Hi Terry,
I hear you, very difficult to hold props to work them. Now you take the hub and bore away and it doesn't leave you much to hold tight and control. Your set is about as good as I've seen. I used to regrind the O.D. on the counterbores to get the size I needed. When I did the 4 bladed props I used two 2 bladed props, I cut the hub halfway down from the top on one prop and halfway up from the drive dog side of the other and silver brazed them together. I had overbored the I.D. and made a sleeve to keep them centered and a fixture to make sure they were indexed 90 degress apart. Neat Stuff!!
Thanks, John
Lol! Yup, I'm very lucky that way, and you know how I like to tinker...Terry, you have WAYYYYY too much time on your hands!!!!!! LOL
Seriously though, this is really cool stuff!
Steve Ball
After thirty years in the industry I can confidently tell you a piece of paper does not make you a toolmaker .Sometimes I wish I had been a machinist.
Me too!
Yup, kinda nasty lookin.Excellent work Terry. If you want that cleaned up let me know. It's a long winter.
Terry wins the... "High Tech Canadian Red-Neck" award... Roy would be proud... just kidding beautiful work AGAIN Terry.
Now that's funny........Terry nice machines BTW and great work. What is the use for the props being modified?Terry wins the... "High Tech Canadian Red-Neck" award... Roy would be proud... just kidding beautiful work AGAIN Terry.
Lol! Here's what we'll be up to soon: :lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMdASvBr8bU&feature=player_embedded
This (well it's big brother actually):What is the use for the props being modified?
Get yourself a ticket to E-City or Legg Lake Terry! 1 week and 2 weeks away.Yup, kinda nasty lookin.
Hope this wind settles down, I wanna go run it!
Oh ye of little faith! :lol:Terry
Good luck on getting the blades to stay on BECU.
Dave
"If you always do what you always did,thats a shame Terry, after so much work!
Thanks John, my toolmaker buddy said the same. The braze flowed very well once I got the right temp, just didn't go right into the joint like I thought, tinning both parts will make sure it does! Did my usual thinning job but will leave a fillet next time...Hi Terry,
Bummer! You probably already know this but I'll add it anyway. Your setup acts as great big heat sink and it may pull heat faster than you tought. When you redo your brazing bring the heat up slow so the fixture comes up along with it. When brazing the base metal will be cherry red or almost depending on what temp brazing rod you have. Brazing rod flows to the hottest spot so you can sweat it in much like copper water joints only at a higher temp. It is possible to also over heat the rod and have it oxidize leaving a weaker joint. If it were me I'd consider building up a larger filet at the hub on both the front and back and leaving it there for added strength. Another thought would be to contact a welder and see if they could TIG weld it.
Thanks, John
Sounds like a plan, the braze flows around 1100F, I'll put the whole thing in my kiln at 1000F for a couple hours then go at it.dumb question.. what about preheating the jig in a oven ahead of time and then filling the blade terry? like john was talking about..
any idea how ernie l used to do his?
chris
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