to some degree.

As you prop up for more speed, you draw more current and you start to see the limitations of the stock UL-1 components. First the solder melts on the connectors. We moved to 5.5 mm bullets. Second the UL-1 ESC starts getting hot. We moved to the Turnigy 120 Marine ESC or the Castle ICE 100 Lite with water cooling added. The Castle has data logging that really helps with prop selection. I like Castle's USB link for adjusting the ESC as well.

Finally, we reached the current limits of the UL-1 motor. Refreshingly, the advertized current of 80 amps is conservative. You can run 100 amps average with spikes to 130+ amps all year. You can get by with the less expensive Turnigy or Gens Ace batteries at that current. However, they have a higher internal resistance and the better batteries like the Hyperion or Grim Racer packs will be faster. I'd start with the low cost batteries until your competition forces you to upgrade.

Thanks for making your great hulls available to the FE community. We need them. Soon there will be Q spec systems for sport 40 hulls. It's starting to be a new world in model boating, if us old guys can keep up.

Lohring Miller

 

[user 6667]

Ok sounds good that you have it figured out. Never know about that tooth fairy..... Ha...

Jacko'

 

[D. Newland]

...Finally, we reached the current limits of the UL-1 motor. Refreshingly, the advertized current of 80 amps is conservative. You can run 100 amps average with spikes to 130+ amps all year. ...Lohring Miller

No, they won't. That is way too aggressive of an amp goal for these motors for consistent and trouble free sprint racing and to be posting this on a public forum for a new-to-FE racer, with many other new-to-FE racers lurking isn't a very good idea, IMO.

Stick with a 75 amp average and the motors will last. Go much higher than this for heat racing and you'll be looking for trouble...or a new motor.

These motors are easy to read. If you are melting connections, if the wire shrink starts to melt or if the motor is much over 125 degrees after a run, you're pushing it too hard. Save your equipment by learning how to read your motor after a run. You don't need data-logging equipment to figure it out. Initial test runs need to be short. Add time to your runs when temps are good.

 

[P THOMAS]

HA Thanks, I wont be stressing stuff too soon. have to get some runs on this boat first

 

[Doug Smock]

...Finally, we reached the current limits of the UL-1 motor. Refreshingly, the advertized current of 80 amps is conservative. You can run 100 amps average with spikes to 130+ amps all year. ...Lohring Miller

No, they won't. That is way too aggressive of an amp goal for these motors for consistent and trouble free sprint racing and to be posting this on a public forum for a new-to-FE racer, with many other new-to-FE racers lurking isn't a very good idea, IMO.

Stick with a 75 amp average and the motors will last. Go much higher than this for heat racing and you'll be looking for trouble...or a new motor.

These motors are easy to read. If you are melting connections, if the wire shrink starts to melt or if the motor is much over 125 degrees after a run, you're pushing it too hard. Save your equipment by learning how to read your motor after a run. You don't need data-logging equipment to figure it out. Initial test runs need to be short. Add time to your runs when temps are good.

Well said Mr. Newland.

Lohring, the advertised current is 50 amps., 80 amps burst (5 sec).

Good luck with her Phil!

Doug

 

[hugh hargett]

...Finally, we reached the current limits of the UL-1 motor. Refreshingly, the advertized current of 80 amps is conservative. You can run 100 amps average with spikes to 130+ amps all year. ...Lohring Miller

No, they won't. That is way too aggressive of an amp goal for these motors for consistent and trouble free sprint racing and to be posting this on a public forum for a new-to-FE racer, with many other new-to-FE racers lurking isn't a very good idea, IMO.

Stick with a 75 amp average and the motors will last. Go much higher than this for heat racing and you'll be looking for trouble...or a new motor.

These motors are easy to read. If you are melting connections, if the wire shrink starts to melt or if the motor is much over 125 degrees after a run, you're pushing it too hard. Save your equipment by learning how to read your motor after a run. You don't need data-logging equipment to figure it out. Initial test runs need to be short. Add time to your runs when temps are good.

I do know from another racer that brian is using real time data of the castle ice speed control to select props. Yes one can estimate through touch if a motors too hot but data logging takes alot of the guesswork out. Not disputing the amp max of the ul-1 . Just saying that if lohring and brian are using data logging equipment to back their claims thats a pretty strong case. I also agree that a newbie shouldnt go out and try to run on the edge. I still havent brung myself to the conclusion that Phil is a newbie, just because he hasnt run an electric before. Id watch out for this so called "newbie" as Hes likely to blow some "expert" doors off.I estimate over 40 years boating experience there. How long is it exactly PHIL? I cant wait to get your ss45 in my hands.

DNewland is that 125 degrees C or F?

 

[D. Newland]

Hugh-125F. Warm enough to keep your finger on the enbell without the need to pull it away.

The reason why I felt the need to post this is that data-logging equipment, while good, adds complexity. That's something a new-to-FE racer doesn't need, IMO. FE is complicated and intimidating enough. I'll take my stopwatch and known mAh draw for a run, plus what I posted above about heat over data-logging equipment every time.

Lastly, I feel that those with P-Ltd FE knowledge should help others by offering setup advice that focuses on stability, reliability, then speed. Especially when posting on public forums.

 

[SeanKewley]

Hugh-125F. Warm enough to keep your finger on the enbell without the need to pull it away.

The reason why I felt the need to post this is that data-logging equipment, while good, adds complexity. That's something a new-to-FE racer doesn't need, IMO. FE is complicated and intimidating enough. I'll take my stopwatch and known mAh draw for a run, plus what I posted above about heat over data-logging equipment every time.

Lastly, I feel that those with P-Ltd FE knowledge should help others by offering setup advice that focuses on stability, reliability, then speed. Especially when posting on public forums.

Well said Mr. Newland.

 

[raptor347]

Lastly, I feel that those with P-Ltd FE knowledge should help others by offering setup advice that focuses on stability, reliability, then speed. Especially when posting on public forums.

Which is why I'll never again post my P-Ltd setups on a forum again. I've been told I'm a bad person one too many times.

BTW. My new Stealth hulls should be here tomorrow! Can't wait. I wonder what the hull limit really is?

 

[D. Newland]

Not bad...just hard to keep up with!

 

[hugh hargett]

Hugh-125F. Warm enough to keep your finger on the enbell without the need to pull it away.

The reason why I felt the need to post this is that data-logging equipment, while good, adds complexity. That's something a new-to-FE racer doesn't need, IMO. FE is complicated and intimidating enough. I'll take my stopwatch and known mAh draw for a run, plus what I posted above about heat over data-logging equipment every time.

Lastly, I feel that those with P-Ltd FE knowledge should help others by offering setup advice that focuses on stability, reliability, then speed. Especially when posting on public forums.

Point well taken. I was just confirming that Brian and Lohring are likely giving real word data- not just spitting out what they think.Im old school too but I wouldnt take my finger and a stopwatch over real time datalogging. I do agree that all that might be a bit much for a newcomer though.Im not sold on these limited classes coz they look like they favor certain manufacturers. That doesnt seen too fair.

Raptor you can post your findings as long as you got video or real data Id never dispute it brother. You cant really tell tone from messages. Im sure no one was calling you a bad person, but instead disputing your claims based on whatever their real world experiences were. Such a thing might differ from one person to the next even with "SEEMINGLY" the same setup. Id never say you were wrong if you are speaking from you own experience not just making a general claim that would apply to everyone. If you say " from my experience........ blah blah blah. I think that would be legitimate and less disputable.

Even though the forum is public just because someone else says "they did something" doesnt mean you or I should go out and try it. For me I wouldnt recommend a plimited setup to a newb at all coz its obviously unforgiving; if you dont know anything about the right prop set up so forth and so on. I dont care for "LIMITS" anyway.