Seaducer Question

[Rokieboater]

I have a .67 Seaducer set up per instructions. All Seaducer hardware with offset Strut. Rudder depth and placement per instructions. Boat runs strong and turns nice. However I need to hold a lot of left rudder in the straights to make it track straight. Is this normal? Any ideas of what to do to correct this?

Robert Holland

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

At wide open throttle, no, you shouldn't have to hold left rudder to go straight, something is outa whack.

I do find that I have to counter steer left at slow speeds, IE: during the mill, but once on pipe, mine tracks fine

Rick

 

[153stars]

Is your blade sharpened from at least 1/4of the way in.Had my twin craft 90 turning in a bunch, until I really worked the prather prop. Not super thin just blended in good.

 

[ALLAN YUEN]

I had problem with SD3 67/80 mono before same problem track right I just learned from Jerry C one key Bow transom center so the seaducer strut( bend left side bottom) move about 1/8" right will be work straight If you use speedmaster strut so big trouble Good Luck!

 

[Joe Warren]

I have a .67 Seaducer set up per instructions. All Seaducer hardware with offset Strut. Rudder depth and placement per instructions. Boat runs strong and turns nice. However I need to hold a lot of left rudder in the straights to make it track straight. Is this normal? Any ideas of what to do to correct this?

Robert Holland

BAD servo? Weak battery? Turn fin too long or not mounted correctly the Drive line & transom hardware is Not off-set correctly? Bent rudder blade? Very Dull Prop. P.S. Hold the Rudder blade with your fingers & see if there is deflection on the turn servo rudder rod???? the hardest job the servo Must Do........ Hold the boat straight in the straightaways.

 

[mark voorhies]

I have a .67 Seaducer set up per instructions. All Seaducer hardware with offset Strut. Rudder depth and placement per instructions. Boat runs strong and turns nice. However I need to hold a lot of left rudder in the straights to make it track straight. Is this normal? Any ideas of what to do to correct this?

Robert Holland

First and formost, it's not normal, Joe W. has given most cause's. The steering servo on a 67 to 101 Mono has to be

stout, no less than 200in.oz., and no give or flex in the linkage from servo to rudder. check that first?

 

[Rokieboater]

I have a .67 Seaducer set up per instructions. All Seaducer hardware with offset Strut. Rudder depth and placement per instructions. Boat runs strong and turns nice. However I need to hold a lot of left rudder in the straights to make it track straight. Is this normal? Any ideas of what to do to correct this?

Robert Holland

BAD servo? Weak battery? Turn fin too long or not mounted correctly the Drive line & transom hardware is Not off-set correctly? Bent rudder blade? Very Dull Prop. P.S. Hold the Rudder blade with your fingers & see if there is deflection on the turn servo rudder rod???? the hardest job the servo Must Do........ Hold the boat straight in the straightaways.

The only thing I havent checked is if the strut is exactly in the correct location. Just re-read the direction and the strut brackets should not be centered. Is that a correct interpretation? They should actually be offset???

If that is correct my drive shaft is off by 1/8 to 3/16. That sucks!!!!!. Time to get out the dremel. Can someone confirm what I am saying here.

Thanks for the replies.

Robert

 

[mark voorhies]

I have a .67 Seaducer set up per instructions. All Seaducer hardware with offset Strut. Rudder depth and placement per instructions. Boat runs strong and turns nice. However I need to hold a lot of left rudder in the straights to make it track straight. Is this normal? Any ideas of what to do to correct this?

Robert Holland

BAD servo? Weak battery? Turn fin too long or not mounted correctly the Drive line & transom hardware is Not off-set correctly? Bent rudder blade? Very Dull Prop. P.S. Hold the Rudder blade with your fingers & see if there is deflection on the turn servo rudder rod???? the hardest job the servo Must Do........ Hold the boat straight in the straightaways.

The only thing I havent checked is if the strut is exactly in the correct location. Just re-read the direction and the strut brackets should not be centered. Is that a correct interpretation? They should actually be offset???

If that is correct my drive shaft is off by 1/8 to 3/16. That sucks!!!!!. Time to get out the dremel. Can someone confirm what I am saying here.

Thanks for the replies.

Robert

Seaducer strut comes with offset angle machined into the strut, so you mount it on centerlnes on the transome. I've trimmed my steering ,maybe 10%, but no more for straight tracking down front and back

straights.

 

[Sean Bowf]

I had a similar problem with my .45 speedmaster mono. The fix was, a stronger rudder servo. In short, the rudder servo was not strong enough to overcome the torque stear. I put a servo in that had about twice the torque, and it now works fine.

Sean

 

[Joe Warren]

I have a .67 Seaducer set up per instructions. All Seaducer hardware with offset Strut. Rudder depth and placement per instructions. Boat runs strong and turns nice. However I need to hold a lot of left rudder in the straights to make it track straight. Is this normal? Any ideas of what to do to correct this?

Robert Holland

BAD servo? Weak battery? Turn fin too long or not mounted correctly the Drive line & transom hardware is Not off-set correctly? Bent rudder blade? Very Dull Prop. P.S. Hold the Rudder blade with your fingers & see if there is deflection on the turn servo rudder rod???? the hardest job the servo Must Do........ Hold the boat straight in the straightaways.

The only thing I havent checked is if the strut is exactly in the correct location. Just re-read the direction and the strut brackets should not be centered. Is that a correct interpretation? They should actually be offset???

If that is correct my drive shaft is off by 1/8 to 3/16. That sucks!!!!!. Time to get out the dremel. Can someone confirm what I am saying here.

Thanks for the replies.

Robert

Robert look @ the final location of the strut from the rear of the boat. THE Hole you put the bushing into must be in the center of the boat. Now the front of that same strut blade will be off set to the starboard (right) side of the hull. To get this final location You have to locate the strut brackets to the right side of the transom before you drill the transom. You can visit Seaducerboats.com & view the inst sheets on that hull to get a better picture of this. The off set I speak of is the diatance from the center of the strut to the center of the rudder. I normally locate my rudder blade in line with the right stringer in the hull. But you can view seaducer set up spec`s on their web site if you have questions?

 

[BigChuck]

I did not see were you mentioned a motor, prop & pipe combo. It could be a simple matter of to much prop.

 

[Jerry_Crowther]

what servo do you have in the boat? Is it solid in the radio box?

Jerry

 

[Rokieboater]

Mark and Joe, You guys are giving me conflicting info.

I think Joe is correct now that I have re-read the directions. The strut brackets is NOT suppose to be mounted centerline but offset to the starboard so the end of the offset strut is centerline. Jerry, is that a correct statement?

As far as the servo is concerned... What difference does the strength make when the boat tracks right when the rudder is straight? The servo is stronger enough to hold left the entire straight and make it turn right. Am I missing something here?

Not trying to be a smart ass on that question just trying to get info.

It is mounted hard and tight and it is the Hi-Tec 645mg

The prop is a X-457 two blade Sharpened and Balanced. I know some of you swing much bigger blades but I race where the starting altitude is 5200 ft. I go up in prop when I go down in altitude.

Robert Holland

 

[153stars]

Mark and Joe, You guys are giving me conflicting info.

I think Joe is correct now that I have re-read the directions. The strut brackets is NOT suppose to be mounted centerline but offset to the starboard so the end of the offset strut is centerline. Jerry, is that a correct statement?

As far as the servo is concerned... What difference does the strength make when the boat tracks right when the rudder is straight? The servo is stronger enough to hold left the entire straight and make it turn right. Am I missing something here?

Not trying to be a smart ass on that question just trying to get info.

It is mounted hard and tight and it is the Hi-Tec 645mg

The prop is a X-457 two blade Sharpened and Balanced. I know some of you swing much bigger blades but I race where the starting altitude is 5200 ft. I go up in prop when I go down in altitude.

Robert Holland

 

[153stars]

Turning seducers you need very little rudder throw. So if you move in on your servo horn you'll get more power to rudder.If you move out on the rudder horn you'll get more power.Less throw each time and less twitchy also. It will easier to drive to a point .Using more wheel not taking it out with the radio or driving by barely moving your wheel. You need some emergency turning as well or to get the nose around against the wind.Driving styles very.The hardest thing for a servo to do is the center position against prop walk and straighten back after turn thats where you will see weak batts or servo power.

Not saying this is your prob but try to get as much power as you can out of that servo and better driveablity as well. I have my own seducer challenges to over come as well my 21 sd2 flies real high on the water super fast and fun to drive by yourself.Tried everything except more than 2oz weight. Have sd3 now as well but that thing's a blast to play with so a mac 21 will stay in it.

 

[BigChuck]

The servo is stronger enough to hold left the entire straight and make it turn right.

You have JUST ANSWERED your own PROBLEM. Your servo is NOT strong enough. From what you said. You will need to change it out. It may be over kill but 1/4 scale servo only for 60 and up for me.

 

[Rokieboater]

The servo is stronger enough to hold left the entire straight and make it turn right.

You have JUST ANSWERED your own PROBLEM. Your servo is NOT strong enough. From what you said. You will need to change it out. It may be over kill but 1/4 scale servo only for 60 and up for me.

So what your saying is my servo makes the boat go to the right. I have a hard time following that rule of thought. If the boat tracks right with my rudder neutral... I corrected it from tracking right by putting a whole bunch of left trim into it. It goes straight down the straight a way with left rudder trimmed into it. How then does a weak rudder servo keep it straight or allow it to track right.

Wouldn't a weak servo stop me from holding left in it to keep it straight? How does a weak servo make the boat track right?

I have raced the boat for a year now with left trimmed into the rudder. Won the district high points with the same servo and batteries all year. Was leading the NAMBA

Nats after 3 rounds and would have won it if not for the stick I hit in the last round. This is not a new boat. I am just tired of it tracking right with a straight rudder. The real problem occurs when I slow down it wants to go left with all the left trim in it.

I appreciate all the in put but I still don't understand how a weak servo makes the boat track right. I am a simple minded individual so I need great explanation on a weak servo making a boat go right. Now if your telling me that a weak servo wont hold against prop walk/torque I could understand that. But there again what is MAKING the boat track right/go to the right? Is it prop walk or bad set up?

Robert Holland

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

From what I have been told, don't remember who it was, but it takes MORE power to hold a servo/rudder centered, than it does to move the servo right or left.

Try this, turn radio on move rudder a few times left to right, now with servo centered take ahold of your rudder and see if there is any, I MEAN any movement left or right. If there is, I would change the servo to the recommended 1/4 scale that is stated in the build sheet.

This will also tell you if you have slop in your linkage

If at first it doesn't move, do the same drill after you have run the boat on the water for a simulated race length, get it back to the table quickly to do the test.

What were shooting for here, is to see if the amplifier is heating up & loosing strength/power

Good luck with it

 

[Rokieboater]

From what I have been told, don't remember who it was, but it takes MORE power to hold a servo/rudder centered, than it does to move the servo right or left.

Try this, turn radio on move rudder a few times left to right, now with servo centered take ahold of your rudder and see if there is any, I MEAN any movement left or right. If there is, I would change the servo to the recommended 1/4 scale that is stated in the build sheet.

This will also tell you if you have slop in your linkage

If at first it doesn't move, do the same drill after you have run the boat on the water for a simulated race length, get it back to the table quickly to do the test.

What were shooting for here, is to see if the amplifier is heating up & loosing strength/power

Good luck with it

Thanks for that explanation. tried that as you stated. Rudder does not move from center and after running the boat the rudder is juat as stron in the center point. When the radio is turned on I can move the servo at all. Pre-run or after run. That is interesting that a servo takes more power/strength to stay center...... I never heard that before.

Lets take the servo out of the equation for awhile. Say I locked the rudder in place threw the boat in the water, hit the throttle and it tracked severly right. What would cause this?

Robert

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

From what I have been told, don't remember who it was, but it takes MORE power to hold a servo/rudder centered, than it does to move the servo right or left.

Try this, turn radio on move rudder a few times left to right, now with servo centered take ahold of your rudder and see if there is any, I MEAN any movement left or right. If there is, I would change the servo to the recommended 1/4 scale that is stated in the build sheet.

This will also tell you if you have slop in your linkage

If at first it doesn't move, do the same drill after you have run the boat on the water for a simulated race length, get it back to the table quickly to do the test.

What were shooting for here, is to see if the amplifier is heating up & loosing strength/power

Good luck with it

Thanks for that explanation. tried that as you stated. Rudder does not move from center and after running the boat the rudder is juat as stron in the center point. When the radio is turned on I can move the servo at all. Pre-run or after run. That is interesting that a servo takes more power/strength to stay center...... I never heard that before.

Lets take the servo out of the equation for awhile. Say I locked the rudder in place threw the boat in the water, hit the throttle and it tracked severly right. What would cause this?

Robert

??????????????????????????????????????????????????........Got me

Is you prop thinned & sharpened properly?

I don't remember anyone asking about the turn fin, is it square & true to the bottom of the boat?

How bout the rudder, is it a Seaducer rudder blade? I know mine is extremely thin, and narrow.