Receiver on/off switches.

[TimD]

Thought I'd start a new thread on the dreaded on/off switch. The cause of many a broken boat. :angry:

What is everyones preference on types of switches and how / where to mount them?

I'm sure this could be handy for anyone with a new boat being built out there...

 

[nitrotoys]

I have had good luck with the normal push-pull switches, with the rubber gromet cover that goes over them. ( 3 screws)

I also have used the speedmaster switch, where you have to lift up to get off.

Seems water proof to me.

Tom

 

[Climate Models]

These are my favorite.

Never leak, no question about on or off, easy to mount, and cheap.

Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com

 

[boaterbill]

I use the one with three leads, extra lead for charing the baats in the box, drill a hole on the lid, so you can pull the lead out, put a piece of radio box tape to cover the hole after charging. I buy them from Tower, on the switch mounting bracket drill a small hole, oppositive from where the on/off , unscrew the handle off the braket attached a small coil spring from that point to where you drilled the hole, so there is some preassure to hold the switch in the on position. On the outside use a clothes wood pin to hold the switch on the off position, ready to use , remove clothes pin. and have some fun. I've use this set up on all my boats, past ten yrs, no problemo, You don't have to remove tape from the lid, you can also drill 2 holes on the lid, for ventilation, In case you see moisture inside the lid, Set boat in the sun, remove tape from boith holes, untill droplets are gone, retape the two holesn. Mount the switch so you can reach it the esiest, I mount mine in the front to the left, or in the middle in the front of the boat, watch the pipe, you can always use a forcepts to access the handle

Bill

 

[TimD]

Hey Bill,

How are you doing?

Tim.

 

[boaterbill]

Hi Tim,

Doing OK, went back to work, need some excersice. Bought the new 7.5 Speedmaster Mono, Will put together as soon as it comes.

How things with you?

Bill

 

[boaterbill]

Peter,

Thats the one I use, with the three leads.

Bill

 

[Mick J]

I personally make my own up with a toggle switch, servo extension leads (obviously cut in two), and a waterproof boot for the toggle. After I have soldered it all up (and tested), I encapsulate it in 5min epoxy for good measure. Works fine for me, and cheap as chips as well, and most inportantly nil failures to date. Another good point worth noting is that you can save on space as these micro toggle switch don't take up as much room in the radio box

Johno

 

[MarkScott]

This is the switch used on all my boats.

The toggle needs to be pulled outward to allow movement for on/off.. Waterproof to boot. As Bill does, drill a hole big enough to allow the 3rd wire so battery can be charge without removing tape.

Position of switch have been on the side, top, front or behind the radio box. For my tunnels, the switch is either on side or front. Side mount allows a quick turn off.

Lately, there is no love with the battery leads. Since I use an aftermarket on/off switch, there's a need to hard wire leads in. Currently using Deans #1112 plug for the battery to switch connection. Here's a shot..

or better yet

Tower Hobbies - Deans #1112

Mark.

 

[tracerbob]

Not sure where to buy them but these were a "gift" from the U.S. NAVY.

 

[tracerbob]

Another shot.

 

[Joe Warren]

Most electrical supply houses sell SELECTA SWITCH (Micro) Brand Switches. A double pole Double throw is the best. Solder the post across to each other. This gives two sets of contacts for the battery voltage to flow thru. Selecta Switch also sells a very good rubber boot for these Micro switches.

 

[TimD]

Good stuff so far guys. Keep it going!!!

I'll chuck in a few things that have not come up so far.

1. the dubro switch mount as per peter's pic can leak. Easily fixed with a Bru-line pushrod seal over it.

2. the factory supplied switches usually come with a black plastic casing. Bin it as they hold moisture in and having it removed makes it easier to check the solder joints on the switch. I have seen the joints fail. Also,if the copper wire has a black colour in it - get rid of it.

There is an alternative to using a switch and that is to have two metal screws protruding to the outside of the box and linking them together with a "BUS BAR" to close the circuit. No switch contacts to fail! I believe AB puts these on his boats.

I have used factory switches mounted in the lids with a rubber moulded boot from a 1/8 scale buggy over it for years - worked great, but unfortunately I've run out of them Going to the 2 position / 2 pole toggle switches for now....unless someone convinces me otherwise!

 

[Lake S.P.O.R.T.]

I run outboards mainly and always used the du-bro switch mount through the radio box and the cowling. On the latest boat I built I did something different and it works great. I mounted the on/off switch that comes with the radio in the servo tray. Drilled a small hole through the square switch slider and bent a 2-56 rod 90 deg. on the very end to hook into it. This rod exits the rear of the radio box through a waterproof seal just like the steering rods and goes back through a tiny hole in the transom and sticks out the transom about a half inch next to the motor mount. Of course it is set up for push "on". This way the switch rod does not have to go through the cowling. The rod is supported well enough that it will not come out of the switch slider on its own. It has to be forced out if you want to remove the rod from the switch. There will be a pic of it up soon.

Mark

 

[Ron Olson]

One trick that some of the Gas boaters use is to run the wires outside of the box to a blade fuse connector then put a fuse in to turn the reciever on.

 

[bzubee]

Tracerbob dod you have an NSN for that switch I can look the manufacture up on Fed log?

 

[[email protected]]

So Ron, if you drop the fuse or forget to bring one you basically can't run your gas boat??? Propbably looks cooler than it is but you can't beat a trusty on/off switch don't you think??

As for my tunnel hulls I set mine on to the radio box lid and add a new 2-56 rod so it's long enough to go through the cowling this way I can turn it on/off with out having to take the cowl off. One other thing I do to the plastic holder for the on/off switch is cut that extra plastic part off with a dremel. This way it doesn't take up extra space for big batteries on the radio box.

 

[bzubee]

No you take a penny and put it between the contacts like at home!

 

[Ron Olson]

Well Rod, you'd run to your boat hauler and pull a fuse out of the fuse box!

I grind the bottom off of the Du-Bro switch mounts myself. There isn't a lot of room in some of my radio boxes. One other thing that I was looking at was the waterproof switch covers that they're using on R/C trucks to help seal the topside of the switches. The bottom could be Gooped for sealing.

 

[tracerbob]

I'll Try to find out. These were given to me by an E.T. (electronic tech) in one of the other shops who happens to run boats. On one side of the switch is the word "ALCO" then MTA and below that, 206N. Hope this helps.