Remote Needle Valves

[moparbarn]

after reading a thread by marty davis, i am starting to see that there is different approaches to this matter. seems that some remove the original needle and use a true remote/third channel needle. some leave the original needle in, but rich and use the remote as a mixture "fine tuning" device. and a third group use a needle in the original position as a third channel mixture control. whew, i hope that's right. what are the good and bad of each setup? is it motor specific, boat related, or just personal preferance? i can understand how the 2 needle approach could be an issue, but using care and experience could overcome that. still wondering about spray pattern and feed with no needle in the carb. to me, a third channel mixture on the carb needle would be best? the carb functions as designed, and there is less plumbing. you still adj. mixture on the run-isn't that what all the systems are supposed to do? please help me understand and make a decision. once again, i'm talking about .21 tunnels and k&b ob's. but any info is great.

 

[piper_chuck]

Don't know exactly which outboards you're running, but one thing to keep in mind is that the Sport 21 outboard rules require that the original needle stay in place.

 

[jetpack]

I am totally confused. Everyone seems to be calling the remote mixture control a needle. There is only one needle and one mixture control in the topic. I dont think anyone is using two needles.

A remote needle would be simply a needle with a servo arm on it. A mixture control would be the barrel or ball type valve before the main needle.

There's been too many blank statements and off topic discussion to make heads or tails out of the original question. Can anyone clear this up?

 

[piper_chuck]

I am totally confused. Everyone seems to be calling the remote mixture control a needle. There is only one needle and one mixture control in the topic. I dont think anyone is using two needles.
A remote needle would be simply a needle with a servo arm on it. A mixture control would be the barrel or ball type valve before the main needle.

There's been too many blank statements and off topic discussion to make heads or tails out of the original question. Can anyone clear this up?

Remote needle, mixture control valve, or whatever. The discussion is about being able to control the mixture via the transmitter.

 

[Don Ferrette]

I am totally confused. Everyone seems to be calling the remote mixture control a needle. There is only one needle and one mixture control in the topic. I dont think anyone is using two needles.
A remote needle would be simply a needle with a servo arm on it. A mixture control would be the barrel or ball type valve before the main needle.

There's been too many blank statements and off topic discussion to make heads or tails out of the original question. Can anyone clear this up?

The remote needle or 3rd channel needle becomes your main needle. You can have a remotely mounted needle that is not servo controlled but just manually adjusted. There is only one main needle and it is either the original carb mounted needle, a remotely mounted manual needle or a 3rd channel controlled needle that can either be remotely mounted or in some cases (like on an OS9B) directly on the carb. If you choose to run a remotely mounted needle you remove & cap off the original main needle on the carb. Regardless of which one you choose for your main needle it's function is fuel mixture control. B)

 

[Pete Markese]

I am totally confused. Everyone seems to be calling the remote mixture control a needle. There is only one needle and one mixture control in the topic. I dont think anyone is using two needles.
A remote needle would be simply a needle with a servo arm on it. A mixture control would be the barrel or ball type valve before the main needle.

There's been too many blank statements and off topic discussion to make heads or tails out of the original question. Can anyone clear this up?

The remote needle or 3rd channel needle becomes your main needle. You can have a remotely mounted needle that is not servo controlled but just manually adjusted. There is only one main needle and it is either the original carb mounted needle, a remotely mounted manual needle or a 3rd channel controlled needle that can either be remotely mounted or in some cases (like on an OS9B) directly on the carb. If you choose to run a remotely mounted needle you remove & cap off the original main needle on the carb. Regardless of which one you choose for your main needle it's function is fuel mixture control. B)

Don, I started this thread, and I'm not embarrassed to share that it's quickly gotten over my comprehension level given that I am somewhat new to this hobby. This all started for me because I bought an outrigger that came totally set-up with everything but the engine. The gentleman that I got it from was amazing in his generosity, but at the same time, he has given me a whole new learning challenge to embark upon as he included in the boat a servo-controlled remote needle. I believe the engine he had in the boat was a CMB .45, and if I'm not mistaken, I think that engine comes stock with a remote needle set-up.

I am now installing a OS .46 VX-M (it's all I've got) and am attempting to make use of this new fuel mixture technology which is already in the boat and to which I have no experience. The feedback so far in this thread is outstanding, but needless to say, I still sit here perplexed and wondering if maybe I should just remove the remote fuel mixture set-up until my rc boating expertise matures a little more. Then again, I hear all of you more experienced rc boaters talking about the advantages of being able to have the "perfect needle" and to be able to do it without having to bring the boat ashore 10 times for adjustments, and I can't help but to want to possess this elevated rc boating skill. I don't think it's a case of just wanting to keep up with the Jones'. I think it would be a huge advantage, and why not learn it now?

The problem is that I don't know where to actually begin. Oh I think I've figured out how to route the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the remote needle and from there to the carb, but now I have to figure out how to put the remote needle into motion. I have an Airtronics MX-3S tx and the auxiliary has a "high" and a "low" position on the switch. The servo is hooked up to the remote needle, but when I move between the high and low switch positions, the servo motion to the remote needle is huge. Certainly this much movement by the remote needle is not correct. Now if I leave the auxiliary switch in either the high or low position, the only other way to get the servo to move is to utilize the EPA setting. In the EPA setting, I can get smaller incremental movement by using the "plus/minus" capability on the tx, but is this the correct way to move the remote needle,a dn if so, which setting should I start with...the high or low?

Additionally there is a thumb screw on the remote needle. Where is that supposed to be set to begin? Please don't tell me I need a flow meter to set that. I'll cry. I understand that the remote needle in essence now becomes the main needle controlling fuel flow to the carb, so I have to either remove the main needle or cut the tip off of it. I noticed on some OS carbs there is a plug you can buy to close off the hole when you remove the main needle. The OS .46 VX-M does not have such a screw plug available that I can find anyway. That then means from what you all are saying that I should take out the needle and solder the orifice closed without blocking the spray bar. Ooooh that sounds way too technical for me. I like the idea of cutting the tip off the needle a lot better if that will suffice. Will it?

I guess the bottom line for me now, is just knowing where to begin with these various settings...(1) the thumb screw on the remote needle, (2) the tx auxiliary position settings, etc., etc. I'm not even sure that I am using the 3rd channel functionality of the MX-3S correctly, and the owner's manual for that tx is pitiful! I recognize that this is kid's play for you experienced rc'ers but it's maddening for a beginner like myself! Believe me, I hate to be so ignorant, but I am, and I don't know who else to turn to since I can't find any written documentation directing a beginner in how to help himself.

Thanks for reading this. I hope you are laughing but at the same time motivated to help. I WILL repay the favor to those who come behind me...if there is anyone intellectually behind me!

 

[Marty Davis]

See reply on the thread: I was thinking, Mixture Control.

 

[Don Ferrette]

I am totally confused. Everyone seems to be calling the remote mixture control a needle. There is only one needle and one mixture control in the topic. I dont think anyone is using two needles.
A remote needle would be simply a needle with a servo arm on it. A mixture control would be the barrel or ball type valve before the main needle.

There's been too many blank statements and off topic discussion to make heads or tails out of the original question. Can anyone clear this up?

The remote needle or 3rd channel needle becomes your main needle. You can have a remotely mounted needle that is not servo controlled but just manually adjusted. There is only one main needle and it is either the original carb mounted needle, a remotely mounted manual needle or a 3rd channel controlled needle that can either be remotely mounted or in some cases (like on an OS9B) directly on the carb. If you choose to run a remotely mounted needle you remove & cap off the original main needle on the carb. Regardless of which one you choose for your main needle it's function is fuel mixture control. B)

Don, I started this thread, and I'm not embarrassed to share that it's quickly gotten over my comprehension level given that I am somewhat new to this hobby. This all started for me because I bought an outrigger that came totally set-up with everything but the engine. The gentleman that I got it from was amazing in his generosity, but at the same time, he has given me a whole new learning challenge to embark upon as he included in the boat a servo-controlled remote needle. I believe the engine he had in the boat was a CMB .45, and if I'm not mistaken, I think that engine comes stock with a remote needle set-up.

I am now installing a OS .46 VX-M (it's all I've got) and am attempting to make use of this new fuel mixture technology which is already in the boat and to which I have no experience. The feedback so far in this thread is outstanding, but needless to say, I still sit here perplexed and wondering if maybe I should just remove the remote fuel mixture set-up until my rc boating expertise matures a little more. Then again, I hear all of you more experienced rc boaters talking about the advantages of being able to have the "perfect needle" and to be able to do it without having to bring the boat ashore 10 times for adjustments, and I can't help but to want to possess this elevated rc boating skill. I don't think it's a case of just wanting to keep up with the Jones'. I think it would be a huge advantage, and why not learn it now?

The problem is that I don't know where to actually begin. Oh I think I've figured out how to route the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the remote needle and from there to the carb, but now I have to figure out how to put the remote needle into motion. I have an Airtronics MX-3S tx and the auxiliary has a "high" and a "low" position on the switch. The servo is hooked up to the remote needle, but when I move between the high and low switch positions, the servo motion to the remote needle is huge. Certainly this much movement by the remote needle is not correct. Now if I leave the auxiliary switch in either the high or low position, the only other way to get the servo to move is to utilize the EPA setting. In the EPA setting, I can get smaller incremental movement by using the "plus/minus" capability on the tx, but is this the correct way to move the remote needle,a dn if so, which setting should I start with...the high or low?

Additionally there is a thumb screw on the remote needle. Where is that supposed to be set to begin? Please don't tell me I need a flow meter to set that. I'll cry. I understand that the remote needle in essence now becomes the main needle controlling fuel flow to the carb, so I have to either remove the main needle or cut the tip off of it. I noticed on some OS carbs there is a plug you can buy to close off the hole when you remove the main needle. The OS .46 VX-M does not have such a screw plug available that I can find anyway. That then means from what you all are saying that I should take out the needle and solder the orifice closed without blocking the spray bar. Ooooh that sounds way too technical for me. I like the idea of cutting the tip off the needle a lot better if that will suffice. Will it?

I guess the bottom line for me now, is just knowing where to begin with these various settings...(1) the thumb screw on the remote needle, (2) the tx auxiliary position settings, etc., etc. I'm not even sure that I am using the 3rd channel functionality of the MX-3S correctly, and the owner's manual for that tx is pitiful! I recognize that this is kid's play for you experienced rc'ers but it's maddening for a beginner like myself! Believe me, I hate to be so ignorant, but I am, and I don't know who else to turn to since I can't find any written documentation directing a beginner in how to help himself.

Thanks for reading this. I hope you are laughing but at the same time motivated to help. I WILL repay the favor to those who come behind me...if there is anyone intellectually behind me!

Pete I just sent you a p/m with my home phone #, give me a call tomorrow evening after 5pm EST, it'll be way easier to talk you thru it over the phone & I promise to do my very best to try to make as clear as possible. Believe it or not, I'm not very good at typing anything even remotely fast. :blink:

 

[moparbarn]

I am totally confused. Everyone seems to be calling the remote mixture control a needle. There is only one needle and one mixture control in the topic. I dont think anyone is using two needles.
A remote needle would be simply a needle with a servo arm on it. A mixture control would be the barrel or ball type valve before the main needle.

There's been too many blank statements and off topic discussion to make heads or tails out of the original question. Can anyone clear this up?

The remote needle or 3rd channel needle becomes your main needle. You can have a remotely mounted needle that is not servo controlled but just manually adjusted. There is only one main needle and it is either the original carb mounted needle, a remotely mounted manual needle or a 3rd channel controlled needle that can either be remotely mounted or in some cases (like on an OS9B) directly on the carb. If you choose to run a remotely mounted needle you remove & cap off the original main needle on the carb. Regardless of which one you choose for your main needle it's function is fuel mixture control. B)

Don, I started this thread, and I'm not embarrassed to share that it's quickly gotten over my comprehension level given that I am somewhat new to this hobby. This all started for me because I bought an outrigger that came totally set-up with everything but the engine. The gentleman that I got it from was amazing in his generosity, but at the same time, he has given me a whole new learning challenge to embark upon as he included in the boat a servo-controlled remote needle. I believe the engine he had in the boat was a CMB .45, and if I'm not mistaken, I think that engine comes stock with a remote needle set-up.

I am now installing a OS .46 VX-M (it's all I've got) and am attempting to make use of this new fuel mixture technology which is already in the boat and to which I have no experience. The feedback so far in this thread is outstanding, but needless to say, I still sit here perplexed and wondering if maybe I should just remove the remote fuel mixture set-up until my rc boating expertise matures a little more. Then again, I hear all of you more experienced rc boaters talking about the advantages of being able to have the "perfect needle" and to be able to do it without having to bring the boat ashore 10 times for adjustments, and I can't help but to want to possess this elevated rc boating skill. I don't think it's a case of just wanting to keep up with the Jones'. I think it would be a huge advantage, and why not learn it now?

The problem is that I don't know where to actually begin. Oh I think I've figured out how to route the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the remote needle and from there to the carb, but now I have to figure out how to put the remote needle into motion. I have an Airtronics MX-3S tx and the auxiliary has a "high" and a "low" position on the switch. The servo is hooked up to the remote needle, but when I move between the high and low switch positions, the servo motion to the remote needle is huge. Certainly this much movement by the remote needle is not correct. Now if I leave the auxiliary switch in either the high or low position, the only other way to get the servo to move is to utilize the EPA setting. In the EPA setting, I can get smaller incremental movement by using the "plus/minus" capability on the tx, but is this the correct way to move the remote needle,a dn if so, which setting should I start with...the high or low?

Additionally there is a thumb screw on the remote needle. Where is that supposed to be set to begin? Please don't tell me I need a flow meter to set that. I'll cry. I understand that the remote needle in essence now becomes the main needle controlling fuel flow to the carb, so I have to either remove the main needle or cut the tip off of it. I noticed on some OS carbs there is a plug you can buy to close off the hole when you remove the main needle. The OS .46 VX-M does not have such a screw plug available that I can find anyway. That then means from what you all are saying that I should take out the needle and solder the orifice closed without blocking the spray bar. Ooooh that sounds way too technical for me. I like the idea of cutting the tip off the needle a lot better if that will suffice. Will it?

I guess the bottom line for me now, is just knowing where to begin with these various settings...(1) the thumb screw on the remote needle, (2) the tx auxiliary position settings, etc., etc. I'm not even sure that I am using the 3rd channel functionality of the MX-3S correctly, and the owner's manual for that tx is pitiful! I recognize that this is kid's play for you experienced rc'ers but it's maddening for a beginner like myself! Believe me, I hate to be so ignorant, but I am, and I don't know who else to turn to since I can't find any written documentation directing a beginner in how to help himself.

Thanks for reading this. I hope you are laughing but at the same time motivated to help. I WILL repay the favor to those who come behind me...if there is anyone intellectually behind me!

pete, if i'm not behind you, i'm not very far in front, for sure. particularly on this subject. thanx for asking this question.

 

[Scott Norris]

I am totally confused. Everyone seems to be calling the remote mixture control a needle. There is only one needle and one mixture control in the topic. I dont think anyone is using two needles.
A remote needle would be simply a needle with a servo arm on it. A mixture control would be the barrel or ball type valve before the main needle.

There's been too many blank statements and off topic discussion to make heads or tails out of the original question. Can anyone clear this up?

The remote needle or 3rd channel needle becomes your main needle. You can have a remotely mounted needle that is not servo controlled but just manually adjusted. There is only one main needle and it is either the original carb mounted needle, a remotely mounted manual needle or a 3rd channel controlled needle that can either be remotely mounted or in some cases (like on an OS9B) directly on the carb. If you choose to run a remotely mounted needle you remove & cap off the original main needle on the carb. Regardless of which one you choose for your main needle it's function is fuel mixture control. B)

Don, I started this thread, and I'm not embarrassed to share that it's quickly gotten over my comprehension level given that I am somewhat new to this hobby. This all started for me because I bought an outrigger that came totally set-up with everything but the engine. The gentleman that I got it from was amazing in his generosity, but at the same time, he has given me a whole new learning challenge to embark upon as he included in the boat a servo-controlled remote needle. I believe the engine he had in the boat was a CMB .45, and if I'm not mistaken, I think that engine comes stock with a remote needle set-up.

I am now installing a OS .46 VX-M (it's all I've got) and am attempting to make use of this new fuel mixture technology which is already in the boat and to which I have no experience. The feedback so far in this thread is outstanding, but needless to say, I still sit here perplexed and wondering if maybe I should just remove the remote fuel mixture set-up until my rc boating expertise matures a little more. Then again, I hear all of you more experienced rc boaters talking about the advantages of being able to have the "perfect needle" and to be able to do it without having to bring the boat ashore 10 times for adjustments, and I can't help but to want to possess this elevated rc boating skill. I don't think it's a case of just wanting to keep up with the Jones'. I think it would be a huge advantage, and why not learn it now?

The problem is that I don't know where to actually begin. Oh I think I've figured out how to route the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the remote needle and from there to the carb, but now I have to figure out how to put the remote needle into motion. I have an Airtronics MX-3S tx and the auxiliary has a "high" and a "low" position on the switch. The servo is hooked up to the remote needle, but when I move between the high and low switch positions, the servo motion to the remote needle is huge. Certainly this much movement by the remote needle is not correct. Now if I leave the auxiliary switch in either the high or low position, the only other way to get the servo to move is to utilize the EPA setting. In the EPA setting, I can get smaller incremental movement by using the "plus/minus" capability on the tx, but is this the correct way to move the remote needle,a dn if so, which setting should I start with...the high or low?

Additionally there is a thumb screw on the remote needle. Where is that supposed to be set to begin? Please don't tell me I need a flow meter to set that. I'll cry. I understand that the remote needle in essence now becomes the main needle controlling fuel flow to the carb, so I have to either remove the main needle or cut the tip off of it. I noticed on some OS carbs there is a plug you can buy to close off the hole when you remove the main needle. The OS .46 VX-M does not have such a screw plug available that I can find anyway. That then means from what you all are saying that I should take out the needle and solder the orifice closed without blocking the spray bar. Ooooh that sounds way too technical for me. I like the idea of cutting the tip off the needle a lot better if that will suffice. Will it?

I guess the bottom line for me now, is just knowing where to begin with these various settings...(1) the thumb screw on the remote needle, (2) the tx auxiliary position settings, etc., etc. I'm not even sure that I am using the 3rd channel functionality of the MX-3S correctly, and the owner's manual for that tx is pitiful! I recognize that this is kid's play for you experienced rc'ers but it's maddening for a beginner like myself! Believe me, I hate to be so ignorant, but I am, and I don't know who else to turn to since I can't find any written documentation directing a beginner in how to help himself.

Thanks for reading this. I hope you are laughing but at the same time motivated to help. I WILL repay the favor to those who come behind me...if there is anyone intellectually behind me!

pete, if i'm not behind you, i'm not very far in front, for sure. particularly on this subject. thanx for asking this question.

Sounds like Don should set up a Conference Call tonight.

 

[piper_chuck]

I am totally confused. Everyone seems to be calling the remote mixture control a needle. There is only one needle and one mixture control in the topic. I dont think anyone is using two needles.
A remote needle would be simply a needle with a servo arm on it. A mixture control would be the barrel or ball type valve before the main needle.

There's been too many blank statements and off topic discussion to make heads or tails out of the original question. Can anyone clear this up?

The remote needle or 3rd channel needle becomes your main needle. You can have a remotely mounted needle that is not servo controlled but just manually adjusted. There is only one main needle and it is either the original carb mounted needle, a remotely mounted manual needle or a 3rd channel controlled needle that can either be remotely mounted or in some cases (like on an OS9B) directly on the carb. If you choose to run a remotely mounted needle you remove & cap off the original main needle on the carb. Regardless of which one you choose for your main needle it's function is fuel mixture control. B)

Don, I started this thread, and I'm not embarrassed to share that it's quickly gotten over my comprehension level given that I am somewhat new to this hobby. This all started for me because I bought an outrigger that came totally set-up with everything but the engine. The gentleman that I got it from was amazing in his generosity, but at the same time, he has given me a whole new learning challenge to embark upon as he included in the boat a servo-controlled remote needle. I believe the engine he had in the boat was a CMB .45, and if I'm not mistaken, I think that engine comes stock with a remote needle set-up.

I am now installing a OS .46 VX-M (it's all I've got) and am attempting to make use of this new fuel mixture technology which is already in the boat and to which I have no experience. The feedback so far in this thread is outstanding, but needless to say, I still sit here perplexed and wondering if maybe I should just remove the remote fuel mixture set-up until my rc boating expertise matures a little more. Then again, I hear all of you more experienced rc boaters talking about the advantages of being able to have the "perfect needle" and to be able to do it without having to bring the boat ashore 10 times for adjustments, and I can't help but to want to possess this elevated rc boating skill. I don't think it's a case of just wanting to keep up with the Jones'. I think it would be a huge advantage, and why not learn it now?

The problem is that I don't know where to actually begin. Oh I think I've figured out how to route the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the remote needle and from there to the carb, but now I have to figure out how to put the remote needle into motion. I have an Airtronics MX-3S tx and the auxiliary has a "high" and a "low" position on the switch. The servo is hooked up to the remote needle, but when I move between the high and low switch positions, the servo motion to the remote needle is huge. Certainly this much movement by the remote needle is not correct. Now if I leave the auxiliary switch in either the high or low position, the only other way to get the servo to move is to utilize the EPA setting. In the EPA setting, I can get smaller incremental movement by using the "plus/minus" capability on the tx, but is this the correct way to move the remote needle,a dn if so, which setting should I start with...the high or low?

Additionally there is a thumb screw on the remote needle. Where is that supposed to be set to begin? Please don't tell me I need a flow meter to set that. I'll cry. I understand that the remote needle in essence now becomes the main needle controlling fuel flow to the carb, so I have to either remove the main needle or cut the tip off of it. I noticed on some OS carbs there is a plug you can buy to close off the hole when you remove the main needle. The OS .46 VX-M does not have such a screw plug available that I can find anyway. That then means from what you all are saying that I should take out the needle and solder the orifice closed without blocking the spray bar. Ooooh that sounds way too technical for me. I like the idea of cutting the tip off the needle a lot better if that will suffice. Will it?

I guess the bottom line for me now, is just knowing where to begin with these various settings...(1) the thumb screw on the remote needle, (2) the tx auxiliary position settings, etc., etc. I'm not even sure that I am using the 3rd channel functionality of the MX-3S correctly, and the owner's manual for that tx is pitiful! I recognize that this is kid's play for you experienced rc'ers but it's maddening for a beginner like myself! Believe me, I hate to be so ignorant, but I am, and I don't know who else to turn to since I can't find any written documentation directing a beginner in how to help himself.

Thanks for reading this. I hope you are laughing but at the same time motivated to help. I WILL repay the favor to those who come behind me...if there is anyone intellectually behind me!

pete, if i'm not behind you, i'm not very far in front, for sure. particularly on this subject. thanx for asking this question.

Sounds like Don should set up a Conference Call tonight.

Why not use the chat facility that's available here?

 

[Don Ferrette]

pete, if i'm not behind you, i'm not very far in front, for sure. particularly on this subject. thanx for asking this question.

Sounds like Don should set up a Conference Call tonight.

Why not use the chat facility that's available here?

Because I am a 2 finger typer.

 

[piper_chuck]

pete, if i'm not behind you, i'm not very far in front, for sure. particularly on this subject. thanx for asking this question.

Sounds like Don should set up a Conference Call tonight.

Why not use the chat facility that's available here?

Because I am a 2 finger typer.

Maybe you need to get something like this: http://www.pricecastle.com/ibmviavoice.html

 

[Doug Ashby]

Another new guy question---

Can you open the needle on the carb all the way, then use the remote needle to control the flow?

Do you have toremove the needle on the carb?

If so, how do you cap the hole in the carb after you take the needle out?

 

[steve wood]

every motor is differant. some, like the nova rossi, you have to remove the spray bar and grind back the square hole till its flat, grind off the big thread where the needle screws on, and solder that shut. then i turn the spray bar assembly so the inlet is pointed in the right direction then press it back in. other motors you can grind off the needleafter its screwed in tight. others you can remove the needle and install a screw to plug the hole.

hey don, i figured you typed like a hundred words a minute, see as much writing as you do on here :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Pete Markese]

Well am i ever disappointed! I just found out that my tx will NOT support a 3rd channel fuel mixture control as it is NOT proportional in its functionality. I have an Airtronics MX-3S and it does have an "auxiliary" 3rd channel that is in essence nothing more than an "off/on" switch. I guess this works on some applications but certainly not for a fuel mixture control application. I thought that maybe I could use the EPA setting in the "auxiliary" channel to move the fuel mixture control servo, but after talking with Tech Support at Airtronics, I think I'd be playing with fire trying to do that, and for sure everyone at the pond would not want to be in the water with me while I was experimenting with it. So that's that!

THANK YOU to everyone who was so generous in their sharing on this topic for me, especially Marty Davis and Don Ferrette who offered personal hand-holding. I have learned a lot, and once again have grown tremendously as a result of it. I will never cease to be amazed at the warm and friendly openness of the people I continue to meet in this rc boating hobby. For now this newly learned skill will have to be put on hold.

Does anyone out there have a good used Airtronics MX-11 for sale? If so please let me know. Again, thank you!