Soldering 6mm to 10 gauge battery wire

[007clint]

How do you solder 6mm connectors to 10 gauge battery wire without having the stranded wire suck up too much solder and become too stiff?

 

[Bill-SOCAL]

How do you solder 6mm connectors to 10 gauge battery wire without having the stranded wire suck up too much solder and become too stiff?

Tin the ends of the wire first, then melt solder into the end of the plug. Stick the wire in, heat until the wire is fully seated in the plug and let it cool.

 

[BulletMaster]

the secret is to use a large enough soldering iron (80W+) that lets you get the heat quickly to the joint. That way the heat is limited to a smaller area, stopping the solder wicking back.

 

[007clint]

the secret is to use a large enough soldering iron (80W+) that lets you get the heat quickly to the joint. That way the heat is limited to a smaller area, stopping the solder wicking back.

Would a Weller 200 watt soldering gun work?

 

[BulletMaster]

pretty sure that it isn't the most suitable for the task. You need the mass of the copper tip to retain the heat for quick thermal transfer. Better off with something like this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-Sp80L-Solde...V/dp/B0009VX23C

 

[007clint]

pretty sure that it isn't the most suitable for the task. You need the mass of the copper tip to retain the heat for quick thermal transfer. Better off with something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-Sp80L-Solde...V/dp/B0009VX23C

How about a Solder-it Butane Micro-Jet? It has a LOT of heat for thermal transfer!

Does anyone use some sort of heat-sink on the wire insulation?

 

[BulletMaster]

careful with the torch.. you can affect the silicone insulation.

I still think you will have the best success with a proper soldering iron.

HeatShrink is used to over both insulation and connector.

 

[Ub Hauled]

How about a Solder-it Butane Micro-Jet? It has a LOT of heat for thermal transfer!
Does anyone use some sort of heat-sink on the wire insulation?

I agree, stay away from torches, I used it a few times but only due to a crappy iron and necessity to

remove the plugs... it will burn the silicone.

The problem is that the torch will take a looooong time to melt the solder...

 

[drwayne]

How about a Solder-it Butane Micro-Jet? It has a LOT of heat for thermal transfer!
Does anyone use some sort of heat-sink on the wire insulation?

I agree, stay away from torches, I used it a few times but only due to a crappy iron and necessity to

remove the plugs... it will burn the silicone.

The problem is that the torch will take a looooong time to melt the solder...

Milspec 2002

ROHS requires lead free solder.

I use 4% silver solder for better conductivity.

Nothing beats a decent solder iron tip for heat transfer.

Hold the wire with a pair of pliers close to the end to be soldered ( within 1/4 of extra exposed wire)

Wick the end with solder so it has absorbed and is covered.

Heat and fill the plug end with solder... allow the walls of the plug to melt the solder, not the solder iron itself.

Whilst still heating the plug and solder is molten, insert the wire ( still held by pliers)

Heat both together until the wire end visibly combines into the solder melt.

Remove heat and hold wire in place until the solder cools, sets, and has a shiny film appearance.

Do not move during cooling/curing as this will introduce flaws to the joint.

The pliers act as a heat sink to the wire and prevents solder wicking up from the solder point into the wire beyond the exposed 1/4 which can cause long sections of no pliability and a brittleness unwanted in this applet.

Good quality ( thick) heat shrink should be a mandatory addition to your kit of tools.

Color coordination of mated plugs is logical.

Dont rush the heatshrink, slow shrinkage gives much better symmetry of protection.

cheers

Wayne

 

[Ub Hauled]

If you use silver solder, make sure to have a good iron,

silver solder is a heat hog... :lol:

 

[drwayne]

If you use silver solder, make sure to have a good iron,silver solder is a heat hog... :lol:

Correctly Bulletmaster ( Tony) chose the 80+W iron for jobs of this size.

Good tools are 90% of every solution.

Silver solder has higher melting point true, with lower conductivity, less brittle under duress, and better resilience to mechanical fatigue... a wise move from all angles..

"heat hog :lol: ' , perhaps .. but benefits outweigh issues over the 30F heat increase to working temps .

 

[007clint]

What I ended up doing was modifying my 60W RadioShack Digital Soldering Station (already had it) by adding a LARGE brass soldering tip to allow quick heat transfer. The station lets you set the temperature of the tip from 320 to 680 degrees and easily maintains the temperature during the soldering of the large wire soldering (it shows actual temp along with set temp and power to maintain temp). I used a 5/16 inch brass rod that is about 1 1/4 inch long. I see no reason that I could not increase this to 3/8 to 7/17 inch brass.

See attached pictures