Run in stand/dyno build.

[Mike Bontoft]

I did find a video of one of our Zenoah engine dyno runs. Too large to upload though. Will see what I can do to correct that. I did time the run and from 8K TO 19K it was 11.7 seconds. That was with a 19lb wheel I seem to remember. Here's a screen shot of the graph.

 

[Terry Keeley]

I did find a video of one of our Zenoah engine dyno runs. Too large to upload though. Will see what I can do to correct that. I did time the run and from 8K TO 19K it was 11.7 seconds. That was with a 19lb wheel I seem to remember. Here's a screen shot of the graph.

Upload it to Youtube!

That last pull was 13,400 to 23,600 rpm so 10,400 in 23.78 sec which is 429 rpm/sec. That'll increase as I make more power and/or slide a 90 motor in there.

Right where I want to be.

 

[Terry Keeley]

 

[Wasted wages]

Well,, thar's 'yer problem !!

 

[dave roach]

Terry
To much weight on that bearing. You mite go with two bearing to carrier the weight.

 

[Terry Keeley]

Almost shook last pass so adding a gram to the primary.

 

[Steve White]

I'm anxious to see how things go when you wind it up again. I would venture to guess you are as well.

 

[Mike Bontoft]

Just for reference and maybe to get the creative juices flowing here is a one way bearing off a Honda 750 motorcycle electric start. It never gets disengaged so is in overdrive mode whenever the engine is running. From the design it looks like (maybe) it could throw the rollers out of contact above a certain speed. Nice simple design!

 

[Terry Keeley]

Just for reference and maybe to get the creative juices flowing here is a one way bearing off a Honda 750 motorcycle electric start. It never gets disengaged so is in overdrive mode whenever the engine is running. From the design it looks like (maybe) it could throw the rollers out of contact above a certain speed. Nice simple design!

That looks the same as a one-way needle bearing and might be better for the dyno.

Had a consultation with my Consigliere, lol. Gonna try another one-way ball bearing using loctite 263 on the motor collet plus a set screw to jam against the end of the crank.

If that doesn't work I might try a one-way needle bearing but I'm having a hard time finding one with a 15mm bore, might havta sleeve the shaft or something.

If that doesn't work I'll make a ratchet as Charles suggested:



I'm also mounting a 1 1/4 hp Makita router motor to pre spin the wheel.

I'll get it!

 

[Charles Perdue]

That looks the same as a one-way needle bearing and might be better for the dyno.

Had a consultation with my Consigliere, lol. Gonna try another one-way ball bearing using loctite 263 on the motor collet plus a set screw to jam against the end of the crank.

If that doesn't work I might try a one-way needle bearing but I'm having a hard time finding one with a 15mm bore, might havta sleeve the shaft or something.

If that doesn't work I'll make a ratchet as Charles suggested:



I'm also mounting a 1 1/4 hp Makita router motor to pre spin the wheel.

I'll get it!

When I made the ratchet type one way clutch, and after running it, I ended making the teeth with a slight undercut....maybe 5 to 10 degrees......and never had another clutch problem.
The higher the load...the tighter it gripped.

Charles

 

[Terry Keeley]

When I made the ratchet type one way clutch, and after running it, I ended making the teeth with a slight undercut....maybe 5 to 10 degrees......and never had another clutch problem.
The higher the load...the tighter it gripped.

Charles

Remember what you made it out of? We were thinking it might havta be heat treated...

 

[Charles Perdue]

The first one was just made from some steel out of the scrap box, no heat treat. It held up good. Never had enough wear to affect it and keep it from working.
Each side had eight teeth with a flat top and they interlocked with each other.
A case hardening would be OK.


Charles

 

[Terry Keeley]

The first one was just made from some steel out of the scrap box, no heat treat. It held up good. Never had enough wear to affect it and keep it from working.
Each side had eight teeth with a flat top and they interlocked with each other.
A case hardening would be OK.


Charles

Great, thanks. My Consigliere figured it could be done with a dovetail cutter and rotary table on the mill, I can see that. If it comes to it I think I'll use S7 again and heat treat it, good tough material.

How did you do the sliding part? I mean it has to slide freely but still be keyed to the shaft somehow?

 

[Charles Perdue]

Great, thanks. My Consigliere figured it could be done with a dovetail cutter and rotary table on the mill, I can see that. If it comes to it I think I'll use S7 again and heat treat it, good tough material.

How did you do the sliding part? I mean it has to slide freely but still be keyed to the shaft somehow?

S7 material will work just do not harden too much as to make it brittle.

I installed two square keys in the side of the shaft about one inch long 180 degrees apart and cut the inside of the spring side of the ratchet with the corresponding keyways to match. The two parts must slide easily past each other for the clutch to work without binding. This was plenty strong to work without any problems.

Your friend is a good machinist.......

 

[Terry Keeley]

Thanks much, so no big issues with binding I take it.

Rudy, my Consigliere? He's the best!

A dirty picture for you Ray.

 

[Ray Sametz]

OMG

 

[Wasted wages]

Just pull a 34 element sprag out of a Chevy Turbo 400 transmission.....
good for over 3500 hp...bulletproof !!

 

[Terry Keeley]

I rigged a small Makita router motor to spin up the wheel, works pretty good. Humpty Dumpty's back together again.

 

[LohringMiller]

How do you disconnect the router? If you don't, it becomes part of the inertia wheel and adds unmeasured inertia and friction.

Lohring Miller

 

[Steve White]

^^^ I was wondering that too. Looks like the mount is hinged at the bottom - may just swing up and latch or flip the belt off.